Hi, need some help with a 2006 D22 Navara I have. Was driven home a few weeks ago and suddenly stopped just out the front of home. Nav wont start anymore. We cranked it on and off for a bit then it eventually fired up, stayed running for about 20 seconds, then just turned off, like someone turned the key off. Read the codes and have the codes 0403 Throttle pedal position sensor, 0407 Crankshaft position sensor, 0701 Injection Pump –cam ring position sensor, 0703 Injection Pump communication line, and 0903* Engine ECU. Changed crank angle sensor, did nothing, any ideas??
D22 ZD30 Fault codes
- Thread starter Ganga35
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first thing is to clear the codes, crank, then check codes again.
kinda odd all those codes at once. i would check wiring. especially earths, but also make sure nothing eaten any cables. otherwise more likely ecu problem than to have all the other sensor fail all at the same time. hence previous post make sure its not old codes from a previous repair.
Clear codes is bridge out port 1 and 8 again when its in diagnostic mode flashing codes isnt it??
off the top of my head. yes.
Thanks, will give it a go
Ok, cleared the codes and get 0505 now, which is saying all systems normal. Still wont start
i would loosen one injection nut just a bit and see if fuel fires out when you crank. if not, pumps not injecting fuel. that could be dead pump ecu. pump reco time.
also check for any blown fuses. if i remember right check the brake light fuse, thats known to cause a no start.
also check for any blown fuses. if i remember right check the brake light fuse, thats known to cause a no start.
We tried firing it on a quick squirt of start ya bastard. As soon as we did that all the codes came back
It does sound like an electrical issue to me, too. Careful examination of the wiring looms, and cleaning of the electrical contacts (including battery terminals) would be high on my agenda.
Yeah, am going down the path of electrical wires and earths before getting to fuel pump (last resort). Found a thread here about starter motors spiking and creating these exact types of codes so I have one to try as well, my auto elecky even said he's had that type of thing happen to him on other vehicles as well, so worth a shot. Have even tried another ecu but pretty much same codes as well as some random others came up.
Random/unrelated* codes almost always mean electrical gremlins.
* Unrelated like "fuel rail overpressure" and "ABS System fault" cannot be caused by a single component failure, more likely a signal issue the ECU is having trouble handling and sometimes it's just a dirty electrical contact.
* Unrelated like "fuel rail overpressure" and "ABS System fault" cannot be caused by a single component failure, more likely a signal issue the ECU is having trouble handling and sometimes it's just a dirty electrical contact.
Ok, I am now even more confused. Cleared all codes, give primer a few pumps til hard and car starts. Turn it off, turn it back on, car starts. Run for about 30 seconds, giving it a couple of revs, let it idle for about another 30, touch pedal, car cuts out. Cranking wont fire again. Got more codes, pretty similar or if not the same as usual. Checked all electrical connections even from ecu to plugs in engine bay and sensors themselves. Checked all relays, fuses ,battery connections (even cleaned them all), Clear codes again, still wont fire. Resigned to the fact fuel pump has crapped itself. Crack injector and get someone to crank it. No fuel initially but all of a sudden after about a second, fuel appears and engine grumbles back to life. Is this just air, or is this pump just having a laugh at me?
It does sound like air could be getting in. There's an easy test: do exactly as you did above, but after the car cuts out, don't try to restart it immediately - pop the bonnet and try priming the system. If the primer gets firm reasonably quickly then there's plenty of fuel and you have a reluctant pump. If it takes you a few squeezes, you've got a leak, and if you're not pooling diesel on the ground, it'll be up high - like near the filter. Over prime the system (maybe 20 squeezes?) and see where the fuel is coming out. Check the primer bulb too, they're notorious.
replace some fuel hose with clear hose, look for bubbles.
air in fuel only makes one code.
i would replace ecu first, cheaper and easier than replacing pump. plus one code is ecu. if ecu has a fault it might accidently think other things are wrong.
Ok, come home and it started after a brief crank. Ran for a bit then just turned off again. Codes 0407 crank sensor (which is new and tested wiring) and 0701 Camshaft Position Sensor. Cracked injector and cranked it over, fuel coming out but wont fire. Cleared codes, car starts again. Changed out ecu in cab, car starts and runs for awhile then turns off again. Clear codes, car starts again. I do believe air may have been part of the problem here, but there is more to it obviously
welshy1
Member
Mate change the return valve on the I jectir pump its the one next to the inlet ok if the ball bearing is stuck it won't let the fuel return to the tank and the ecu will shut the pump down lots of guys get the pump.p tested by a mechanic AND THEN TELL YOU THE PUMP IS STUFFED in all along it may be just the return valve
0701 is CAM RING POSITION SENSOR. which is in the injection pump.
the crank timing is compared to cam ring sensor. that may be why it says both are faulty.
however i would check wiring first, especially earths. my mem both earth on top of inlet manifold.
i have seen some weird things with dual battery setups. if you have dual battery isolate it first.
thats actually quite a god idea.
if the return is blocked the internal pump pressure will go really high and that screws with the injection timing and ecu can think the timing sensors are faulty.
welshy1
Member
YEs mate have changed it when motir would not start change it and bingo it started straight away
