Overheating problem

[jonot]

I've tried cleaning with degreaser and acetone. This is where I'm at so far. I'm not sure how much more I can clean off, should I be using something else?

 

[c2fe3]

A quick search on you tube will help

 

[tweak'e]

looks ok to me. cracks are often fairly obvious. tho you can sometimes get them inside the ports etc.
i would throw it back on.

the fun bit is going to be all that rust. good chance the heater has been clogged up as it tends to flake off when overheated. use some radiator flush to break it all up and hopefully wash it out.

replaced the head gasket etc, be careful of that o ring in the front of the head. i would be inclined to use a dab of gasket sealant to stick that o ring (let it set) in place before putting the head on.

 

[jonot]

Thanks @tweak'e

Do you think the overheating is just from the broken separator plate in the water pump?

I was thinking of running a couple of flush cycles to try and clean some rust.

 

[dattorob]

Best stuff to clean it up incl. the rust is "AC Condenser coil cleaner (Acid pink liquid)" e.g. PINK STUFF. Just have to be careful safety wise when handling it. Think Naval Jelly is similar.

 

[tweak'e]

Thanks @tweak'e

Do you think the overheating is just from the broken separator plate in the water pump?

I was thinking of running a couple of flush cycles to try and clean some rust.

thats clearly the cause, looks like you may have gotten away with out cracking the heat. won't know for sure untill its all back together.

 

[c2fe3]

Do you have a standard exhaust ?

 

[jonot]

Do you have a standard exhaust ?

@c2fe3 no, I have 3 inch. Why do you ask?

 

[c2fe3]

From what I have found restriction and high temptures from the turbo as you know working range is about 10 psi
Most performance cars running 10 psi are 400 hp plus but that's petrol ,diesel is different normally .
The high temperatures in exhaust if restricted can cause lost of problems especially to the back of the engine being hotter than the front.

 

[tweak'e]

From what I have found restriction and high temptures from the turbo as you know working range is about 10 psi
Most performance cars running 10 psi are 400 hp plus but that's petrol ,diesel is different normally .
The high temperatures in exhaust if restricted can cause lost of problems especially to the back of the engine being hotter than the front.

not an issue with these engines. stock exhaust size is fine. (they actually run 15psi boost). they do not have a history of overheating.
for anyone wanting to reduce the risk of overheating on these, fit an intercooler.

 

[c2fe3]

OK good to know my boost gauge Max standard , with no bleeder is 16 and on free way 1800 to about 2800 is about 10 depending on load and pedal position
I read alot about egt temps keeping them low as possible but whoever it's good to know others with experience on here have had difference results cheers
Good note

 

[c2fe3]

Do you think 20 psi is safe standard for engines of 200 300 km mark
How do you run yours do you let it warm up and run down if so for how long

 

[tweak'e]

Do you think 20 psi is safe standard for engines of 200 300 km mark
How do you run yours do you let it warm up and run down if so for how long

boost is not such a big issue. eg my old hilux wastegate failed and stayed shut. was hitting 25psi+. zero gain in performance.
however the extra heat from the hot air is an issue, which is why intercooling is so critical, and spinning the turbo faster can cause failure.

intercool first, then look at adding more fuel.

 

[c2fe3]

Well there you go intercooler for me

 

[jonot]

I've got a forefront winch intercooler (small one), patrol turbo, custom airbox, BAET stage 2 (20 PSI). EGT gauge starts at 300 degrees, I can only get it over 400 if I really try. It usually sits under 350.

 

[jonot]

Ok. So I've got the old girl back together, the weekends aren't long enough. She won't start though.

Trouble shooting so far, I think no fuel. I've had a search and it seems the primers aren't great. TBH, I've never had to use a primer before and don't really know what I'm doing (just press, or unscrew / something else?).
The fuel lines only went back on yesterday, so I pulled the hose off after the primer and she was basically dry. I expected fuel to run out after 5 billion primer pumps.

Am I on the right track?

 

[tweak'e]

leave the primer outlet hose off when you prime the filter. pump until fuel comes out. if fuel doesn't come out the primers probably busted (fairly common). you may need to pump or compressed air to push fuel up to the filter.
once filter full, connect hose and pump the fill the injection pump.
you will also need to loosen one of the injector connections as the injectors tend to get air locked. you want fuel to come out when you crank it over. then tighten up and use full throttle when starting.

also i highly recommend vac testing the spill (as per the manual) before you do any of this.

 

[jonot]

G'day again. Life got in the way and this job has been on the back burner for a little while.

I've sorted out the fuel issue (thanks @tweak'e ).

I still couldn't get it to start, so I checked the fault codes with a paperclip and had:
• 0407 - crankshaft position sensor
• 0401 - ???
• 0406 - Intake air volume VNC system
• 0208 - cooling fan control

Before I started pulling things apart I figured I should clear the codes, crank the engine and then and recheck the codes.

Everything cleared except one - 0401. This doesn't come up in any list I can find. Has anyone seen it before?

 

[tweak'e]

0401 is intake temp sensor thats just before the air filter. check for broken cable.

 

[jonot]

Righto. That came off when I got a new airbox. The Nav was running fine for years without it.

I'm not sure what to look at next. Any thoughts?