Removing headliner to fix roof rails

Nissan Navara Forum

Help Support Nissan Navara Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

PeteV

Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
67
Reaction score
0
Location
Sydney
OK, so I've installed a set of rails on the new D22 using rivets. Put on a set of roof bars and added a light basket and an awning. I've just noticed one of the rivets at the end rear is just very slightly loose. When I say slightly I mean less than 1mm but I noticed it because when going over bumps I could hear some creaking. I believe it's the rivet moving slightly within the pre-drilled hole in the roof. As it turns out there is a tiny bit of play and the rail lifts just a fraction and makes the creaking sound.

So my question: any bright spark ideas on fixing this? Do I go from above and somehow tighten it? Would some teflon grease stop it? That doesn't seem possible as it's a rivet. Would anyone recommend some type of super strong glue? Or should I remove the headliner and attack from underneath? I'm a bit of a novice I'm afraid. I feel I've done a pretty decent job in general, but it seems that with some load and a fair bit of off roading there's just a bit of play. Cheers.
 
Rivets to hold on roof racks immediately gets me worried.
But I do not know how to do it any other way either... unless you were to remove the rivets and through bolt it with some large (wide) washers to spread the load on the tin metal roof.
Oh, and use nylock nuts in stainless steel 304 grade or better.
 
My suggestion would be drill it out ever so gently don't go pushing to hard. Then pump some clear silicone under the rail and in the hole and reapply the rivet slowly with someone pushing down on the end of the gun while you work the handle. Then spray with water and clean up any spooidge :)
 
Last edited:
If your worries about drilling thru the roof liner whilst drilling the rivet out then maybe you could try cutting a bit of timber that's 10 shorter than the length of the drill bit hem it's sticking out of the drill then still thru that first so it acts like a stopper and you can't drill too far even when it finally gets thru the rivet,, my experience is that you need a fair bit of pressure to drill out old rivets....
Just some thorts
 
Thanks all. I have since found out I have an ever bigger problem. Despite advice I have attached the strips incorrectly. They shoud've been fastened to the more sturdier part nearest the door closures. I have them too far in and as such not strong enough. The car mechanic advised me this. I'm shattered. Not looking forward to having to spend a fortune taking it off, repairing the holes I drilled and re-installing it. I could shoot myself. Left a sour taste, I feel ill....
 
I wouldnt remove the lining.
Either do what mike1303 suggests, perhaps even use next size up rivet if the hole is a bit loose.
Or remove rails, bog holes and refit rails further out.
There are photos on the forum of where to fit them.
Most important is lots of downward pressure as you operate rivet gun. I almost stood on mine, as I set up a ladder next to car as I did it, one foot on rail and one foot on ladder.
Its a bit of a baztard to be sure, but not the end of the world I suppose.
You may not notice at all if the basket is permanent.
 
Who looks at the bloody roof anyway. Stick a big-arse light bar up front and everyone will not take their eyes off it to notice anything wrong with the roof. As long as you put a reasonable amount of filler inside the hole to adhere to the roof surface, it should be almost smooth as glass on the outside.
 
Bit of silicon in the old rivet holes and a couple of fresh rivets in the old holes,,, stop the water getting in,, lol
 
Rivets to hold on roof racks immediately gets me worried.
But I do not know how to do it any other way either... unless you were to remove the rivets and through bolt it with some large (wide) washers to spread the load on the tin metal roof.
Oh, and use nylock nuts in stainless steel 304 grade or better.

Sydney Harbour Bridge was hand riveted... Just saying...
 
My problem is that only helps with shear force, not tension. Under tension (which is similar to someone trying to vertically lift the roof bars upwards, which would occur if you had a load on it and hit a bump) the rivets would weaken significantly.

For THAT reason, I'd recommend stainless bolts + nylock nuts, to stop the mount from lifting away from the roof. Shear isn't so much a drama (forward-backward along the roof).
 
I'd agree Tony , I just threw it in there cause I'm having a shit day and felt like some fun.just a bit of semi useless trivia.
If I put track style bars on I would actually put in a matching plate under as much of the rail as possible and do as you said nuts and bolts
 
Thanks all. I have since found out I have an ever bigger problem. Despite advice I have attached the strips incorrectly. They shoud've been fastened to the more sturdier part nearest the door closures. I have them too far in and as such not strong enough. The car mechanic advised me this. I'm shattered. Not looking forward to having to spend a fortune taking it off, repairing the holes I drilled and re-installing it. I could shoot myself. Left a sour taste, I feel ill....

I have just done the exact same thing yesterday, will this cause a dramatic carry load loss or is it bearable?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top