Anyone interested in D22 recovery points?

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Was thinkin the same thing Daz. Tweake'e, I like your theory but do you think the hook will actually straighten before it comes out the chassis, realizing it's strong enough to take a pull? There's no point trying if the hooks not gonna straighten.
Just got a text off the boss, day off 2moro woot woot! So I might investigate a bit further...
Cheers

odds are the light chassis will break before the hooks bend. but a big part of using hooks is that your not using shackles, which is where a lot of failures and projectiles come from.

Ok, if you see the attached pic you'll see the 2 bolt holes that we have available. Now, see the big nut just below them, there is a square piece of steel behind that nut and washer about 50mm x 50mm.
It looks like a spacer or something (?). If I removed that and put a piece of angle (min 10mm thick) and used that nut as well as the 2 bolt holes, that is obvioulsy going to make the mount to the chassis stonger.
........

something like this ??

d22hook2.jpg
 
Yeah tweak'e, I seen that pic in the other thread. Just got under the car and compared it to mine, think I see it now, I thought yours was different but I'm guessing that pic I put up before is something to do with the bullbar? Do you have the 2 tie down holes on yours that sit forward of that about 250mm?
Where that square and nut are on my pic, I don't think that's part of the chassis is it? So I could drill that and basically... you were right all along!
 
the hook is bolted to the tie down point. on yours they bolted the bull bar to the tie down holes, which is slack. one of our utes has front bars and i think it uses the existing holes to bolt to. the tie down point is partly clear.

the tie down point is welded to the chassis and is far thicker than what the chassis is.

the problem with using the tie down points is leverage. very easy to twist the chassis which is why i beefed it up.
 
Yeah no worries, so the tie down holes I see are actually part of the bullbar assembly? Coz that must be at least 6 or 7mm thick I would think.
I think I'll give it a crack and just remove the square spacer, but I won't use angle I'll get it folded, because there is a couple of weld that may inhibit the angle.
So, I guess it'll kinda look like one of those outback idea recovery points but will actually be the bracket to hold an open hook. Think it should work.
 
mmm think I'll worry about if I'm going to use the shackle setup or hook set up later..lol. Get this catch can of mine installed first.

However i have finished the drawing pretty much, so will post that tomorrow for anyone who is interested. Thanks Shaggy for confirming that dimension.

The point Shaggy has and measured has a slotted hole to allow for the discrepancies in hole centres ie/ 70-76mm. Should i add this slotted hole into the drawing or leave that dimension for people to work out for their own car?
 
Thanks Krafty, thats great.

There is the drawing guys in Krafty's link for anyone interested who may want to make their own recovery points. If anyone builds them off this drawing and finds a problem let me me now and ill update it.

Pete
 
I found the Outback Ideas recovery points today at Guest 4wd in Fairfield. $100 pair.
Had a lengthy chat to the bloke about all the above concerns and he was pretty happy with either using the 2 holes I currently have in the bullbar mount with an equaliser strap, or he said he'd never seen a point pulled out of a chassis before. Just his opinions of course but for the moment I might just go with the equalizer strap until something more defining and
more convincing comes up.
 
Anyone who has used the captive nuts in the chassis - Where did you get the M12 1.25 HT bolts from?
 
Bolt shop lol i use Bolt-Pro (Varsity Lakes, QLD) but every town should have a bolt shop. check out your yellow pages under Industrial Fasteners or the like.
 
Sweet jebus, I got some with flat washers and spring washers. Total = 10.70. Now just waiting for the recovery points to arrive in the mail to bolt up.
 
I,m going to print this out, and scrounge the scrap at work for some off cuts

Just make sure they hang low enough if you have bash plates. I had a set made up and with my bash plate, the hole sets a little high. The bash plate kinda covers some of the slotted hole, so getting shackles in might have been hard. I still haven't installed mine.

I would change the following dimensions;

40mm to 35mm (hole offset)
55mm to 60mm (hole offset)

The hole may even need to be lower again, i cant remember how much it was out. Just the heads up anyhow.


Pete
 
Just get a plate welded to the back to drop the point a bit and get longer bolts?
 
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