Diesel Particle Filter break down

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I think it works something like this:

Your dealer is just an outlet with a mechanic available that performs prescribed tasks as defined in the manufacturer's handbook.

For warranty claims, your dealer will have a fair idea of what Nissan will agree to pay for and in probably a fair portion of cases, your dealer says "ok it's warranty" and Nissan will agree. Then there'll be cases where your dealer will look at it, and then seek approval from Nissan to treat it as a warranty claim.

Once it's an approved warranty claim, your dealer carries out the work but instead of billing you, they bill Nissan for whatever rate they've agreed upon for hourly work, plus the cost of parts. The dealer just hands you the car back and in the normal course of events they eventually get paid by Nissan.

If Nissan refuse to accept that it's a warranty issue, really it should be between Nissan and the dealer. However, you've paid a dealer to do the work, so there's no need for Nissan to pay the dealer. It's now Nissan's responsibility to reimburse those funds to you, since you are the one that paid the dealer to do the work.

You could pursue it with the dealer, of course, on the grounds that they should not have charged you for the work in the first place, since the problem was one covered by warranty. If you had a lawyer batting for you, they'd probably go after both of them. The dealer because they shouldn't have charged you, and Nissan because they should reimburse you the cost of repairs (by an official Nissan dealer) for a fault that their warranty should have covered. In the settlement/court, my guess is that Nissan will cough for the costs that they'd normally pay to the dealer for that work, and the dealer will have to cough for the profit that they'd made above the amount that Nissan would normally have paid.

If it goes to court, Nissan will have to wear the costs. I'm sure they'd be aware of that too. I really think a lawyer is needed, even if only to get a clear bit of advice about who to shoot at, or maybe even get them to send off a letter to Nissan stating that they've been engaged to seek compensation for this amount, plus costs, yadda yadda, It might get them jumping!

Sorry for thinking while typing ... old habits haha ... but I'm relaxing in Mudgee at the moment, we've brought our screaming trip to a blissful halt for a couple of days!
 
That pretty much sums up the way most cases would work but there is always exceptions to any rule. I've heard of dealers hand balling warranty deals direct to the manufacturer and vice versa but thankfully I've never had a warranty claim on any of my Nissans.

My sis in law had a claim with Holden a few years back and neither dealer or manufacturer would accept responsibility but thankfully for her it was all in fighting and her car was fixed and no out of pocket expenses before the shit fight started because the dealer was sure they would get the manufacturer to pay and did the work as a warranty claim to begin with.

Sorry for thinking while typing ... old habits haha ... but I'm relaxing in Mudgee at the moment, we've brought our screaming trip to a blissful halt for a couple of days!

My ex boss owns a winery in Mudgee, blow it up for me will you?

To add to the screaming trip would you like some screaming kids there is about 6 kids under the age of 5 here and the parents are nearly as bad as the kids, but I'd be happy just to get rid of the kids.
 
just some info on removal of the DPF filter on the autos...

Ive removed the filter..
Firstly.. made a lil bit of note... better than standard..
Havent noticed any difference in fuel ecconomy at all..
Yes it blows smoke... alot more smoke.. ( this could be because my Turbo was replaced after dumpin oil all thro the intake)

And also... engine light came on after a week..
Reason for this: there are 3 Sensors.. (1) before the DPF which measures the pressure before the filter.. then the other 2 are (2)O2 sensor and also (3)the follow up to the first one.. so number 3 measures if the exhaust gases are getting dirty or the flow is gettin blocked.. so you can imagine after taking the filter out.. sensor 1 & 3 are reading the same pressure.. which it is not happy with... so bring up a fault code with sensor (3)..

Hopefully that all made sence..
So atm... workin on getting the resistance of the sensor (3) when clean.. then getting a resistor to suit, and connect into the wires that lead to the sensor..


So overall... i found the only thing the filter has really done.. is made a better note..

Also.. the filter was replaced with a pipe which had all the fittings for the sensors..

Hi D40Junky,
Have you got any updates with this. I have a 08 Auto and I have had the exhaust changed into a 3 inch from the DPF back. The reason I left the Filter in place is because of warrenty. The warrenty is coming up to the end and I want to replace the Dump pipe (cat filter) and the DPF with 3 inch pipe and been researching how the D40 will react without the DPF.
Have you had anymore problems with the sensors being unpluged or have you just removed them? Have you done anything else?

Cheers.
 
Only quoting from memory here but I think you will find in one of the DPF threads here that simply disconnecting the sensors wont work. I can't remember who it was that said it but I'm sure someone had stated how they removed the DPF and whether they did anything about the sensors.
 
This thread is really putting the wind up me on the possible replacement of my R51 Pathfinder. I have an auto one but it is a pre DPF car. In the R51 the PDF models seem to take a fuel consumption hit of around 30%, plus the extra service costs, plus the potential complications and costs highlighted in this thread

If the light came on while my wife or mother were driving somewhere I could not be sure they would remember to drive it to meet the conditions to initiate a regen, plus if they are stuck halfway from nowhere with a horsefloat on the back with two ponies in it, what are they supposed to do, leave the float and ponies at the side of the road to reduce load while they go for a drive to initiate and complete the burn?

I keep on leaning towards a petrol softroader for the missus (Maybe an Xtrail) and a petrol Patrol a couple of years old to tow the float and stuff the fuel consumption, only use it as a tow truck.

To add fuel to the fire making me consider moving the R51, someone I know of on another forum has recently had an auto failure in an R51. The valve body has a problem and the fix is $4000 for a new one when it si entirely possible that it is a broken 2c spring in a line pressure reg or something like that. Of course that auto will be common to D40 utes.
 
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This thread is really putting the wind up me on the possible replacement of my R51 Pathfinder. I have an auto one but it is a pre DPF car. In the R51 the PDF models seem to take a fuel consumption hit of around 30%, plus the extra service costs, plus the potential complications and costs highlighted in this thread

If the light came on while my wife or mother were driving somewhere I could not be sure they would remember to drive it to meet the conditions to initiate a regen, plus if they are stuck halfway from nowhere with a horsefloat on the back with two ponies in it, what are they supposed to do, leave the float and ponies at the side of the road to reduce load while they go for a drive to initiate and complete the burn?

I keep on leaning towards a petrol softroader for the missus (Maybe an Xtrail) and a petrol Patrol a couple of years old to tow the float and stuff the fuel consumption, only use it as a tow truck.

To add fuel to the fire making me consider moving the R51, someone I know of on another forum has recently had an auto failure in an R51. The valve body has a problem and the fix is $4000 for a new one when it si entirely possible that it is a broken 2c spring in a line pressure reg or something like that. Of course that auto will be common to D40 utes.


I reckon there is a lot of unnecessary hysteria going on about the DPF. Within a couple of years you will not be able to buy any diesel that isn't fitted with one as they simply will not meet the changing emission standards but this, IMHO, is no big deal. Heavy truck have been fitted with a DPF in the US and Europe now for donkeys years and I believe that all new trucks sold in Aus are also now fitted with them. If you run on the highways you will likely never ever notice that you have a DPF and the only time you will see the dash light is among the array of lights just prior to starting. You have to drive for a long time at very low speeds for the light to come on. I had 5 days at speeds below 35kph when crossing Aus last year...the Wapet and Kidson Tracks, Gary, Gunbarrel, Heather Highways, the Great Central Road and other bush tracks.....the light came on while I was at Vievers Crater and I simply locked in 2nd gear low range got the revs above 1600 rpm (which is the highway rpm at 80kph with OD in) and after approximately 10 minutes the DPF light extinguished. Fortunately I had read the book and knew what to do......don't blame the manufacturer or dealer if you are too tired to read the operating instructions.
If you are worried about the missus or mum.....don't....chances are that being a woman they have already read the instructions...if not tell them about this feature.
Folks this ain't rocket science...read the book and you will quickly understand what you have to look out for and what to do. Don't effect the burn when the light comes on and you will have to pay the dealer to do one as the vehicle will go to limp home and stay there.
 
Merchant

We're all 'Saturday morning Lawyers' on 'ere and happy throw our opinions your way. My advice is go and engage a lawyer and a good one at that! They'll give the best advice and greatest chance of not only winning but winning well.
 
I agree totally with Pete on this matter. 16 years of use in road going vehicles and more than 20 years in non road going vehicles mean that DPF's are widely used and have have been for longer than some of us have even owned cars. No one is denying that some people are having problems with them but some people also have problems with batteries and tyres but it doesn't mean they are all bad.

There could be many possible reasons a DPF goes bad, from the one bad unit out of a batch to the oil used but if they were all an issue there would be a lot more people complaining. While we don't all have to have a deep understanding of the DPF like most things it's still in the owners best interest to atleast have the knowledge the manual provides you with.

It also pays to be aware that not all manufacturers expect the regen cycles to be carried out the same so while the advice here is for the D40 Nav don't assume that it's the same for all makes and models, or even for future Nav models. Read the manual thats what they give it too you for. The ten mins you spend reading it may be the difference between the huge repair bill and happy motoring.
 
No hysteria on my part, just an increasing skepticism that deisel powered machines stack up. I am not into FUD marketing.

And nope, neither the wife or mum will have read the manual. Only time I have seen either with a nose in there was when they could not figure out the bluetooth setup on the Dualis.
 
Photocopy the applicable section of the manual and then paste it into the current No Idea or Womens Wankly that they read. They will come across it like it's an important piece of information and then alert you to it as if they know something you don't.

If you believe half the press these days they are telling us that we are all silly for buying diesels not matter what car they are in. The article I was reading last week was going on about how bad diesel fuel is becoming and how we are getting to a stage that because so many brought diesels to save money the fuel companies are making a more inferior products to keep up with demand and soon we will all be screaming that diesels were the wrong choice. I really do have to stop reading No Idea.

Either way as with most things in this world it's the bad press that comes out first and the good stuff gets left behind. Watch any news service today the majority of reports are taking the sensationalistic side of things. If a car blew up on the side of the road it's automatically a tragedy and if it had happened 5 mins earlier would have exploded next to a bus load of school kids. The same make of car travels 800K without ever having a problem or causing a problem and it's not news worth, except maybe to someone wanting to buy that car. A few pieces of bad press doesn't automatically make a part that must be in millions of engines a problem for everyone.

I'd rather be aware of the DPF than skeptical but each to their own.
 
I dont pay much attention to the mainstream press, the old FUD factor just plays to great a role there (Fear Uncertainty and Doubt) FUD is fantastic for selling newspapers.

I will have to find a link to it but if I decide to live with the PDF and other potential cost issues, looks like the R51 and presumably also the D40 is about to get an upgrade. It looks as though the V6TDI in the new Patrol is going to find it's way under the R51/D40 bonnet. I bought the Pathfinder as a commute and tow unit, 170 odd KW and 550nm of torque would make for a hell of a tow truck.
 
Pete, how heavy was your rig during that trip, and were you towing anything?

I don't really know what my GVM was but I was loaded to the hilt....not towing anything though - left the kangacamper at home for this trip. I had the back chockers with food and beer and other stuff, 70 ltr water tank full, 160ltr fuel tank full (plus the 20 ltr jerry on the roof with petrol for a mate's Frontera, clothing for 10 weeks which included some cold weather stuff and two tents (an Oztent Ranger and a Oztrail 9x9). Second spare, gas bottles and lots of other ancillary stuff on the roof as well. You will also note from my signature block that I have 2 large aux batteries in the back as well. I also had 10 ltrs of Shell Helix ultra oil, diff oil, brake fluid and a range of spares and tools on board. So all up I was pretty damn heavy. Notwithstanding I returned 14ltrs/100km over the 19000km of the trip and a lot of this was is soft sand, serious corrugations and punching into a 60 knot wind across the Nullabor to get to the WA start point in the first place. Couple of pics attached.......gotta get back out there again soon.......
 

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punching into a 60 knot wind across the Nullabor to get to the WA start point in the first place.

You could have been a nice person and taken the wind with you instead of leaving it there for fellow travllers. My trip across the Nullarbor in December was the worst I'd ever seen it for wind in the last 6 years. Coming back in January was a little better but still strong for the majority of the trip
 
Looks pretty wicked Pete, and she looks very heavy on the tail. Great pics though, I'm not sure if I'll ever get to do that myself, so the pics will have to do me!

You gotta try and get out there Tony.....I intend doing the Simpson the other way next time...ie East to West, it is an absolutely magic place. Looks a bit low in the tail in those shots but it sits pretty high really...perhaps the 20psi in the tyres and the soft sand make it look more pronounced.
 
i think AU runs the same standards as euro. will hve to double check.

one think you could try is blocking or limiting the egr. got to be carefull they don't overboost or throw error codes. but if you can reduce egr it should reduce the amount of soot the engine makes which should reduce the clogging problem.

Hi Tweak

The AU series runs the same as the EU series as now we us the Euro drive cycle test that corrolates to their regulations.

We have been selling the DPF rqace pipes for a while and it cause no issues with codes etc ... BUT DOES SAVE FUEL :) as the factory ECU does not need to do a Post Burn Injection to clean out the factory DPF. You will get similar economy to the manual version.

The new eBay link is here

NAVARA D40 DPF Delete ( RACE ) Pipe - eBay Other, Performance Parts, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 11-Jul-10 18:19:11 AEST)

Also, blanking off the EGR pipe is a good mod for the Navara as well. More turbo response, much lower AI temps, better economy. We dont make them yet but soon will have the template and will place them on our site.


Cheers

Robert
 
...it cause no issues with codes etc ... BUT DOES SAVE FUEL :) as the factory ECU does not need to do a Post Burn Injection to clean out the factory DPF. You will get similar economy to the manual version.

While I am not familiar the Chip it product, I can confirm that fuel economy improves tremendously and if done properly the ECU will not throw any error messages.
 
gee it is good to hear about the DPF ( like not) my STX navera (07) which has done 98K has now go the DPF light on & although it is under extended warranty by Nissan they say that it has to be replaced & the cost is to be born my yours truely, epected to be around the 3k mark. Nissan say that this is a service part so therefore no go as far as they are concerned, like to shove it rather hard up there you know where. Has anybody had any luck in dealing with Nissan main office>?
 
gee it is good to hear about the DPF ( like not) my STX navera (07) which has done 98K has now go the DPF light on & although it is under extended warranty by Nissan they say that it has to be replaced & the cost is to be born my yours truely, epected to be around the 3k mark. Nissan say that this is a service part so therefore no go as far as they are concerned, like to shove it rather hard up there you know where. Has anybody had any luck in dealing with Nissan main office>?

This forum is littered with people that haven't had any luck getting info or help from Nissan head office, but I'm sure there is also people who have had help. Like all companies Nissan are in it for the money and will prove as hard as they can that they aren't at fault. it sucks but it's the way of the world.

There is also a thread on here somewhere (search is you friend) about removing the DPF if you want to go down that path.
 
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