Blowing Smoke

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Old.Tony

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Despite having a DPF, my car's blowing a bit of smoke at the moment. I am fairly close to the answer now, but let me go over a few details that led me along the way.

We noticed that under mild acceleration, boost would gradually build up to normal levels, but when trying to get moving from a stop (and we were towing the caravan when this started) rather than accelerate, we'd just fill the road behind with smoke. Yes, I'm sure this isn't doing the DPF very well.

I first thought that it was either of two possibilities (not discounting other possible causes, but as usual starting with the least expensive). First, a cracked/loose vacuum hose or a faulty actuator control solenoid. I should add that about a week ago, I had to stop driving because I was suddenly creating a large plume of blue smoke which disappeared fairly quickly. So, today ...

I decided that the blue smoke - which hasn't come back - may have been caused by a bubble of oil that was ejected from the intercooler. That may have been the case. After removing the grille and the two bolts that hold the intercooler plus the two hose clamps holding the hoses onto the plastic end "tanks", the intercooler came out fairly easily. Inside was completely black.

The fifth wash with petrol wasn't as black as the first four. I suspect I could have washed it some more, but a look inside showed nice clean metal so I considered the task finished for now.

Here's a shot of the intercooler on the top of the engine bay.

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I then proceeded to replace all of the vacuum hosing. There are several pieces to replace, described as follows:

1) From the vacuum pump on the right-hand side of the engine (just below the fuel filter) to the tube furthest from the electrical connection on the solenoid. This passes over the top of the engine engaging several clips to hold it in position (both to keep it off the engine and to stop it rubbing against stuff).

2) From the turbocharger actuator to the next tube in towards the electrical connector on the solenoid.

3) From the last (third) tube on the solenoid to the air intake.

I had spare tubing from 3m of 3mm tube. Starting the engine and watching the actuator working proved that I'd at least put it back together in the right order.

So with a clean(ish) intercooler and the vac hosing replaced and tested (obviously the solenoid's working too, or the actuator wouldn't have been moving at all) I expected to be able to drive the car and not experience any smoke.

Nope.

Similar cause and effect. If I built boost slowly, she'd behave. If I tried to belt her, she'd develop about 6psi and no more. Back off, let the turbo spool up gradually - full boost again.

I can only think now that there are two things happening there. First, when over-throttling and seeing the boost stall, it's likely that there's not enough combustion occuring (not enough air) to drive the turbocharger any harder - so it's an endless loop. It's overcome by backing off and letting the engine build up gradually.

It leads me to think that there are only a couple of possibilities now.

1) Another sensor (boost most likely) is faulty. I'm thinking not, because once the turbo comes up to speed, everything behaves normally.

2) The turbocharger is unable to spool up quickly enough. This might be a sticky bearing, or turbine blades that are either caked so badly with muck they're unable to be propelled properly by the exhaust.

So tomorrow I'm going to start examining the turbocharger. Or do the lawn. Or both. I may have to replace the bearings in it - it's a job I might get someone else to actually do, I'm still in considerable pain after falling from a ladder and I don't think I want to work on something that needs to spin near 100,000rpm to work properly.
 

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No good tony.
The yd25s are smoke blowers at the best of times.
 
Yeah they do but the blue smoke is a worry. Maybe do the lawns tomorrow at least you know you'll get it sorted :)

Seriously all things aside, if there is blue smoke out the tail pipe it's gotta be oil in the combustion. Interesting with the boost stalling. I'm wondering if there is some restriction on the inlet to the turbo , like flexible pipe from the air cleaner to turbo inlet collapsing under harder acceleration and when it does it's creating some vacuum or negative pressure pulling a little oil past the turbo charger labyrinth seal when it does so. The seal on the compressor side might not be as good as it use be.

There is one guaranty when it comes to turbo diesel engines- The turbo rarely lasts as long as the engine.

Could be way off beam but just a thought
 
Mother nature has, during the night, nicely wet the grass. It's cooch, so it's going to gum up the mower rather badly. Fantastic. Looks like my choices are down to car repairs or movies.

The blue smoke lasted a very short while, which is why I suspect a bubble of oil bursting through from the intercooler which has been faithfully collecting oil since the car was new (220,000km ago). I did have a catch can on it for a brief time, but I've lost the mount and the sight glass has been broken (we've moved house and finding stuff is not easy). I do not suspect any issues with the engine.

I did examine the hoses and the air filter box. I even removed the air filter box, extracted the baffles and put the covers back on. I cleaned the MAFS, checked the hosing, examined the air path through the guard - all is good on that side. The intake hose between the air filter box and the turbocharger is mostly that solid plastic and it's still quite firm.

If it's not an actuator fault (leaky/dirty diaphragm) then I'm thinking the journal bearings may be slightly worn, causing the turbocharger shaft to shimmy as it starts to rev. This will cause it to stall - and the destruction of the turbo won't be far away unless I get those bearings replaced. Thankfully I'll be able to tell when I pull the hosing away from the turbocharger later this morning and check the impeller. If it is those bearings, it will also explain the additional oil being burned.

At least now, at 220,000km of age, my engine is still running smoothly. My fluid couple has gone again - I'm so tired of that - but I'm going to remove it and rebuild it. The bimetal coil is external on the front leaving just the valve heading to inside, so testing it is really simple. I do have a small amount of silicon oil (the rest is in the shock absorbers for my Kyosho McLaren) so if the fluid needs topping up/replacing I'll probably wait until Newcastle Toymotor is open tomorrow and get some from them (since Toymotor is supposed to be the only company that recognises that fluid couple oil might need replacing and actually sell the oil, other manufacturers just sell you a new coupling).

We're also going to look at a new radiator. Towing 2.5T up some of the steepest hills in NSW showed us that we need something better. I was sent a link to some aluminium racing radiators in the past, I'll now revisit those and start placing an order for one. I've already separated the transmission oil cooler, so this will be a fairly easy task.

I have been considering removing the mechanical fan altogether and moving to a pair of electric fans (or even 3 of them, there's already one in the bottom right corner of the radiator). This would allow me to have them operating in a similar fashion to the mechanical one (turning on only when the temperature climbs over a certain level, like 80C) or manually bring one or more online.

Just on those fans - Supercheap Auto sell them in sizes from 10 inches to 16 inches. Now naturally I'd like some more modern stock since we've been using metric since 1976, but the smaller 10 inch fan draws 7.5A and I would need 3 of those to cool the system down. That's over 20A I have to feed - my alternator (also recently replaced with an aftermarket 130A unit) is already working hard when towing, sending up to about 50A to the tub and trailer (not full-time). I'm still considering it - I'll save a little on engine power and will have better control over them.
 
Looking at those cooling fans from Supercheap ... well, that's not going to work.

A performance mob in the USA have published some info on air flow restrictions and what they mean to the fan. They say that typically, the restrictions are between 0.5 and 0.7 inches of water (that's how they measure it).

So, on to the specs page for the Calibre electric fans. They push 700cfm of air - at zero load. Great? Nope. At 0.4 cu in of water restriction, they just scrape over 150cfm and they don't even chart for 0.5 cu in of water. Since my car has a transmission oil cooler, intercooler, aircon condenser and radiator, I'm willing to bet that my air flow restriction is going to be on the high side of that 0.5-0.7 range.

Electric fans won't be for me, so it's a rebuild of the fluid couple.
 
Have you considered therme fans from a falcon tony? The ba's had a twin setup of which 1 or both could run at high or low speed. From bf2 onwards they went to a large single fan. It might be worth looking into the sizing of them to see if they are suitable. Obviously the automatic turbo versions of them had an intercooler in front of the radiator as well as transmission oil cooler, which i believe was mounted either to the side of the engine or gearbox, but still had a coolant feed to it, so the heat load on the radiator would be the same. Those fans flow a hell of a lot of air, so as long as the dimensions are right that may be an option. I have heard of people fitting them to patrols, but I'm not sure what the radiator size difference is between them and the navaras...
 
I haven't considered those, because I didn't know about them. I'd still need to know if they'd fit, and how many amps they draw.

Word on the turbocharger is NOT good. About half a mm play side-to-side on the shaft, so I'm going to get myself a bearing kit for it. A quick search shows that eBay has several bearing kits available.

I guess I'll get busy with the camera too.
 
I will have a look and see what I can find out about the fans. Current draw shouldn't be excessive I wouldn't have thought, but I will post up what I can find.

Edit : To add to this, from reading a bit on ford mods, the el thermo fan setup draws about 33a for each fan under full load after having run for a while and heating up. The factory ecu in them has 3 different speed settings depending on how much cooling is required, so this would vary the current draw. I will see what I can find out as far as sizes go.

Another edit haha : this may be of a little help regarding au thermo fans anyway...
http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/...with-electric-fans-performance-benifit/page-2
If they fit in skylines I would assume they would fit in a navara, but I am still looking into that part haha
 
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