D40 2012 P1275 Dpf issues

[Paul13]

Hi all,
New to forum to try learn more. Never been mechanical at all but have had to learn lately due to 2012 D40 Spain built having weird issues.

My work requires plenty of driving around site moving materials etc and idling too much (before I learned what a bloody DPF is)

Started with car struggling to idle first thing in morning and stalling. Would have to take off riding brake and keeping revs up. Would come good after 5kms and idle fine. Thought it was just the colder weather or dodgy fuel cos I’d let it get low. After 2 weeks of this, got it serviced and still no change. 2 days later went into limp mode. Mechanic mate looked at it and narrowed down to Cam position sensor. Changed this and ran great for 24 hrs.

Limp mode again plus Dpf light and throwing multiple codes (P1274 Fuel pump, P2002 Particulate Matter over accumulation, P0089 Fuel pump, P2002 Particulate Matter over accumulation, P1275 Fuel pump)

Changed SCV and Fuel rail Sensor plus fuel filter while waiting on local Diesel guru booking and none of this helped.

Diesel guru did a DPF regen and managed to clear all codes. Running great for 48 hrs then f@*$ing DPF light on again. Ran Dpf cleaner in fuel and cleared for 24 hrs before limp mode and Dpf light again. P1275 fuel pump code that won’t clear. Advised to do a delete pipe.

Pulled out Dpf and bored out while waiting for Delete pipe to arrive and still getting P1275 fuel pump code that won’t clear.

Installed delete pipe tonight and won’t clear doing manual reset with accelerator and thinking it will be the same on computer when I can get booked in to Guru.

Any ideas guys? Have enjoyed learning about mechanics finally at age 42 but I’m at my wits end and can’t afford to keep throwing money away!

 

[Paul13]

@auggie this is what I’ve been dealing with and will be calling you about

 

[Old.Tony]

I'd stop throwing money at it for the moment and the very first thing I'd do is get a wire brush out, remove the battery terminal connectors and thoroughly clean them. Then the ECU ground (in your model, some ECUs didn't ground perfectly and it'd only take a small amount of oxidisation to bugger them up). Check the earth cable to the side of the motor. Pull the connectors off the fuel pump, even spray some electrical contact cleaner (which is the exact same thing as MAFS cleaner) and reconnect. Do the MAFS while you've got the can in your hand - there's a tiny hole in the bottom of the MAFS, spray into that hole (do not put anything solid inside, you'll destroy the MAFS). Spray until the black stuff stops coming out.

While you're cleaning stuff, if you're feeling energetic (note that this will NOT solve any codes, it's just maintenance) - release the front grille (pop-up plastic push pins along the top, horizontal tabs along the bottom behind the grille, you can reach 'em from the top) then undo the clamps holding each side of the intercooler in place. Pull the intercooler out, and pour a little petrol in one of the openings with your hand sealing the other end. Swish the fuel back and forward (you'll get the hang of it fairly quickly - the hand heading down will need to be firmly on the opening to stop fuel leaking out and the hand going up will need to relax to let the pressure of expansion out). You'll be surprised at how black the liquid coming out is. Repeat until you start seeing the petrol colour.

Yes, the DPF can be a pain in the neck. The idea is a reasonable one - remove the soot from the exhaust - but in implementation it sometimes comes unstuck. If you've hollowed yours out, you won't need a delete pipe, just the sensor replacements from Auggie.

 

[Paul13]

Thanks for the info Tony! Had to google what a MAFS is but looks pretty straight forward. Will do all of this. Did the ECU ground and battery terminals earlier and they seemed ok. Fault was still there and then I found a thread on here about an extra 2 steps using accelerator to clear codes (depress for an extra 10 secs then press for another 10 after standard reset) and this managed to clear the code! Been for a half hr drive and seems to be running well.
Had already installed delete pipe last night so will see how that goes for time being but sounds like I need to get Auggies sensors from what I’ve read.
Thanks for your help. Great site!

 

[Hjdkrkfh]

Hello, HELP!! car starts and when I rev it shuts off right after it goes under 1,000 rpm.

 

[sir-revalot]

Hello, HELP!! car starts and when I rev it shuts off right after it goes under 1,000 rpm.

If it's a Thai one, (mnt vin) unplug the cam position sensor. If it doesn't stall then it will be stretched timing chains.

 

[sir-revalot]

Thanks for the info Tony! Had to google what a MAFS is but looks pretty straight forward. Will do all of this. Did the ECU ground and battery terminals earlier and they seemed ok. Fault was still there and then I found a thread on here about an extra 2 steps using accelerator to clear codes (depress for an extra 10 secs then press for another 10 after standard reset) and this managed to clear the code! Been for a half hr drive and seems to be running well.
Had already installed delete pipe last night so will see how that goes for time being but sounds like I need to get Auggies sensors from what I’ve read.
Thanks for your help. Great site!

Do you have a link to the reset? I did the easy one and I've still got a dpf light and limp mode. Think I need to clean it out or replace it.