No Power when Accelerating

[canny lad]

I have an 07 D40 Navarra auto which is experiencing a power loss when either the Turbo Boost reads 19 or I get to 3000rpm in top gear. This normally happens when I have to put my foot down to overtake etc. Expecting to drop down a gear and the revs increase all i get is it staying in same gear revs increase boost goes to max the the power dramatically reduces. I have a scanguage connected so I am fairly confident about what is happenning. Boost Max, Engine load 100%, 3000rpm.
There are no error codes produced and in extreme cases the engine goes to limp mode, which means I have to stop and turn the IGn off to reset. I have read several posts on here with several ideas being pitched but it appears that all have had the problem return.
I've tried loosening the fuel cap didnt work, have changed air filter and cleaned pipes from intake to engine.(Lot of blowby oil).Didnt find any leaks in fuel lines.
As I think, the problem is fuel related as Ive got air, boost revs but no power.
The Fuel filter will be changed next then the suction control valve, Has anyone got any numbers for it and how to replace.
If anyone has had this problem and fixed it I would love to hear how. ( Not fixed it temporarily).
Thanks George

 

[garfish]

This is the sound it was making http://youtu.be/_g0IoztvBZA

 

[Old.Tony]

George - is your EGR blocked? I'd also check the MAFS in the back of air pipe just outside the air filter box). The fuel filter is definitely worth changing too, in case an obstruction is causing the problem. Make sure the seals go in properly and don't overtighten the fuel lines.

Garfish - that's terrible sound. It's like a diesel knock on steroids. It almost sounds like preignition - like an injector is leaking.

 

[Lowlyf]

hey mate did u end up finding out what the problem was with no power???

 

[garfish]

Nope still in at the dealers. I believe it is something big and mechanical, they are still thinking electrical saying it is probably the brake controller interfering with the electrics, am currently looking at options for a refund, 15 days in the workshop and no improvement have just hd to cancel the camping trip at Christmas

 

[garfish]

Dealer has just rang, they got it fault and discovered the injectors weren't coded correctly from factory they corrected the coding on them and without cycling the ignition the issue went away, sounds like thy may have got it fixed time will tell, Am optimistic

 

[ourd40]

Dealer has just rang, they got it fault and discovered the injectors weren't coded correctly from factory they corrected the coding on them and without cycling the ignition the issue went away, sounds like thy may have got it fixed time will tell, Am optimistic

Hopefully they have it sorted for you.

 

[garfish]

Here's hoping, am still struggling with the intermittent nature of this so hopefully it is. Also struggle with how brake controller could cause injector coding issues.

 

[garfish]

Given they reprogrammed the ecu 2 weeks ago I assume the injector codes are separate to this.. Or could there be a risk that the reprogramming actually caused the injector issues.

 

[garfish]

Well after a nice little holiday we got home yesterday exactly 7 days after picking it up. And was beginning to trust it but low and behold this afternoon boom, no revs, no power, just kept cycling the ignition and it came good, took it to the dump yes was tempted to drive it into the pit and leave it there. On the way back on the roundabout it stops managed to get to the side on the corner and sat there for 10 mins cycling the ignition till it came good.

 

[4BYFOR]

Mate I have exactly the same problem with mine it's been doing it ever since I had the car! I'm going to take it to diesel Australia after the holidays.. It will cost me $250 just from them to find out what is wrong then some after I know what it is.. So ill keep you guys posted once I know what's up with mine

 

[heypresto]

Hi All,
Just thought I would let you know of my experience with this problem to date. Both myself and my old man have 2012 D40 ST's purchased from the same dealer, both vehicles have had the no acceleration/limp mode issues with Dad's happening very frequently to the point where he could only go 2-3kms before it would go not limp mode. Stop start ignition would clear it but would occur again within a few kms. Mine happens only in the odd occasion. He was able to get it into the dealer while the engine light was still illuminated and vehicle still in limp mode. They replaced the exhaust temperature sensor and so far after 4 days no more problems so fingers crossed.
After having a good chat with the dealer they indicated the limp mode can be triggered by the slightest malfunction in the electrical systems, even a faulty brake light switch could trigger it so I am trying to find some consistencies when a fault occurs to help narrow down the search a bit.
Anyway it looks as though one vehicle might be cured so there is hope for the rest.
Cheers

 

[garfish]

Yay hope your fathers car keeps good mine is. Still in, we got 7 days out of the last fix, no check lights or anything comes up on mine. Have commenced lemon law action

 

[garfish]

Latest on this continuing Saga. Now that the car has been in the dealers for 6 of the last 8 weeks They have now found an issue with the Fuel pressure sensor within the common rail....

they said am looking again at multiple weeks without a car and I believe they are trying to get me a Micra.............................

 

[F6 381]

My July 2011 STX diesel has lost power 4 or 5 times in 20,000 k's. seems to be when I go to over take or come out of a corner and give the car 3/4 throttle. I just stop the car and then re start and all is fine for either months or days.

Car had it's service today and it had code P0211 & P0238 and I was told one code was boost pressure over load. So the next time the car does this they said to take it straight to them and they will hook up the scan tool to see what is going on.

Can anyone on this forum confirm if the above codes are correct?

Engine is stock and no mods or exhaust up grades

 

[Old.Tony]

P0211 isn't listed in my manuel but low P02xx is in the fuel injector area. P0238 is turbocharger boost sensor excessively high input (P0237 is low input). If you can, find someone that can read the ECU (perhaps with a Scangauge, or Android phone with Torque and a bluetooth OBD adapter) and see what boost pressures are being reported - you shouldn't see much beyond 20psi. It might be a faulty boost sensor, but could also be an issue with the vane controller (actuator). Some of the 2010/11 models had issues with the turbocharger actuator - replaced under warranty.

 

[4BYFOR]

Ok so here is the update! Been to diesel Australia the other day and found out that the "cutting out" drama I have is due to a faulty fuel pressure sensor.. There is no way to replace it without changing the whole fuel rail... So I found one on the net second hand for 150bux after I called nissan that wanted $1000 for a new one.. After talking to the guys at diesel aust. They wanted $500-600 to remove and refit the new one.. Lucky I'm handy with my hands and done quite abit of mechanical work on cars before and he told me I should be fine to do it myself as long as everything goes back on right and tight but not over tight.. So mission this week when I get the part is to replace the fuel rail ill keep you guys posted!

 

[F6 381]

P0211 isn't listed in my manuel but low P02xx is in the fuel injector area. P0238 is turbocharger boost sensor excessively high input (P0237 is low input). If you can, find someone that can read the ECU (perhaps with a Scangauge, or Android phone with Torque and a bluetooth OBD adapter) and see what boost pressures are being reported - you shouldn't see much beyond 20psi. It might be a faulty boost sensor, but could also be an issue with the vane controller (actuator). Some of the 2010/11 models had issues with the turbocharger actuator - replaced under warranty.

Cheers for the info Tony. I do a little beach fishing but always clean the car as soon as I get home so maybe a little green death on the sensor plug as I do wash the engine to get the sand off everything. I will try and get the sensor replaced next time it happens or replace the turbo actuator.

Nissan in Mandurah have been good to deal with and no drama's yet with anything I have wanted checked out

 

[bluessv]

Ok so here is the update! Been to diesel Australia the other day and found out that the "cutting out" drama I have is due to a faulty fuel pressure sensor.. There is no way to replace it without changing the whole fuel rail... So I found one on the net second hand for 150bux after I called nissan that wanted $1000 for a new one.. After talking to the guys at diesel aust. They wanted $500-600 to remove and refit the new one.. Lucky I'm handy with my hands and done quite abit of mechanical work on cars before and he told me I should be fine to do it myself as long as everything goes back on right and tight but not over tight.. So mission this week when I get the part is to replace the fuel rail ill keep you guys posted!

I was under the impression Nissan only sell the whole common rail (with sensors attached) in circumstances such as yours, but you can actually source the individual sensors from Denso....or whoever is the manufacturer. May be a slightly cheper alternative to replacing a piece of metal that is perfectly fine.

 

[Lippa01]

My shitter has the limp mode problem too. After retightening the earths hey have decided to throw a EGT sensor At it. It wasn't logging it as a hard fault, but Nissan aust have said replace it, wish me luck!

Cheers

Lippa