d22 starting and reving but not idling

Nissan Navara Forum

Help Support Nissan Navara Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Zacho

Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2014
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Location
Dubbo
G'day my Nissan navara is starting and will rev up but as soon as it goes to idle it stops. I have changed the fuel filter and air filter, checked all fuses, checked to make sure egr valve wasn't stuck open and a few other things.. I was wondering has anyone had issues like this before and does anybody have any ideas, cheers
 
Is the turbo spinning freely? Have you tried resetting the ECU? Not sure how far to go with advice because early D22s had mechanical injection, not computer-controlled. Which model do you have?
 
I took the battery off for 20 mins then re fitted it (I'm assuming that's how you reset the ecu on these, I haven't checked the turbo.. It's a 2008 d22 2wd with a yd25
 
Sounds like a tps issue. Could be the accelerator pedal sensor. Did resetting the ecu help or no change? It might be worth unplugging the connector from the accelerator pedal and spraying a bit of crc or something in there to make sure the connection is clean.
 
No change after resetting the ecu.. I'll give the tps idea a try but I'd find it a little strange if it faulted the way it is from that.
 
Anything's possible.. did it just randomly happen? Apparently you can reset the tps on the zd30 by idling it for 10 min, not that it helps you if it can't idle though... but there has to be a way to reset the tps on the yd25s...
 
This is true I'll have a play with it all in morning please let me know if you or anyone else has any other thoughts!!
 
Best way to reset the ECU (because residual power can keep the ECU memory stable for hours) is to remove the battery negative then press the brake pedal. Only takes a single press, for a second. No lights will come on, but every last shred of power will be gone.

Let's see what happens with that, the TPS connector (try some electrical contact cleaner first, then CRC it) and the turbocharger check.
 
the yd25 has a reset procedure which reset the fuel "adjustment". meant to be done only have major injection work, but have seen issues after fuel filter replacement and the rest fixed it.
its on this site somewhere.

could be idle switch failure but i would have expect ecu to flag a fault.

does it run ok if you hold it just above idle?
 
reseting the ecu by unplugging battery terminals resets the fuel pump "memory" as well. To carry out the reset carry out the following

Turn ingnition on so all dash lights come on.

Wait 3 seconds

PUMP accelerator pedel 5 times within 5 seconds....

with foot now OFF accelerator wait 7 seconds...

After 7 seconds press and hold down accelerator pedel for 10 seconds...

Atfer 10 seconds the Engine Managment Light will start to flash, at this point remove foot from accelerator.

the Nav is now in diag mode, so let the EML flash for a bit. the press and hold the acclerator pedel down for more than 10 seconds..this will then reset ECU and fuel pump etc......and put them into learning mode.

NOTE: When the EML light is flashing, this is listing possible fault codes... so if you know how to read the fault codes or know the sequences then you can figure out any possible faults with your Nav with out getting the dealer to do it!!
 
It runs ok when its revved up however, when it's between 2600-3000 there's a noise that sounds like an idler on its way out but I'm not a hundred
Percent sure where it's coming from
 
I'm still wondering about the turbo. At those engine RPM the turbo should be nearing full revs itself. That should be around full boost or near to it (it should be at full song around 3500rpm). If the turbo bearings are shot, you'd expect it to be making shrieking noises at lower revs - but if there was a chip or crack on either the turbine or the impeller it could make very loud (and unwelcome) noises as it comes up to full boost. Neither impeller nor turbine damage would prevent idle unless the they were rubbing the housing. It's imperative to check the turbocharger because rubbing is a prelude to turbocharger destruction.

A boost leak might also cause the noise - and may not be related to the inability to idle.

I'm concerned about the turbo. If it is rubbing and not spinning properly, it won't rotate freely and at idle it may not rotate at all - forming a large restriction in the intake. That might also be the source of the odd noise at higher revs.

Please look at the turbo!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top