another suspension lift thread

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Hey guys,

trying to work out which way to go with suspension as i find that I'm hitting everything atm when heading off-road due to the lack of clearance. buddies stock 100 series land cruiser did it fine,

so i'm using his car as the yard stick for clearance wondering if anyone with a two inch lift could measure how much clearance they have from the ground to the bottom of the chassis rail at the center of the car and to the bottom of the engine/bash plate.

since I'm hoping 2" lift and some bigger tyres would give about 30cm from the chassis rail and 26 from the bottom of the bash plate.

Cheers in advance
 
Mate i think you are really trying to get to a point that the d40 with only a 2"lift will never get to.
The main issue is that from stock they have such a low chassis rail, (for eg) from memory its like 90mm lower then a stock Hilux of the same model.
The other side to it is the wheel base, if you measure from centre of the front wheel to the rear its one of the longest 4x4's on the market, longer then the patrol wagon and im sure the 80/100 series cruiser's.

So the only way you will even come close to matching others ramp over ability is to go with the Calmini 5" lift/diff drop kit, then add your 2" lift to it and run at least 33" tyres because any thing smaller looks strange.

I go out wheeling all the time with my mate in his 80series and my cousin in his hilux with 3" lift and they get the Nav in that area all the time, it is frustrating but costly to alter and also makes the ute super illegal and therefor un insurable
 
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i know i know :(

its just annoying when the stock suspension height with the only mod being an ARB steel bar and bash plate.

Struggle with the simplest Victorian national alpine track ether rubbing on the bash plate and towbar or side steps.

even more annoying seeing a rav4 in the top car park that i struggled to get too!
 
Its about the line you take. Dont follow your mates 100 you'll never make it. My Nav stock hight will go anywhere I want it with enough peddle and picking the high side. As Nath said they are one of the longest wheel bass out and also one of lowest ride hight as 4x4 ute. So really a 2" and 32"s will give you 3-4" lift (Illegal without engineering). But will get you most places. If your after the hight of a triton or even a d22 been able to run 32s stock hight. Buy a 5" kit or easier buy a Triton.

Dont knock the Rav4s they are chack and cheese when compered to the Nav. They dont have low range. But been a swb and the stock ride hight they have a very good ramp over. My SES unit used to have one lock the central Diff give it the berries and she would fly.
 
My chassis rail is about 30 cm off the ground and I only have a 2 inch lift ... :hmmmm2:

The thing you gotta remember about the stock suspension is this: its not just the strut length (front) and spring height/shock length (rear) that affects the height of the vehicle. The spring RATE also affects it. The stock springs are so soft that you get additional sag. So in summary the combination of soft springs and short strut/spring lengths make for a crap combo which results in the low stance of the D40.

If you replace the stock stuff with longer aftermarket struts, springs and shocks as well as firmer spring rates (such as the 'performance' or 'constant load' rates offered by Ironman) then you'll increase the lift height by more than the accepted 40mm minimum. This is why most people end up with >40mm of lift following a 2 inch lift. I achieved ~60mm up front and 70mm out back. My lift was installed about 6 months ago now and has settled to these levels nicely.
 
thanks guys,

I love my Nav so i wouldn't swap it for the world, i think i need to factor in with the droop i have suffered from the steel bar once i do lift it with better tires it will make a world of difference and hopefully i will be happy.
 
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265 75 16 or 265 70 17 fit on a nav with a 2" lift without a problem or any other mods.
I have just fitted 33's or 285 75 16's to mine with only a 2" lift and doing a little mod to the bottom of the guards.

what year model is yours?
 
Well its also the type of tread. A 265/70/R17(31.6) mud will do better the a 285/75/R16(32.8) A/T. Depending on the where your driving. Have run them myself but know people who have. Go a 2' lift and 265/70/R17(31.6) Toyo Muds. Tough as nails.
 
A good A/T will get you just about every where you want to go, BUT you dont need to stick with the two you mentioned as most of the big brands make great quality tyres now, especially as the suv/4x4 seen is growing.
You could look at Mickey Thompson, Kuhmo, Dick Cepik, GT Radial, the list goes on and they are all good tyres that will be allot better then the stockers and get allot better milage as well.
 
Don't go for the b/stone 697 it's supposed to be a a/t whilst it is great on road in the wet and in sand throw mud at it and it turns into slicks.
 
sorry for digging up my old thread,

didn't want to start a new one on the same topic

I've done a 2" lift to the car and installed 265/75/16 cooper ST Maxx tires,

and just looking to lift the car up a little more.

if i wanted to add 2 or 1" spacers and shakles to the current setup obivously the UCA's and brake lines need to be changed.

is their anything else that i need to change or be aware of?
 
sorry for digging up my old thread,

didn't want to start a new one on the same topic

I've done a 2" lift to the car and installed 265/75/16 cooper ST Maxx tires,

and just looking to lift the car up a little more.

if i wanted to add 2 or 1" spacers and shakles to the current setup obivously the UCA's and brake lines need to be changed.

is their anything else that i need to change or be aware of?

Have you thought about bodylift? Simple way to add lift without spending heaps of money. Check your road legalities before commiting as every state is different. You can also change the ucas up front to calmini or similar and ad either spacer or extended shackle to rear but again check road regs and legalities first. I have a simple 2" sus lift (torsion bars, calmini arms, bilstein shocks up front, sax 3sds and rancho adjustables in rear), 30mm bodylift and have also changed to braided brake lines as i dont want the rubber ones being snagged. Braided lines are 2.5" extension front and rear but the fronts ones could have stayed standard length as they would have been long enough.

Chat to Zordo abiut his bodylift kits.

Rusty
 
thanks rusty, considered it but illegal in SA and from what i can see the body lift doesn't help to raise the suspension component?
 
Yeh it doesn't aid ib lifting the suspension. Only way to lift is via using calmini arms and 3" springs or other bits.

Rusty
 
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