Petrol vs diesel

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fatman

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Hi all, my Japanese built V6 petrol d22 is starting to get a bit old, it's about to hit 300,000kms. So I have been looking at a new d22, I am a bit worried as my v6 petrol has been incredibly reliable over the years (still going fine aswell) only ever had one timing problem which was fixed quickly, it is very thirsty though (I put long range tank in for long journeys) but because the vehicle is mainly a work vehicle I have not had to pay for fuel, I am interested in a new diesel Navara as mine has plenty of battle scars and the touring range would be extended well (with new long range tank).

My issue is with build quality and reliability, I am worried that by getting a Thai built truck the quality control is not quite as good and my other worry is that diesels don't seem to be diesels anymore, a diesel used to get millions of worry free kms and come back for more, the simplicity of older diesels meant you could pretty much drive underwater but now they seem to be making them as advanced and powerful as possible, dramatically shortening engine life to that of a petrol if not worse, and on top of that they are more complex and expensive than a full v6 petrol to fix and maintain, it used to be that if you want long term reliability you get the diesel, if you want power you get the petrol, now all that's left on the market is a strange mix of both that will die Early and is not as powerful as a petrol (hp wise)
I guess what I'm asking is the yd25 a properly reliable engine,what is the build quality like on the new Utes, and what do you think I should do, shell out for a new Navara+accessories or refresh my petrol one and save for a engine ect and do it all over again? I would love to hear from anyone who has clocked up heaps of kms with the yd25 to give me peace of mind that it would be worth the money to buy brand new. Thanks heaps people - Fatman
 
As a personal preference, I wouldn't buy a yd25 unless I was willing to drop a duplex timing chain straight in, as they are known shortfall for the engine and can have issues even a low kms.

I have a ZD30, the early models 00-03 have piston issues but seem to be updated from 04-06. If you want simplicity of a diesel engine with old school direct injection, why not try and get an 06 model with decently low Kms, this is the last of the ZD30 models sold. This way you dont have to worry about common rail issues etc. Only downside to ZD30s are they are known for shitty turbochargers but they are the same on the yd25, they begin to squeel when about to let go and you can always take of the front housing and look at the fins to gauge damage. ZD30 has serious blowby, so blocking the EGR and getting a catch can will extend your engine life. Also the ZD30 has the Bosch VP44 fuel pump which can be ordinary as the electronics module often goes in them due to heat exposure or the like. This can be expensive to replace.
 
I don't tow so I have never needed more grunt... especially in the bush (too much torque digs holes) also the diesels have weaker running gear, I'm just looking for reliability cause If I get a new Nav I will be keeping it for at least ten years.

There was an Na 3.0 diesel which would be what I'm looking for (minus the piston issues) the only problem is I can only get brand new, or keep my v6 :( I could get a low km vg33 from about $1200 to $3500 and sit on it till mine goes pop then swap it over....I wish the market had a a strong old school style na diesel for long term reliability and economy that I could make water proof ect, it seems strange shoving such technical motors in what is essentially a 90s model ute. Isn't that the whole point of a ute anyway. simplicity and reliability
thanks heaps for the info fellas
 
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i have the d40 with the petrol v6 (vq40) converted to lpg, no problems and plenty of power (198kw from the factory) you'd probably pick one up with low k's pretty cheap considering nearly everyone wants a diesel. probably cost less then a new d22 too
 
Hey Fatman, if your old girl is still going well at 300k I would hang onto it. My previous V6 was faultless apart from a faulty crank angle sensor. The Thai built model I have now was plagued with rattles and faulty body mounts. With a bit of time and help from people here I have built it into a basic looking rig that does the job well. I am more concerned about the V9X being dropped and the auto still not fixed with it's niggling issues. I do believe there is a company south of Brisbane working on the V9X gearbox to alleviate this, when I hear more I will update the 550 section with their details.
 
If it's served you so well it'd just treat it to a set of 30 thou over pistons, new injectors and a set of suspension bushes and keep it.

To many Monday and Friday cars of every make and model being built these days!
 
I'm definitely starting to lean that way now, keeping my petrol, fitting a front air locker, some new bilstein shocks, rubber bushes, and start hunting for a low k vg33 that I can chuck some cams in and maybe bore it out if I don't pop mine in the next 100,000kms, thanks heaps fellas
 
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I'm definitely starting to lean that way now, keeping my petrol, fitting a front air locker, some new bilstein shocks, rubber bushes, sunraysias and start hunting for a low k vg33 that I can chuck some cams in and maybe bore it out if I don't pop mine in the next 100,000kms, thanks heaps fellas

Yeah keep the VG33. Mine does all that I want from it. And it passes everything, except the Servo lol
 
Yeah keep the VG33. Mine does all that I want from it. And it passes everything, except the Servo lol

Yeah mate that's what I've decided, I've also decided to keep the hideous standard 4 spoke alloys because steelies weigh too much and aren't necessarily any stronger, I've also scrapped the idea of boring and camshafts as it might shorten the reliability of the vg, on the yank forums they are saying there is a fair amount of vg frontiers cruising around with 400,000 on the clock (miles!) so why change a good thing.
 
The only real problem with a petrol fourby is water, I shit bricks whenever there is more than 40cms worth of water cause all my sensors, distributor ect can **** up leaving me stranded (potentially in the creek)
 
Drench all electricals in WD40 before you cross, if you make a day of it with plenty of crossings pack it all in petroleum jelly. Worked a treat in my V6, 3ft water no problems...
 
Or even a fine smear of silicon around all electrical connections that has worked for me plus the WD-40 as a Final back up when going through water crossings.
Have had water up over my bonnet no problems..(well not so far fingers crossed)
 
If you can get some electronic grease. Seals a treat. Use it on new cars on pre delivery never have a connection turn shit yet.
 
Sell it and buy a diesel. Problem solved

A+ ,That was the whole point of this thread...general consensus is the vg33 is a lot more reliable, also my vg33 gets the same fuel economy as my brothers d40 auto yd25 on the highway, costs a lot less to service and maintain, and has a bulletproof drivetrain, the whole thing was assembled correctly with out the use of chimpanzees with pipe wrenches and the new diesels aren't like the old ones in water anyway. Au revoir
 

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