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the d22 / 2.5 litre has quite enough torque for the vehicle size plus the engine displacement of 2500 cc. my ex ford courier 2.6 litre petrol ute would only go up this particular hill in 3 rd gear but the navara 2.5 diesel easily goes up this same hill in 4th gear.
 
Ah right yd25 sorry guys.
I work closely with a company that sells roo systems stuff down here in melb. Early on as in a couple of years ago there were issues with roo systems chips and software stuff.
Recently though they have fixed a lot of those issues. I will happily recommend them.

Lol roo systems spend ya money else where they don't stand by there product when it all gos to shit
 
the d22 / 2.5 litre has quite enough torque for the vehicle size plus the engine displacement of 2500 cc. my ex ford courier 2.6 litre petrol ute would only go up this particular hill in 3 rd gear but the navara 2.5 diesel easily goes up this same hill in 4th gear.

not really a god comparison. gearing makes a big impact and petrols almost always run different gearing.
my old hilux would do that hill in 5th, well it does almost all hills in 5th, its that low geared!
the early d22 2.5cr had taller gearing and was a bit of a dog.
 
the d22 / 2.5 litre has quite enough torque for the vehicle size plus the engine displacement of 2500 cc. my ex ford courier 2.6 litre petrol ute would only go up this particular hill in 3 rd gear but the navara 2.5 diesel easily goes up this same hill in 4th gear.

Yep good when going at highway speed and RPMs, but BAD BAD BAD getting off the mark. Its got nothing, infact it bogs right down, then goes fine once you approach 1800rpm - at which time I guess your building some boost.
 
I hear ya bad juju it not like that and probley a can of worms that did not need to be reopened just salt in the wounds and hate people being miss led like I was iv removed the post because that's how I'm sure it's been preceved at the end of the day a full remap is all the go in my mind also however finding some that is compadent rather then just capable are two diffenrnt things
 
Slip the clutch more and build up some boost before you launch it and they get off the line alright...
 
I've just started using the aircon for the first time coz it wasn't really hot when I bought the nav earlier in the year and omg it loses soooooo much power, so bad that I pretty much turn the aircon off just to take off now. Is this normal??
 
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Shut up u lol. I can cope without the aircon on but with is painful lol
Put an exhaust on it lol. Or a v8 maybe.... :/

Usually if you give it full throttle the aircon will cut out and cut back in when you back off... yes, that's a hint lol
 
I've just started using the aircon for the first time coz it wasn't really hot when I bought the nav earlier in the year and omg it loses soooooo much power, so bad that I pretty much turn the aircon off just to take off now. Is this normal??

Doesn't sound normal but I haven't driven the 2.5. Useless fact 87453, for every 5 degrees Celsius the temp goes up you loose 1% of horsepower. The difference in power I notice between 15c at night in the dry verses 35c daytime in the wet is quite significant.
 
I've always been a windows down kinda girl, I only use the aircon when it gets past mid 30s lol
 
you dont have to keep it running, just turn it on so the gas gets a bit of a run.not good for it to leave it sit for so long
 
After reading this thread Im going to make a few suggestions based on my experiences of getting power out of the YD25.

The biggest single gain in power you will get is from a chip, these cost anywhere from $300 for an ebay special all the way up to $2000 for a top of the line Unichip. You get what you pay for. There are also mixed result from ECU re-flashes but I don't have any experience on this so cannot comment.

Second biggest gain is boost pressure, a YD25 runs between 15 - 16psi stock. The stock intercooler is good till about 19- 20psi before an aftermarket unit is required. By running higher boost it will allow the turbo to spool quicker resulting in you reaching what is called WOT (wide open throttle) at lower rpm. It is also pretty cheap ($50) to buy and fit.

Third biggest gain is an intercooler. A large front mount or W2A will give you best results. I found that running a top mount with a thermo fan did bugger all. Maybe a slightly quicker spool time at low rpm. These can range from $200 for an ebay special to $3000 for a top of the line W2A from Laminova. Keeping intake temps cool is critical when running higher boost

Other mods that help:

Aftermarket turbo: the most common upgrade is the Forefront turbo. Due to its billet design and superior inducer wheel it will spool quicker than the stock turbo. As I have not purchased one I cannot comment on its performance. There are a few individuals running VNT or twin turbo setups however their results are not well documented.

EGR blocking/removal: Blocking this line will allow the turbo to spool at about 200rpm earlier. Complete removal, especially at the intake port will give slightly better results. Pretty cheap for $20 - $50 bucks.

Aftermarket exhaust: 2.5" - 3" is pretty common. biggest gain will be the dump pipe, can cost anywhere from $700 - $1500.

Airbox, Snorkel and Intercooler piping upgrade. Will help with turbo spool and reduce stock piping restriction, prices will vary depending what you get done.

Diff ratios: changing to a higher diff ratio will help you get off the line quicker at the expense of top end speed. 4.6's are ideal for turning 33's

Tyre Size: 33's are a lot harder to turn than 30's due to their weight and higher inertia.

Weight of the Nav: It can add up pretty quick. Dual batts 30kgs, steel front bar 50kgs, winch 30kgs, sliders 30kgs, rear bar 25kgs, draws 20kgs, canopy 15kgs, aftermarket fuel/water tank - anywhere between 50 - 150kgs. Tools and gear - up to 400kgs.
Carrying all this extra weight everyday adds up.

As you can see there are many factors which affect turbo lag and no 2 navs will be the same. Having a budget and goal on what you want out of your YD25 is the best place to start
 

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