3.0 litre EGR/Butterfly/Swirl Mod

Nissan Navara Forum

Help Support Nissan Navara Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Hey fellas iv got abit of a problem my egr pipe behind the turbo is cracked went to a machanic e and he said do the egr mod and block it behind the turbo and were u normally block it then I asked do we need to to the butter fly mod or any think else and he said no iv been reading up and some people think to replace the pipe and some say to just block it what would be the best option it's a zd30 2004
Cheers
 
Block it at the normal location and behind the turbo then the crack won't matter, yes do all the other mods for the butterfly/ swirl and vacuum lines etc so it all works properly and reliably.
 
Hey all, ive just done my EGR blank and hose rerouting.
But i find with the EGR plate in, I get a rattle its hard to pinpoint its location, however it is only under normal load, but if i rev it slowly in neautral It will not rattle/click,

Suggestions ?
 
Done mine also today, found the previous owner had put a thin bit of gal tin there already and had lost the bolt on the bottom of the EGR piping(a real bugger of a spot to get into), but had not done the butterfly/hose piping so put the SS plate in and took of all the EGR piping to re gasket seal and replace missing bolt, noted it was leaking where missing bolt was, done the butterfly mod/hose piping, all seems ok except for every now and then I hear a quick reasonably loud ting near the turbo, is this possibly the wastegate letting of excess boost while idling or something else?
 
If blocking both ends of the egr pipe, is the end near the turbo a suitable spot for an egt probe to be tapped into???
 
If blocking both ends of the egr pipe, is the end near the turbo a suitable spot for an egt probe to be tapped into???
+1
I want to no the same thing. it would be much easyer for me because I havnt got access to a welder.
also would 2mm stainless be suitable to put there
 
If blocking both ends of the egr pipe, is the end near the turbo a suitable spot for an egt probe to be tapped into???

Absolutely, but you have to make sure the plate is large enough for the probe. Some thermal probes have to be electrically isolated from the vehicle, so you need a ceramic insulator - adds to the thickness of the required plate.

I'm thinking about removing the EGR tube completely and putting a blanking plate on the end with the thermal probe mounted straight out of it.
 
Hmmmm ok.. Would these type of probes come with instructions indicating that hey need to to be isolated??? How long would the prob need to be to be situated in the right amount of exhaust gas to read accurately....
 
this here is my probe. haven't installed it yet because im waiting on anther blanking plate off ebay.


this here is the plate a bought would it be ok to put on the exhaust manifold side?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/110895925128?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

also I pulled off the heat shield off the turbo the other day and by looking at where the egr pipe comes out. it looks like its right where the last exhaust port is so I think I would get a pretty goood reading. am I right ?
 
That's the same plate I used but mine is at the inlet manifold end, I don't know if the hole positions are the same either end but the plate is good quality and would have no trouble handling the heat etc sandwiched between the pipe and manifold, your heat readings will be good but biased to what comes from the one cylinder mostly.
 
So are these plates ok to use with out putting that pipe back on??? Rigid enough to not buckle with heat and pressure?? Or should I make the exhaust manifold plate from some 5mm stainless??
 
These plates are great sandwiched but I'm unsure if they'd be ok on the exhaust side by themselves, they would be ok on the inlet side of things.
If you're taking out the pipe completely and don't plan on putting it back you could cut the pipe off and use the exhaust side flange to sandwich the stainless one, even a 5mm thick stainless one may warp on the exhaust side due to the different metals growth rate with the high heat level, I said may warp because I don't know for sure, you could always try it and see if you don't mind re doing it should it not work out.
If you just want to stop the egr there's no need to worry, just install the bought plate into the inlet side as per the write up.
 
^^ I'd agree with that, cut the pipe off and use the cast flange to sandwich it. 2mm stainless would warp very fast with the kind of temps you get around there.
 
What bods said. Stainless does expand at a different rate to cast iron, so if you're blanking the EGR tube at the exhaust side, 2mm is enough but sandwich it.

The best point for the probe is in the centre of the exhaust stream just before it enters the turbocharger. That's the point where the exhaust from all 4 cylinders will have combined and it's the point where the main focus is - the driving force of your turbocharger. If the EGR tube on your engine points roughly in that direction, you're laughing.

If not - and the EGR is sitting back a little - your readings will be CLOSE and really, that's going to be more than adequate.
 
What bods said. Stainless does expand at a different rate to cast iron, so if you're blanking the EGR tube at the exhaust side, 2mm is enough but sandwich it.

The best point for the probe is in the centre of the exhaust stream just before it enters the turbocharger. That's the point where the exhaust from all 4 cylinders will have combined and it's the point where the main focus is - the driving force of your turbocharger. If the EGR tube on your engine points roughly in that direction, you're laughing.

If not - and the EGR is sitting back a little - your readings will be CLOSE and really, that's going to be more than adequate.

wen I had the shield off the other day it looks like it will get the full force from the last cylinder ( I should have taken a photo to show you) but id think that putting it there would be a hell of a lot more better reading in the dump pipe.
im just trying to figure out was to use at the blanking plate.
because I don't want to cut up the old egr pipe because I want to keep it just in case I want to bring it it back to stock.
any other ideas of wat could be used as the plate ?
 
A second hand EGR pipe from a wrecker?

What about an old cast iron pot someone's throwing out and you just cut out the bit you want? A chunk of 3mm steel would do the trick too, I saw some of that stuff at Bunnings this weekend.
 
cutting the blanking plate from 5mm mild steel would allow enough meat for the probe to be tapped into and wouldn't warp built would it hold a seal good enough over that area???
 
Mild steel melts (depending on carbon content) between 1350 and 1500C (roughly). Your engine should never get that hot - but it might get hot enough to bend the steel.

If you could weld a ring to the back of it you'd give it extra strength against bowing in the centre and overcome that. I guess it would look like a 10mm slice of pipe welded to the back - it should stay straight then!
 
maybe I might just cut the old egr pipe and sandwitch it between the 2mm stainless and put the prob in that.
also I was thinking of drilling a hole in the plate and putting the prob through that and then put a nut on the inside to hole it there. that a good idea. was going to try and find a stainless nut or something
 

Latest posts

Back
Top