drag link / centre rod

Navmania.
From what I've heard with debates/discussions with performance suspension is that the diff drop allows for 30mm of diff drop without lowering the crossmember. So the member is still allows for your dame height from ground to member. I'd like to see one fitted first.

Rusty

RustyNav09 said:

Navmania. From what I've heard with debates/discussions with performance suspension is that the diff drop allows for 30mm of diff drop without lowering the crossmember. So the member is still allows for your dame height from ground to member. I'd like to see one fitted first. Rusty

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If that's the case then it's a great mod. Good info Rusty. I remember you were looking at doing something like this a while back.
What is the price on the whole kit.
Cheers.

$550 for the kit I think. I was thinking about modifying the existing crossmember but never had the time. Was also just gonna use some diff drop bushes from the states which allow for 10mm drop I think

Mm. And the mods just keep adding up.

this is the info i got from them thismorning

Hey bud, so with ours unlike a std design, these run 'rotate' only steel bushes, which are MUCH harder wearing unlike the ones available! Having rotate only bushings in the draglink stops the pivoting that occurs with std design ones which is the cause of failure on them! These are $250 and instock

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Cheers
Bryan

Group buy! Yes I will be in 100%
For the diff drop and drag link as I am in the market for a new one every few months. Lol

Id be in this for sure.

Well that's a few now keen on a group buy, Hopefully a few more people might show some interest giving us something to work with. has it been confirmed the price of the full kit ?

Yeah I'm getting tired of changing drag links out. If we do this I'll be dropping the front down a little more. Saves me bending more tie rods as well.

is there any difference in the draglink, or even the snake racing draglink?

changing over wheels today, one front wheel in the air and it could be rocked left and right a fair way, there seemed to be twisting and pivoting in the draglink. also movement in the tie rod ends but i dont know if that was just because of the sloppy draglink.

looks like i'm up for a new draglink and tie rod ends.

ben85 said:

is there any difference in the draglink, or even the snake racing draglink?

changing over wheels today, one front wheel in the air and it could be rocked left and right a fair way, there seemed to be twisting and pivoting in the draglink. also movement in the tie rod ends but i dont know if that was just because of the sloppy draglink.

looks like i'm up for a new draglink and tie rod ends.

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Read my post a few up, the have 2 solid pivot pin each end, the standard/ snake or any other after market still have one pivot pin and one ball joint allowing the to twist.

bryan

So has anyone ordered the new draglink yet?

Oh i missed the quote part.

Ill probably be in for a group buy on the draglink if its going to be soon.

I assume the draglink can be used with standard tie rods?

ben85 said:

is there any difference in the draglink, or even the snake racing draglink?

changing over wheels today, one front wheel in the air and it could be rocked left and right a fair way, there seemed to be twisting and pivoting in the draglink. also movement in the tie rod ends but i dont know if that was just because of the sloppy draglink.

looks like i'm up for a new draglink and tie rod ends.

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I'm interested if there's a group buy !

I spoke to them on the ph yesterday and asked them to do a write up on the kit and also to post individual prices of each component! It is my understanding that the full kit that is pictured on page 2s total price is $1099 diff drop $550 draglink $250 and hd tierods $299 so at the moment I would only be keen on a drag link if a group buy was to go ahead. hopefully these guys will do a write up on these kits soon so that a bit more light can be shed on this subject for you all.

Anyone got a HD Drag link replacement yet? mines shagged so I'm told when i put new boots on the ute today. Not keen on oem if there is a much better option. also they reckon the right hand upper control arm bushes are stuffed. Wish I trusted the the shops,

I will have a look myself this weekend.. So any expert tell me how much play is acceptable with the drag link?
Anyone have a real honest but also very skilled (If there is both in one) on the Gold Coast?

So have been talking to Chris at performance suspension today, their draglink is made with both "rotate" style ends as compared to stock.as well as steel inside bushes not nylon.

Their words "The internal joint on the right hand side is a "rotate" only joint, the right hand is a "swing" style joint, the swing style joint is like a ball joint and allows NO support for the leverage that the tie rods place onto the drag link, so all leverage is placed back onto the left hand side, hence why the little nylon bush of around 3mm wall thickness just gets smashed to bits.

He swears by it,and comes with 1 year warranty.
Cv angle should come down 30-35 mm with the diff drop apparently.

I'm still on the fence with the diff drop kit, is a lot of money I could be putting into something else.

Stupid question but will the diff drop decrease the tie rod angles or just the cv?
I forgot to ask him that.

Diff drop only lowers the diff reducing cv angles. The tie rod angles will be the same with or without a diff drop kit. The angles will always be large if you lift the vehicle, the higher the lift the greater the angle. The only way to reduce the angles (apart from lowering the car) is to change their mounting points either changing the position of where the draglink sits (ie change the length of the pitman and idler arm or change where the tierod attaches the steering knuckle by lengthening that mount). Both of these options are a lot of work and I doubt the car would be legal to drive

Shorty4655 said:

Diff drop only lowers the diff reducing cv angles. The tie rod angles will be the same with or without a diff drop kit. The angles will always be large if you lift the vehicle, the higher the lift the greater the angle. The only way to reduce the angles (apart from lowering the car) is to change their mounting points either changing the position of where the draglink sits (ie change the length of the pitman and idler arm or change where the tierod attaches the steering knuckle by lengthening that mount). Both of these options are a lot of work and I doubt the car would be legal to drive

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Yeah I thought so cheers shorty

Yeah I spoke to them yesterday, put their drag link in Monday, along with their HD tie rod ends. Omg I have spent a fortune on this thing.