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How much current are you ripping out of the batteries Nathan. Any idea. I realize the longer you weld for the more amps your taking. But im curious.
 
How much current are you ripping out of the batteries Nathan. Any idea. I realize the longer you weld for the more amps your taking. But im curious.

not exactly sure mate, i wouldnt recommend welding up a full chassis lol but to zap a tie rod together with a bolt laid onto it or something similar it will get you home.

here is a you tube vid on how to.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PV5oLPLUzrM
 
not exactly sure mate, i wouldnt recommend welding up a full chassis lol but to zap a tie rod together with a bolt laid onto it or something similar it will get you home.

here is a you tube vid on how to.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PV5oLPLUzrM

Thanks. I had seen it done before on tv. But was always curious about if you weld something which gets you going again. But then you stuck with a flat battery. Lol
suppose its a chance you would have take
 
Thanks. I had seen it done before on tv. But was always curious about if you weld something which gets you going again. But then you stuck with a flat battery. Lol
suppose its a chance you would have take

yeah mate that is a chance, but if you keep it short as possible and as we were lucky to have plenty of cars and most had dual battery setups we were confident we could get everyone started again.
as it was we popped the batteries back and the started the cars no probs.
 
Thanks. I had seen it done before on tv. But was always curious about if you weld something which gets you going again. But then you stuck with a flat battery. Lol
suppose its a chance you would have take
I think the bigger issue would be if you only had the one battery... having 2 it will spread the discharge across both of them, but should really draw anymore than cranking the motor I wouldn't have thought....
 
I think the bigger issue would be if you only had the one battery... having 2 it will spread the discharge across both of them, but should really draw anymore than cranking the motor I wouldn't have thought....

you cant do it with one, you need to have at least 24volt and to get that you need to use two 12v batteries as shown in my crappy drawing.

it actually works better with more then two but you can do it with two good enough to get a weld going
 
you cant do it with one, you need to have at least 24volt and to get that you need to use two 12v batteries as shown in my crappy drawing.

it actually works better with more then two but you can do it with two good enough to get a weld going
That's what I was getting at.... 😕
I'd just didn't come out that way. .. if you aren't with another car or haven't got access to 2 batteries you're in trouble....
 
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Oh its just that you said "it would be an issue if you only had one battery"
and i thought you were thinking it could be done with one battery, and if you only had one battery you wouldn't be welding anyway.

sorry for the confusion, carry on lol
 
emergency tie rod assembly for d22

Here is a 1st attempt at an emergency tie rod assembly that you could safely drive on until you got home and bought a new one.
do you think it will work?
Soild bar drilled through to fit 1/2" threaded rod with a 40mm recess drilled at 21mm on both sides for the tie rods to slip into as to give it extra strength.
Just gotta weld it all together now
 

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Looks the goods... be strong as all hell. If you didn't need to adjust toe from them that would be a great setup for strength in general...
 
I was wondering if you could build an adjustable drag link, but you wouldn't be able to adjust toe on each wheel separately, which would be a problem... it's just that rie rod adjuster that breaks from hitting the bump stop mount on the chassis...
 
here is some more pics
Cut 5 mm slots x4 in each end so can get a better weld to tie rod
 

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I was wondering if you could build an adjustable drag link, but you wouldn't be able to adjust toe on each wheel separately, which would be a problem... it's just that rie rod adjuster that breaks from hitting the bump stop mount on the chassis...

Yeah its a weak point as seen on our last trip with sams but this link will work better than my sidchrome spanner if its ever needed
 
That's thrown some more food for thought in then... I wonder what the strength would be like with that sleeve welded to the rod in the middle, possibly by drilling some holes or cutting slits in the center. Without welding it to the tie rods I reckon it should still have a fair lot of strength in it and be adjustable.....
 
That's thrown some more food for thought in then... I wonder what the strength would be like with that sleeve welded to the rod in the middle, possibly by drilling some holes or cutting slits in the center. Without welding it to the tie rods I reckon it should still have a fair lot of strength in it and be adjustable.....

I did think of doing that but i didnt have any left handed threaded rod..
Here is a pic of it done..just some new rubber boots and a re grease needed now
 

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so its just the adjuster that breaks?


it's just that rie rod adjuster that breaks from hitting the bump stop mount on the chassis...

are you sure it hits? maybe it breaks and then hits once the wheel is moving about freely?
it doesn't sound right that it would just hit.
 

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