RustyNavs Tourer

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very nice rusty
will look good with sliders
what loads are you carrying??
my efs constant load springs are flat @2600 kg
 
very nice rusty
will look good with sliders
what loads are you carrying??
my efs constant load springs are flat @2600 kg

Josh - did it change your ride height at all?

Josh - Yes it did. i know have 805 in the rears and 790 up front. so 15mm difference. that is empty aswell.

Sparra - atm the only thing in the back is the dual battery box and a mil crate with few bits in it. SO empty. plus the weight of the canopy. i was talking to the sax suspension guy and he said he had weights of over 1tonne in it and the 1st+3rd stage still didnt touch the 2nd stage spring.

also put my payment down on sliders tonight. scotty is saying a couple of weeks before he finishes them and they are delivered. fine by me for his quality work.


Rusty
 
i turned the rancho shocks up to setting 5 and drive home from the rents. i tell you what these springs and shocks are amazing. everything i use to feel jarring my back and making it a super uncomfortable ride home is now SMOOTH. i would be more then happy for people to test drive the car before they made a purchase of these. Yet to test them on the offroad stuff but i will garantee they will flex nicely. and the top stage spring will miss the chassis.

any queries please contact me

RustyNav

Good to hear that you're happy with the results...... Looking forward to hear how they go offroad + loaded up.

Just wondering if u ran it up on diagonal Car Ramps to check your rear Springs under Compression and droop? Just curious as to how close the helper spring would come to your chassis under compression?
 
Good to hear that you're happy with the results...... Looking forward to hear how they go offroad + loaded up.

Just wondering if u ran it up on diagonal Car Ramps to check your rear Springs under Compression and droop? Just curious as to how close the helper spring would come to your chassis under compression?

na no checks yet mate. i live on a hilly block so ill try get some shots tomoz
 
Rusty , what did you do about adjusting the rear brake proportioning valve with this lift ?
 
Rusty , what did you do about adjusting the rear brake proportioning valve with this lift ?

For what reason and on which lift would it be done?

Bodylift? It's attached to the chassis so it doesn't move
Suspension? It doesn't move far enough for it to be worth while undoing and adjusting.
 
RustyNav09 said:
For what reason and on which lift would it be done?

Bodylift? It's attached to the chassis so it doesn't move
Suspension? It doesn't move far enough for it to be worth while undoing and adjusting.

Actually, it's very much worth doing, it's the valve that balance's the rear and front brake loading. If you don't adjust it for the increase in lift then your back braise wont come on as strongly.

This'll have a few effects of the vehicle, one, and mostly noticeably, it'll nosedive a lot sharper when you slam on the anchors.

Long term, it'll wear out your upper control arm bushes (true story - it's what happened to mine) and wear out your front brakes a lot faster as well.

For 30seconds of work, it's worth while doing.
 
RustyNav09 said:
To make sure we are talking about the same adjuster. It's the big spring between the chassis and rear axle.

Yup, that's the one. The brake proportioning valve. By not adjusting it properly your forcing the front end brakes to do more work, thus wearing them and the UCA bushes out quicker.

And I'll need to have another look tonight, but I'm pretty sure mine is connected to the underside of the tray?? Which means it definitely needs adjusting after a body lift.
 
Yeh sweet. See mine is connected to the chassis rail that the spare wheel is sitting on I think. I will adjust it but which way do I adjust it. Do I move it back towards the rear or push it forward towards the front?
 
The idea is that when the car loads up, it loads up the rear brakes more, so from memory, the spring should return to an uncompressed (or unextended) state under load. If you get someone to bounce down on the rear while you look a the valve, you'll see which way it needs to go when it's under load

I think I found that I had to move mine towards the front of the vehicle. And I adjusted mine so that it's pretty much doing nothing now, so I should have maximum braking in the rear.
 
You can see mine in a couple of the shots I took. Runs directly near the exhaust and is mounted to the chassis rail on thy passenger side. I might shift it forward about 10mm and just test it out
 
alright. so the wife is super impressed about the comfort of the springs. had some spare time sarvo to get the car onto the hill in may yard. remembering i have a 30mm bodylift and the springs aren fully compressed or flexed. also tyres are the 265/70/16 not the 75 series muddies

IMAG0519.jpg

IMAG0515.jpg

IMAG0520.jpg


pretty happy with it and when i load it up fro touring i can move th helper spring up to the next hole to lift the car back into a taller stance to take the load.
 
So springs are done. I have a ctek d250s dual being delivered for the battery management and charging and also I just order my long ranger 125l tank. Yay finally ordered it Hehe. I found long ranger had better quality and was highly recommended by everyone I spoke to. So now its time to wait
 
RustyNav09 said:
So springs are done. I have a ctek d250s dual being delivered for the battery management and charging and also I just order my long ranger 125l tank. Yay finally ordered it Hehe. I found long ranger had better quality and was highly recommended by everyone I spoke to. So now its time to wait

Dropping big dollars ATM Russ! Nice to see!
How much is the tank setting you back?
 
$1460+fuel cost on the day. Same price at all arb stores

Oh also a set of scottybobcats sliders are paid for and soon to be on there way.

New position with new paycheck
 
Is that pay check
The form of a winning pay check or something? Haha looking the goods
 
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