K
D40 oil
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Krankin
Guest
merchant
Member
Uuuummmmmm, +1
I have the dpf delete pipe from chip it. No problems. You will notice it has a bit better pick up. Mine is diesel auto, 07 model. Fuel consuption has gone down a bit as well, overall very happy with it. P.s I dont have the chip and I still use the synthetic oil.
assassin
Member
I agree entirely. Most , if not all, D40 automatics were fitted with a DPF and as such only a full synthetic 5w-40 low ash oil should be used such as Valvoline Syn-power MST 5w30. It is slightly different to the standard syn-power & other synthetics, specially formulated to suit engines with the Diesel Particulate Filter in the exhaust.
K
KraftyPg
Guest
There is enough people out there already scared of the DPF let's not worry even more of them. The DPF was only fitted to certain models of D40 autos and I believe that was spanned across 09 and maybe some of the 10 models and definitely not all D40 autos.
... and if you DO have a DPF fitted, you'll find that the manual specifically states that the chosen oil needs to meet or exceed JASO-FD or API Grade CF-4. There is a specific warning to "never use API Grade CG-4".
For Australian conditions, 5W30 would cover our vehicles year-round, from Thredbo to Telfer.
For Australian conditions, 5W30 would cover our vehicles year-round, from Thredbo to Telfer.
K
Krankin
Guest
Yes...
I would go to a syn 5w-40 personally.
the 30 is due to the dpf and not a requirement of that engine, but being a full synthetic its well up to the job.
entirely your choice though.
Jeff
Member
I've been using Nulon 5W-30 which is recommended for turbo diesels with DPFs and states that it is suitable for Nissan engines.
Its about $12.00 per litre and can be hard to find so I buy it at Super Cheap whenever they have a 20% off sale.
Jeff.
Its about $12.00 per litre and can be hard to find so I buy it at Super Cheap whenever they have a 20% off sale.
Jeff.
K
KraftyPg
Guest
Same stuff I use because in a town with 3 auto shops next to each other it's the only DPF rated stuff I could buy. Don't particularly like supporting SCA but when neither Autobarn or Repco have what I need it's a hard choice.
What brand n was it low ash? Does seem odd
K
KraftyPg
Guest
I could be wrong but I thought someone a while ago suggested Nissan were changing to 10W40 for DPF vehicles.
Of course there is always the chance that even if it's written on the receipt as 10W40 that's not the stuff they used. I don't think I've ever received an invoice from my local dealer that hasn't had atleast 1 typo on it. They've had the Nav's rego wrong for 2 years.
Of course there is always the chance that even if it's written on the receipt as 10W40 that's not the stuff they used. I don't think I've ever received an invoice from my local dealer that hasn't had atleast 1 typo on it. They've had the Nav's rego wrong for 2 years.
I wonder if we should be just a little concerned about 10W40 being used in cold-ish weather and its ability to enter the turbocharger bearing surfaces. I think I'll ask for 5W30 for my autumn service next year and they can go back to 10W40 for the spring service.
K
KraftyPg
Guest
I'm still using the same Nulon oil I've used since the 10K service. It's the exact specs Nissan quote in the book and it's the only stuff I can get with those specs from my local stores. I'd get my mechanic to buy the stuff for me but given he only services two vehicles with DPF's and one of those is a Toyota bus it's just not worth him keeping it in large drums for me.
For the record though anyone who thinks the Nissan DPF is an issue or at very least a PITA you ain't seen nothing until you've seen the way the Toyota want Coaster owners to treat the DPF.
For the record though anyone who thinks the Nissan DPF is an issue or at very least a PITA you ain't seen nothing until you've seen the way the Toyota want Coaster owners to treat the DPF.
Chris C
Member
Unless you have a trip to the Snow planned, I would have no fear on running a 10W40 oil in your Navara, I have used Caltex Delo 400 15W40 for 3 years now in everything I own, yes everything the list includeds.
2010 VX prdado D4D auto. 35000km problem free.
2002 HDJ79R Cruiser Ute, 220,000km, Problem free.
2006 BF Falcon 4lt XR6 Turbo sedan 75,000km , over 320kw at rear wheels
2006 KTM 525exc enduro bike, 8500km problem free.
+ sons bike, lawn mowers and Hyundai run around.
The Navara will get the same, oil every 5000 and filter & oil every 10,000km
A 10W, or 15W oild will have no problem protecting or "entering" the turbo, you have oils pressure within a Very short period of time after start-up, unless you shut the engine down when red hot, there will still be oil in the bearings, the majority of oil will have drained back to sump, but there will always be some left, it only needs the smallest amount to protect it.
When you start your engine the turbo is under zero load, even if you rev it, the turbo wont make any boost unless there is load on the engine, you will get a small spike in boost as the engine increases revs, but once reving, the boost falls as there is no load, no load means no boost, no boost means no strain on turbo.
Turbo's are nowhere near as delicate as people think, sure, we need to look after them, but they are designed to go through hell, sit at 650 c , spinning at over 300,000rpm for long periods of time. they can take a bit of crap, dont worry.
It is far more important you change your oil regularly to remove contaminants, carbon, fuel etc, which are what does the damage, the oil doesnt wear out, it just gets dirty, and "filters" only remove the big chunks, not carbon. so change your oil, block your EGR and dont stress over 10w40 versus 5W40, it wont make any difference in Australia.
I change the oil in my cruiser at 5000km, you can still see through it, it is a dark honey colour, EGR has been blocked from new, oil done every 5000km filter every 10,000. The engine is still like new, it has 220,000 km so far. I oil sample every 10,000km, its reports are perfect, as good as anew engine.
For me, a drive to Polblue isn't out of the question, and it has snowed there. I even have pics of it.
I'll also be in Tasmania this coming summer, and during summer it has snowed on top of Mt Wellington (which we will be climbing). I think I'll just move to 5W30 and leave it at that. The extra cost be damned - I'd rather the protection.
I'll also be in Tasmania this coming summer, and during summer it has snowed on top of Mt Wellington (which we will be climbing). I think I'll just move to 5W30 and leave it at that. The extra cost be damned - I'd rather the protection.
Chris C
Member
Just remember that a 5W30 has an upper temp range of only 30 deg C ammbiant, which is not that high for Australia,
5W30 will cover you from -30 to 30 c amb
10W30 will cover you from -18 to 30 c amb
15W40 will cover you from -9 to 50 c amb
5W40 will go from -30 to 50 c amb
but I think you may be worriying about the cold a little too much, Cat recommend a 10W40 for anything Operating in a temp range of -18 to + 50 deg C
Running 5W30 wont hurt one little bit, but a 5W40 would offer a better protection for the range of temps we see in Australia. so would a 10W40.
