The D.I.Y. ZD30 remap thread.

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Ah righto. And you can adjust the fuel down low to suit? Also I assume you found the boost cut map if you did runs at 21 psi?

Yeah, i'll keep changing and testing fueling. Not the correct way to avoid boost cut but I can get around it.
 
For anyone in SA looking for somewhere to get their ECUs socketed have a look at this ad on Gumtree - http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/port...ing-nistune-board-install-services/1040186793. Nathan did the sockets on my ECU and his work is fantastic. Very quick, friendly, good solders, tests the solders thoroughly and best of all he does it for $100. You can get the sockets from Aztronics in the city for a couple of bucks each - http://www.altronics.com.au/p/p5590-oupiin-32-pin-surface-mount-plcc-socket/. Nathan also owns his own fabrication business and does stainless snorkels, intercooler piping, etc.
 
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I'll be doing some more tweaking now it's been on the dyno and I know where the AFRs can be improved. I'll keep you updated.
 
Hey Rumpig,
great results on the dyno.
was that running with your water/meth injection on?

I dropped off my spare ECU to Kevin at EFI autoparts on Friday, so should get it back by about Tuesday. I can't wait to try it out.
For anyone wanting to find him in Welshpool rd (Perth) you have to go into the auto electrician shop that says they specialise in Air conditioning and ask the receptionist there to get Kevin for you.
It seems he has a workshop upstairs above the aircon crowd, and it's not all that obvious. (no signage)
 
The last two runs were at 21psi, the 109kw one was with the water injection on, 40% meth 10 gallon an hour nozzle.
 
Well, I finally got my socketed ECU back yesterday, from Kevin at EFI autoparts. It looks like he did a neat job, and only $120 + return postage. It took him longer than expected to finish as he had to go away unexpectedly, but I'm happy with the end result.

So today I swapped the ECU's over (simple 5 minute job) and went for a quick drive.
The first thing I noticed is how much earlier in the rev range the turbo develops boost.
Beforehand I had to rev the engine to about 3000 rpm to see 15 lbs on the boost gauge, now I'm getting that at around 2000 rpm.
I only had a chance for a short drive today, but it definately has an improvement.
I think the EGT's have increased a little bit, but not too badly. I saw 600 degrees, but that was pretty hard acceleration, uphill, with a trailer on at 90 odd KMH.

Overall, great job Rumpig. It's a bit hard to know exactly how much better yet because I just can't help flooring it everywhere! once the newness/ novelty factor starts to wear off I'll be able to judge the fuel economy etc.

Thanks Rumpig for a top job.
P.S. have you named/numbered different versions of tunes as they are evolving?
 
Sort of. I've been making minor changes and then i'll stick it on the dyno again. and then post those bin files on the forum as base maps that everyone can use.
 
Tested an ecu today I bought to socket and it drives differently to my original. My original is a 2005 and the spare a 2006 same part number. The car is the same under acceleration by takes far longer to drop revs when I shut the throttle. Do I need to calibrate the throttle to the ecu with a zd30?

There different numbers on the eeproms also.
 

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accelerator idle position

I will give this a go before doing the sockets just to see if it makes a difference.
 

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The last number on mine is different to yours as well, it's probably an ecu identifier number. There is a procedure for doing a Throttle position sensor relearn and that is probably stored in the ecu, so that might be why they seem to drive different. Never noticed it when I tested my replacements.
 
Did the sockets myself. Had a dry join that took 2 hrs to find and fix. Just went for a quick drive and what a difference. Great work rumpig I can't wait to do some more driving. I also now realise why I didn't need 2 sets of chips. The originals when desoldered are compatible with the sockets and can be used. Although a 2nd set makes testing easier.
 
Having that extra torque earlier makes them so much better to drive, you don't need to rev the tits of it.
 
Please stop writing how well the car drives after the mod is applied!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1!!!

I am getting crazy while waiting for the EPROM, PLCC32 Air Nozzle and PLCC socket to arrive.

EPROM programmer not yet found...


Btw.: I have decided to unsolder the EPROMs myself and not to buy another ECU but to use the one in my car.
 
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Ooooo that's risky. If you mess it up your car won't be going anywhere real fast haha. For the sake of $40 I get a second hand one it was worth it
 
To remove the original eeproms I decided not to buy an air gun. I used a gas powered soldering iron and set the temp to Approx. 350 C using a thermocouple. I protected the board and other components with foil. I used a circular motion and lightly held the chip with long nose pliers. It took a while but when ready the chip lifted cleanly. I did make a video but discovered that it showed me wearing the misses pink reading glasses so it's gone.
 
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Classic dtr19.

abc, I use an MCUmall GQ-4X chip reader/writer. There are cheaper ones but this is easy to use. When you order your chips they need to be the same speed or faster. Peel the sticker off the original chip to see what they are.
 
use. When you order your chips they need to be the same speed or faster. Peel the sticker off the original chip to see what they are.

Will faster chips make the car even more faster? :D

I have ordered the TL 866 CS programmer. It costs around 55€ and can do all (so they claim). There is also a forum entry on eeev blog. People like this device.

Chips ordered right now. At same place as you have posted in the beginning. When everything arrives, I will do some burning :)
 
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Once you've read the chips post the bins and i'll compare it to the Patrol bins and see if it identifies all the maps as the same.
 

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