06 ZD30 Loss of power

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Bala

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Hi guys, i need some help,

This is the wifes daily, she drives 35K each way to work, its done about 140K.

I rarely drive it. It has suddenly lost a lot of power. I drove it today and it is smooth to drive but is well down on power.

I have fitted a new fuel filter, it was clean, checked air filter, heat/NPS.

My gauge for boost checking is at work 2hrs away.

I am after ideas, can I test the boost sensor in any way, it looks clean up inside the tube.

Any other clues? any inline fuel strainer/filters in banjo bolts etc?

I will be researching in the mean time,

cheers
 
The best description of the problem would be that the turbo was not working,

and thats what the problem is, it is siezed, well it will spin sometimes!

I had noticed that the last 10k km the oil has been getting dirty and there has been more oil in the catch can, it has soot on the bumper as well. So perhaps it has been getting slowly worse and she has not noticed she has had more throttle on and over fueling.

any way will get the turbo sorted and see how it goes.
 
Hey mate that's not good, you may want to check the compressor wheel for any damage or shaft play to see if its turbo related.. Could be the boost solenoid too, is there any smoke blowing out when the turbo is not working? Is the problem intermittent or it's just not boosting?
 
The problem is the actual turbo,

I need either a new turbo or get this one fixed.
 
I would also query the specifics about how the car is driven. Find out if the engine is likely to be hot (driven harder than my grandmother would drive it) just before it is shut down - if so, it's possible that this is the cause. The hot turbocharger will have oil sitting in its bearings which will start to burn and form varnish from the extra heat. In time, this builds up sufficiently to destroy the bearings.

It's fortunate that you caught it before the compressor impacted on the housing at speed, because at 100,000rpm+ the compressor wheels basically self-destruct and hurl bits of aluminium toward the engine at high speed - it's usually terminal for the motor.

If the driving pattern is changed so that either the last couple of kilometres is nice and gentle, or the engine is left to idle for around a minute upon reaching the destination, then this is unlikely to happen again.
 
I think in this case its just bad luck, this is the wifes car,

This car only does long runs, gets driven slowly 2km from the house before it gets to the main road and up to highway speed and then warmed down through town to her work. same on the way home. gets driven too easy if anything.

Magnatec 10/40 and filter every 5K. EGR block done early on as well as catch can.
 
I'd fit a turbo timer once you replace the turbo.

that and an egt gauge so you can see how hot the exhaust temp is, this gives a better idea of how long you should idle the motor before turning it off that just a plain turbo timer on its own. you can get an egt gauge with a relay output that will only turn the motor off when the egt gets to your set temperature so stop it getting shut off when it's too hot
 
here is the outcome.

06 Navara STR ZD30, the wifes daily, she complained that it was slow. I was away working, just as I was when the alternator failed on this and on my cruiser.

She did not get it into a shop so it was left till I came home. I drove it and it felt like the turbo was not working. After looking at quite a few things I looked at the turbo and it was not working.

Pulled it off this morning to find a piece of tin plate stuck in the turbo exhaust fins, it was a piece from my home made EGR blanking plate.

So paint tin lids for egr blanking plates are only good for about 100,000km.

Its back together and fine. Now I know why the oil started getting dirty, the egr was in play again.

So if you have made an egr blanking plate out of some random light metal you had lying around, then check it.

if you dont have your egr blocked have a look at the soot build up in your inlet manifold!!
 
I cant believe i got right thru the engine without destroying it.
Go buy a lotto ticket.
 
I believe it has gone back though the EGR tube to the turbo, the piece was about 10mm x 20mm.

It would need to have gone up the tube from the egr valve into the intake and get through both valves.


Not likely.

I have seen quite a bit of stuff go in intake valves, but never come out the other side.
 
I believe it has gone back though the EGR tube to the turbo, the piece was about 10mm x 20mm.

It would need to have gone up the tube from the egr valve into the intake and get through both valves.


Not likely.

I have seen quite a bit of stuff go in intake valves, but never come out the other side.

I assumed you had blocked it at the intake manifold. Still lucky to get away with no damage.
 
I like your thinking, good excuse for a new truck, tell the mrs that its ****ed and you need to upgrade... v8 cruiser lol
 
I like your thinking, good excuse for a new truck, tell the mrs that its ****ed and you need to upgrade... v8 cruiser lol

I drove a V8 for work for a while and they are nice but I will stick with my 03 NA 1HZ ute, its may be slow but its fairly simple. I bought it over later EFI models for that reason.

The D22 may get traded on a petrol rav or similar, dont really need the Navara now, could probably get by with a 2WD for the wife, but there are a few things to play out this year to determine the outcome.

It has a bit of a problem with the synchro in 1st gear, I have told her to keep the clutch in longer, I really dont feel like stripping the box.

gotta love cars
 
I doubt the intercooler would catch an EGR block plate - different air routes, but that said, an intercooler is not only good for a minor performance boost, but it's fantastic insurance in case the turbo ever lets go.

I could see how an EGR block plate on the exhaust manifold side could make its way into the turbo - the EGR block plate sits right on the front end of the exhaust manifold and the only other way out of the manifold is through the turbocharger.

I suppose that's a point in favour of blocking the intake manifold side of the EGR tube, or using really thick solid plates made of something with a high melting point.
 
1-3mm steel plate should be fine as a blanking plate, steel is about 2.8 times stronger then aluminium to anyone thinking of making up a plate out of scrap aluminium of the same size.
 
Sooo lesson learnt? No more making engine components from paint tin lids!! That goes for everyone. Haha classic.
 
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