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Rakers! Are they an LA basketball team??

Picked the Husky up on Thursday, been cuuting my brains out today. Thing just goes & goes. Been cutting thru stuff I didn't think I'd be able to, just let it eat its way through, take it easy.

Uses heaps of chain oil, gonna have to take at least 4 litrs of that when I go away. I'd say it uses 1 part fuel to 3 parts chain oil.
 
Rakers! Are they an LA basketball team??

Picked the Husky up on Thursday, been cuuting my brains out today. Thing just goes & goes. Been cutting thru stuff I didn't think I'd be able to, just let it eat its way through, take it easy.

Uses heaps of chain oil, gonna have to take at least 4 litrs of that when I go away. I'd say it uses 1 part fuel to 3 parts chain oil.
Sounds like you need to ajust the chain oiler screw.Start it run at full rpm and point the tip of a bar at a log the oil should weep on acceleration and cover the log with a "very" light spray.Anything else is overoiling back the ajuster a few turns anticlockwise that should fix it.
 
General rule is 1 tank petrol = a tank of oil. Around my place we have a lot of stringy barks, if I,m cutting up a green stringy bark I put a splash of diesel in my chain oil just to thin it out and make it run a bit quicker, saves adjusting the oiler if it's set right in the first place
 
It's the baby one, the 236, 14" bar. I look at it and think, why did I buy something so small, but it's cutting stuff bigger than I was hoping to cut, I'm cutting up 4 gums we had dropped 12 months ago. I cut 3/4's thru on one side then roll it over and finish the cut.

It's a good unit.
 
^ same one I've got. Little bewty for $250. Nothing bogs it down. Just wants to rip everything a new arse
 
im not trying to hijack your page but can I ask a question about my Dolmar CA chain saw I need to service it but I don't know much about it. I have been using it for a few years and I think it needs a service. can anyone tell me what I need for it and where I can get the parts from.
 
Husky 236 is a re-badged Poulan.

Kelvinator own Husky, J'Red, Poulan & McCulloch.
 
don't look past the echo brand of saw, have a larger 80cc 20 inch and hasn't given any trouble for 15 years. a chain sharpening guide plate is a must as well.
 
Have to agree............ Echo are very, very good saws! I have a 350TES which is my "go to saw"

I also rate Dolmar (Makita) very highly.

:)
 
I've had Homelite, Dolmar and now Stihl. When my Stihl dies I'll be visiting the Husky shop. I don't want cheap, and I don't want unreliable.

I'm not saying my Stihl is any trouble at all, but I'm wanting a larger saw.

Then I'd stay well away from the Husky auto tune models! They're hopeless in our climate.

Not sure what size saw you have, but if you're not looking to upgrade to a mega CC saw like a Stihl 880 or a Husky 120, then I'd say a Makita 7901 is pretty hard to beat for value & performance. If that's still too big, then IMO the Makita 6401 is the best value saw in the 65cc range & you can put an 84cc after market pot on it if you want to upgrade later.

I run a 7901 with a 24" bar & also a Stihl MS660 with a 32" bar, but I find the 7901 pretty much does everything I need it to - the 660 spends most of it's life in the shed.

I used to run a couple of mid range saws as well, a Stihl MS260C & a Husky 346XP, but I found that my Echo 350T's would cut right up to where I need the 7901, so I sold the mid range saws.
 
I'm not a lumberjack (so I guess I'm not really ok ... but that's a different song) so I won't be needing something like the MS880 - 42" bar? Oh no thanks. I need to cut firewood. Trees up to about half a metre across, maybe a little more, sectioned into lengths about 300-400mm for splitting. I'm thinking about half to 2/3 of that size - something like the MS660 would be enough.

My Stihl is doing okay but labours, and I know it won't last if I keep cutting like crazy (and burning through 2-3 sections like that a day in the fireplace). A Makita is worth looking at? I'd never have thunk it. I doubt I'll ever look at upgrading the motor in it, I'll buy it for what it is and use it until I kill it.

That's what I've done so far - and intend to continue, but would like them to last a little longer!
 
I'm not a lumberjack (so I guess I'm not really ok ... but that's a different song) so I won't be needing something like the MS880 - 42" bar? Oh no thanks. I need to cut firewood. Trees up to about half a metre across, maybe a little more, sectioned into lengths about 300-400mm for splitting. I'm thinking about half to 2/3 of that size - something like the MS660 would be enough.

My Stihl is doing okay but labours, and I know it won't last if I keep cutting like crazy (and burning through 2-3 sections like that a day in the fireplace). A Makita is worth looking at? I'd never have thunk it. I doubt I'll ever look at upgrading the motor in it, I'll buy it for what it is and use it until I kill it.

That's what I've done so far - and intend to continue, but would like them to last a little longer!

I just typed quite a long reply but it disappeared! :(

So, here we go again, albeit a little more brief; MS880 is a very good firewood saw, but more than a tad big for 500mm cross cut logs lol! Same goes for an MS660 - too big. The Makita 7901($1,250) would do it very quickly, but it's really overkill for that size timber too! :)

A Makita 6401 (made in Germany by Dolmar) retails for less than $800 & would do the job very well. It's the same saw as a 7901 with a smaller pot on it. I doubt that you or I could kill one in under 20 years if we did basic maintenance on it!

The old Husky 365 is a similar saw, but no longer made & was more expensive anyway.

Tony, no offence meant mate, so please don't take any, but If your saw is labouring (bogging) either you are using an inappropriate saw for that size timber, or your chain is blunt, or your depth gauges aren't right, or your technique needs attention.

If you aren't already, try sharpening with a file every time before you use the saw & every time you re-fuel. I sharpen to 30 degrees. I find 25 too hard on me using the saw & 35 makes the chain skate along the timber. Try dropping the depth gauges by 4 strokes with an 8" bastard file. Some will say 2 is enough, but I prefer 4. If you don't tidy up the depth gauges, even a sharp chain won't cut wood! If you drop them too far, the saw will bog & the chain will blunt up prematurely.

The big thing is that if you hit ANY dirt/concrete/bricks/humus etc, stop, change the chain for a spare & sharpen the damaged chain on a bench grinder at home.

Then there is chain type; semi chisel is far better than full chisel in hard wood. Full chisel will blunt up too quickly in hard wood. There is a place for safety chain too, in the bin!

Stihl generally uses 3/8 or .325 chain at either 043, 050, or 063 gauge. If you have a small saw (say 60cc or smaller) 063 is too wide. It's like trying to tow a semi with a mini cooper! .043 has too narrow a kerf & will keep filling up with timber because it's not clearing chips properly. For small Stihls such as a 201/241/261/280 .325 pitch with .050 gauge works a treat IMO.

The Makita's run 3/8 .058 chains which work well for them.

I buy my bars, chains & bits from an on line business in the Riverland here in SA. He is a great guy & a straight shooter. They cost a fraction of what the Stihl shops charges & are promptly delivered to my door. He is on Arboristsite (user name MCW) or if you want, PM me & I'll send you his details.

Oh............... and..................... I'm a lumberjack...................... well, tree lopper actually! ;)
 
Just had another thought about your saw bogging; are you leaning on it in the cut? If so, try not doing so. Let the saw do the work.

Cheers mate,

Kevin.
 
Awesome advice, Kevin, thanks!

I don't lean on the saw, but I don't sharpen it as religiously as that, plus I was advised to use 35 degrees ... AND I've got the .043 chain which doesn't spit the stuff out much shortly after it's new. Basically I'll take two chains out with me, cut up a couple of tankfuls of timber on each chain and come back.

Oh, I've found out about dirt the hard way. Had to get a tree down and OUT, used a bobcat with a trench digger to scoot around the base of the trunk then took 50mm wide hunks out of the major roots, then pushed the tree over with the bobcat. Used both chains in about 5 minutes like that, had to sharpen the ruddy things again while they were hot (bobcat hire by the hour - bugger!). Thankfully had my Navara nearby with its inverter and 240V chainsaw sharpener with me.

Should I stop using the electric sharpener, or just set it to 30 degrees, and hit the depth gauges with a couple of extra strokes?

I might just go a bigger chain on my Stihl if it'll take it. It's an MS180 or something little like that. It's tiny anyway, but it's convenient and mostly does the job. Some of the hardwood around here does take a hammering - I've tried cutting it with a brand new bow saw and it's like trying to cut through steel. Every time my Stihl goes slow, I take a look over at the bow saw (which I always have with me for Justin) and breathe a sigh of relief!
 
that's some great advise kevin
what about the possibility of your mixture screws needing adjustment?
if its bogging down up high turn the screw marked High IN (clockwise) one eight of a turn
if that makes it worse return screw to orig pos and then wind OUT one eight of a turn
these 2 stroke saws are fiddly at the best of times

cheers
 
I might fit the bigger chain to it and take it out next weekend to collect some more wood and see how it performs - might not have to go far if we can get an arborist in to bring the mahogany down, which we need to do in order to get the rest of the yard work done.
 
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