The car has now been fixed. The report from Cooma diesel on the pump was that a return line restriction caused damage to a valve. It also had a lot of abrasive wear. They are claiming it was all caused by my '4WD systems' long range tank. It was full of rust as it is plain steel with no coatings or treatment and was also full of metal. I flushed the tank when I fitted it drained it again on another occasion and yet they still go heaps of fine rusty metal out of it. Noting I have never had a drop of water in the filter, but have had heaps of metal. Anyway that leads to my next issue. I was charged top dollar for the pump to be reconditioned and yet the original PCM was used as it was functioning properly, which leads to the kicker, they won't warrant the PCM as I have a remapped ECU. I am pretty pissed as a common problem I have read about is the sensors connected to the PCM or the PCM failing. The mechanic also wouldn't refit my fuel tank if I wanted any warranty on the pump.
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Good to hear that it's been fixed.
Look at it from his point of view. He's just pulled a tank out and checked it over finding it unpainted inside, rusting and letting all that crap through to the pump causing the thing to fail. If you'd done the job for him, you'd give him the same warranty and advice - "don't reconnect the thing that caused the failure!"
If he's charged a premium it's probably because he is good at what he does and can justify the charge. If he's done a good job, my advice would be to follow his.
Plastic or stainless tank ftw.
Water is in the air all around us (called "humidity"). It condenses on cold surfaces (the metal tank is a perfect example, and inside the tank, the metal sides are the ONLY surface). It will emulsify in diesel to a small degree (there are people who are experimenting with water/diesel emulsions of 20 and 40% but these require agents to do this). It's no surprise at all that rust could develop inside the tank.
Might not be exactly what you wanted to hear, but what WE wanted to hear was your car is running again!
Look at it from his point of view. He's just pulled a tank out and checked it over finding it unpainted inside, rusting and letting all that crap through to the pump causing the thing to fail. If you'd done the job for him, you'd give him the same warranty and advice - "don't reconnect the thing that caused the failure!"
If he's charged a premium it's probably because he is good at what he does and can justify the charge. If he's done a good job, my advice would be to follow his.
Plastic or stainless tank ftw.
Water is in the air all around us (called "humidity"). It condenses on cold surfaces (the metal tank is a perfect example, and inside the tank, the metal sides are the ONLY surface). It will emulsify in diesel to a small degree (there are people who are experimenting with water/diesel emulsions of 20 and 40% but these require agents to do this). It's no surprise at all that rust could develop inside the tank.
Might not be exactly what you wanted to hear, but what WE wanted to hear was your car is running again!
if it was my car, i would be contanting the guys that sold me the fuel tank. i mean if its just a metal tank rusted from inside out all the junk got picked up by the suction made their way past the fuel filter eventually (did the scheduled 40,000 kms intervals?) and ruined the pump. engineering fault from the supplier right there.
Old.Tony I agree with the majority of what you are saying. I could have written my post better. The main issue I have is not being advised in advance that the pump electronics wouldn't be covered by warranty. I advised at that the start the vehicle had a re-mapped ecu. I also expected the electronics to be replaced in the pump for the money I was paying. I probably should have come out and directly asked if it's reasonable to not replace the electronics in a Reconditioned pump.
I will be contacting the tank manufacturer to have a chat and see what they have to say.
I will be contacting the tank manufacturer to have a chat and see what they have to say.
^ two questions raised from that.
1) What on earth is wrong with the filter
2) It would be a good idea to present the case to the tank manufacturer and see what they say. I doubt they'd be happy with their product causing the failure, but I alo doubt they'd be happy to just shell out for the damage it's caused, partly because if it's rusted, it can't be near new and may be out of warranty itself, and also because they can rightly claim that your fuel filter ought to have caught particles large enough to cause damage.
I also suspect the tank supplier might do a quick bit of research and discover that the VP44 is a lemon waiting to fail and further justify their refusal to assist.
1) What on earth is wrong with the filter
2) It would be a good idea to present the case to the tank manufacturer and see what they say. I doubt they'd be happy with their product causing the failure, but I alo doubt they'd be happy to just shell out for the damage it's caused, partly because if it's rusted, it can't be near new and may be out of warranty itself, and also because they can rightly claim that your fuel filter ought to have caught particles large enough to cause damage.
I also suspect the tank supplier might do a quick bit of research and discover that the VP44 is a lemon waiting to fail and further justify their refusal to assist.
There was so much metal in the filter even after flushing the tank that the engine light came on because the water sensing float in the bottom of the filter was jammed after a couple of tanks of fuel. I will dig up the pictures showing the metal. I just assumed that the filter would do it's job and remove all the particles. Maybe if it gets too blocked it and the pump pulls hard enough the debris comes through. I am going to cut open the current filter and run a magnet through it to see if more metal is present. I have been changing the fuel filter about every 10K. The good thing is the compression is still good, with a little bit of leakage on no.4 which was missing a small amount of the ceramic glow plus tip.
fuel filter intervals on the d22 is every 40,000 kms or 24 months. 10k sounds overkill especially since it let all that crap through. its either a useless filter or way way too much rust the paper filter cant possible keep out.
Not that is has helped me I have done oil (fully synthetic Penrite) and oil filter as close to every 5k as possible. Fuel filter every 10k since long range tank install and air filter every 20k (don't see the dirt much). I have only used Nissan oil and air filters and Donaldson fuel filters. I buy in bulk usually 10 or more at a time hence the same filters.
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Sooo how much did the change over ip cost ya?
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