jap55s
Member
Lol Thanx. Also we remove the old gasket don't we? I did
3.0 litre EGR/Butterfly/Swirl Mod
- Thread starter stubbsy351
- Start date
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digbyj
Member
Hey nav heads.
I did my mod about 6 weeks ago with a steel plate.
Have noticed flat spot pretty much gone and fuel economy would be roughly same.
One issue... Seem to be having a but of seapage from where I put the plate. Ive retightened it, and plate fits fine. It's a Dave special.
Us anyone else getting seepage and not worried or can
I put a sealant or something to aid?
Cheers!
I did my mod about 6 weeks ago with a steel plate.
Have noticed flat spot pretty much gone and fuel economy would be roughly same.
One issue... Seem to be having a but of seapage from where I put the plate. Ive retightened it, and plate fits fine. It's a Dave special.
Us anyone else getting seepage and not worried or can
I put a sealant or something to aid?
Cheers!
Permatex Ultra Blue Sensor-Safe Gasket Cement. About $17 at Supercheap Auto.
Put it on both sides.
Put it on both sides.
superiorcruiser
Member
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i had seepage also untill i used this ultra blue stuff..sealed it now..
digbyj
Member
Thanks fellas, blue stuff it is!
pointblank5
Member
just an update...
i did the egr/butterfly ages ago, may or may not have noticed a difference in power (im not very sensitive lol)
since then i have gotten a chip, snorkel and exhaust.
and just the other day i finally blocked off the swirl vacuum line
DEFINATELY noticed a difference in low rev power!!!!!
its like the difference between having a chip and no chip all over again!! or when u turn the air con off... definately noticed it, smoother take offs etc.
well worth a try!!!
i am now convinced that the swirl valve is only there to help mix the egr and intake air.
because to increase the air velocity going thru the intake valves into the cylinder (like nissan claims it does), wouldent you have to reduce the size of the WHOLE intake leading up to that point? not just block off half the air supply and let it expand again in the intake manifold to slow down...
i did the egr/butterfly ages ago, may or may not have noticed a difference in power (im not very sensitive lol)
since then i have gotten a chip, snorkel and exhaust.
and just the other day i finally blocked off the swirl vacuum line
DEFINATELY noticed a difference in low rev power!!!!!
its like the difference between having a chip and no chip all over again!! or when u turn the air con off... definately noticed it, smoother take offs etc.
well worth a try!!!
i am now convinced that the swirl valve is only there to help mix the egr and intake air.
because to increase the air velocity going thru the intake valves into the cylinder (like nissan claims it does), wouldent you have to reduce the size of the WHOLE intake leading up to that point? not just block off half the air supply and let it expand again in the intake manifold to slow down...
the intake manifold is a dual manifold, each half having 4 ports. so swirl valve does actually block off half the air supply into the motor.
the reason yours would have made so much difference is because of the chip. the chip fixes the under fueling in the low rpm range these motors have, so it can really make use of the extra air your putting in with the valve disabled.
the reason yours would have made so much difference is because of the chip. the chip fixes the under fueling in the low rpm range these motors have, so it can really make use of the extra air your putting in with the valve disabled.
assassin
Member
Did the EGR and swirl mod myself the other night, wasn't too bad to do either. I bought new gaskets for the egr pipe from nissan (only about $5 each) and used them in conjunction with some 3mm stainless plate. Fitted a plate at each end of the EGR pipe to inlet manifold and it actually lined the bolts back up perfectly.
Seems to have definately reduced the low down lag/hesitation considerably. One thing I did notice was the extreme build up of carbon and oil inside the inlet manifold. Interject make a product to clean injectors on the car- I have 1 in my workshop, so I used some of their cleaner and sprayed it as a fine mist into the intake as engine was running. Cleaned it up beautifully!
Thanks to all who have taken the time to post articles & pictures on this very worthwhile mod- even just to keep that shit out of the engine. Catch can goin on tonite- got a nice alloy number off e-bay for $70, just gotta fit a baffle plate and filter media and away we go!
Seems to have definately reduced the low down lag/hesitation considerably. One thing I did notice was the extreme build up of carbon and oil inside the inlet manifold. Interject make a product to clean injectors on the car- I have 1 in my workshop, so I used some of their cleaner and sprayed it as a fine mist into the intake as engine was running. Cleaned it up beautifully!
Thanks to all who have taken the time to post articles & pictures on this very worthwhile mod- even just to keep that shit out of the engine. Catch can goin on tonite- got a nice alloy number off e-bay for $70, just gotta fit a baffle plate and filter media and away we go!
EGR mod
l did my EGR mod the other day, changed hoses and disconnected swirl solenoid. Does seem to take off better now, just need to fit catch can next.
Thanks EVERYONE for the info on mod and pics. used s.s plate on inlet manifold. Have been reading threads on fitting snorkel and front locka, but will have to wait for tax time hopefully.
l did my EGR mod the other day, changed hoses and disconnected swirl solenoid. Does seem to take off better now, just need to fit catch can next.
Thanks EVERYONE for the info on mod and pics. used s.s plate on inlet manifold. Have been reading threads on fitting snorkel and front locka, but will have to wait for tax time hopefully.
cabhsv
Member
Is it he swirl control soliniod you unplug when changing the hoses around and plating the pipes
Navvic
Member
Did the EGR/Butterfly mod, definitely feels different and I swear sounds a little different (must be the hearing aid
).
I did the top one for now, took me 1/2 an hour or so. The hardest thing was removing the vacuum lines, on nice and tight. I'll have to get used to the different clicking noises when she shuts down too.
A big thanks to Dave & Matt
).I did the top one for now, took me 1/2 an hour or so. The hardest thing was removing the vacuum lines, on nice and tight. I'll have to get used to the different clicking noises when she shuts down too.
A big thanks to Dave & Matt
shut down noise should be EXACTLY the same as stock. double check you have done it right. the whole point of swapping the hoses around is to keep the shut off butterfly system working.
Navvic
Member
Yeah maybe it's just me. I checked ... checked and checked again using harri3e's pdf. It's not that there is a different sequence or anything like that I just remember a louder "click" on shutdown.
She starts properly, runs well, shuts down without a problem so I'd say it's just me.
The only definite thing I can say is that the cough and splutter the first time it started got me worried but once it spat the gunk out she was fine.
Also SWMBO got in this morning and mentioned that the nav was quieter than normal. Normally when shes cold (the nav) shes a bit noisier but not this morning.
Peteyen86
Member
So what is the general consensus on blocking both the top and bottom? Does it matter if you are lazy and only want to do the top? Will this cause any concerns in the future?
Also the manual suggests to replace the Gaskets, are people doing this or not bothering?
Cheers
Pete
Also the manual suggests to replace the Gaskets, are people doing this or not bothering?
Cheers
Pete
assassin
Member
I did both the top and bottom on mine because it makes the pipe sit flush again with no pre-load/ twist. I replaced the gaskets with genuine ones. Abit of sealant would probably suffice, but I'm a bit anal! (and a mechanic).
Peteyen86
Member
Thanks mate, ill probably do the same, might as well do it right the first time. Got to install the catch can first though.
Pete
youngfrank77
Member
Gday, I just did the egr blocking plate, havn't noticed a difference in power BUT the pyro sits on close to 650 degrees C at 18 PSI boost, put the swirl connecter back on and no difference, only went to 500 degrees before, the pyro sender is after the cat so the temp in the turbo outlet may be a little higher is this normal???
it will never ever read correctly. the cat causes reactions to happen which can increase temps or even decrease all depending on whats going through it and what reactions are taking place. so its only reading cat temp, not engine EGT's.
best place to fit pyro is before turbo. 2nd best is aftter turbo but before cat.
I'll add my voice to that. After the cat is going to be so unreliable, because the cat is going to get fuel dumped on it and burnt as a separate process to the combustion happening in the engine.
+1 for a pyro mounted somewhere JUST before the turbine. The most important thing we need to know about the exhaust temperature is the temperature right at the intake to the turbocharger's turbine in the exhaust stream. At this point, all of the cylinders' output converges and it is this thermal energy that is going to make or break the turbocharger.
+1 for a pyro mounted somewhere JUST before the turbine. The most important thing we need to know about the exhaust temperature is the temperature right at the intake to the turbocharger's turbine in the exhaust stream. At this point, all of the cylinders' output converges and it is this thermal energy that is going to make or break the turbocharger.
