ZD30 D22 hard to start

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true that, hadn't ruled that out. was just going off what 2greedy has tried and nothing has worked for him. Dave do you reckon having an oil seal leaking around the injector could cause this? i have noticed that when it has this long crank there is a strong smell and normally a big puff of white smoke once it starts. i thought that might be because of the extened crank time and diesel building up? there is oil is leaking out around the injector nozzle seal as well, wouldn't this this would affect it but.
 
In my opinion, I doubt it could leak that much to affect it.

I have 260,000km's on my D22, starter motor is the original.

Do you go looking for mud ? I dont.
 
Na don't do any mud driving, have done a few trips up a sandy creek and did go bonett deep in a dirty/muddy water hole by mistake but that's the extent of it. Not a big fan of cleaning mud from every crevice on the car and hearing bearings churning more mud than grease.
 
New to this forum and am currently working through a 'Navara not starting issue'. I have a 2004 STR ZD30, 200, 000km. It was recently diagnosed with the 'Nissan Boot Code 47 (CAS)' fault, which was replaced today (which after reading this could have saved myself $200) and still hasn't fixed the problem.

On reflection, I think this problem probably began when I had a diesel freeze at Mt Hotham in August. Another symptom, not sure if it could be related, was my Spotlights are no longer working.

I am thinking it could be an earthing issue and looking towards the auto electrician as a solution. Any thoughts?

How did 2Greedy get on?
 
to awaken an old thread,

I'm still having trouble with my ute starting, hot, cold, day or night it just doesn't seem to matter. i've just learnt to live with the problem, but i have noticed and do it pretty much every time i start the ute now. If i give it full throttle while its cranking and as soon as it starts take my foot off the ute starts, only takes 2 maybe 3 cranks and no fault codes. without pressing the accelerator it'll crank for maybe 5 or 6, start and throw the engine fault.

now i'm assuming being a diesel and a mechinical pump, with the engine not running giving it full throttle only sends an electronic signal and dosent acutally pump any fuel in.

so is it possible that something in the "starting procedure" isn't seeing my throttle input on start up but is at full throttle?
 
wasnt there a few people in other threads talking about the accellerator pedal electrics causing them grief

i thought it was lawry that said he took his apart cleaned it all out and it has never run better

the tps is at your right foot....i could be mistaken but this may be giving a false reading going off your last comment above^^
 
Hey, i have a 2004 d22 nav and i have the same problem, changed fuel filter and glow plugs hasnt made any difference.
 
The power issue i have been told may be lack of compression? When i changed me fuel filter it took ages for it to start after priming it. To me its like it not holding fuel pressure in filter, as only really bad on cold mornings and when hasnt been started for a few hours
 
after i did a top end engine rebuild was going fine then the fuel rail decided to snap while i was on the freeway. replaced that and this problem started similar symtoms but only happend on under half tank of fuel and got harder to start as it got lower... any way my machanic read this thread and looked over all the options people been saying but non worked... ended up putting afuel lifter pump and another filter at the tank. starts no worries now 2 cranks she fires up has been 2 months now no problems...
 
Well my problem with all this starting drama has seemed to have gone away, touch wood...

I gave the car a full clean up a few weeks ago and decided to give the engine bay a real clean up as well. Degreased the whole engine with one of those compressed air spray guns, used the pressure washer to clean that off and did it all over again. Engine bay came up trumps.

Jumped in to start the old girl and it started the usual slow, heaps of cranking, engine light coming on way. Moved it out of the way and turned it off. Came back about an hour later to go for a drive into town and she wouldn't start.

Cranked the old for ages, tried all the tricks, primed the fuel filter, full throttle, short burst of cranking and what not. After about 10mins of trying I gave it one last try and just cranked it over for like 2 minutes straight and it started. Very rough, lots of black smoke and a loud rattle but it started then just went back to idling like nothing had ever happened.

By that point I was pretty angry at the ute and took it for a drive, a very hard drive. Redlining gears, racing off the line and what not. Got home, parked it up and left it for a few days.

Jumped back in Monday morning to head to work and it started, not even two turns and she was running... Fluke i thought but it hasn't missed a start since and that was a few weeks ago now.

So take from that what you want, but I reckon it's had something to do with a connection somewhere in the engine bay and I've gotten water into it, made it hard to start and then going for a hard drive has dried it out and left me with a better connection?

Any ways hopefully it stays working! Fingers crossed.
 
Have a read of this. Couldn't post the PDF it was to big.
 

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basically the starter relay chattering caused high EMF interference of the crank signal so the ecu won't squirt the fuel.
 
The solution sums it up.
The power to the starter solenoid was found to
be low, causing the solenoid to cut in and out a
few times under high current draw conditions
(lower battery voltage). The bad connection in
this circuit was by-passed with a relay feeding
the starter solenoid directly from the battery
positive. This fixed the problem.
 

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