D40 Stereo Install Gone Wrong. Please Help
- Thread starter Dwayno44
- Start date
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Okay, so here's how things went down this afternoon. No good news unfortunately:
Disconnected the stereo completely, and restored the earth wire to original condition, ie single earth wire to airconditioning control (original).
Disconnected the battery and stomped on the brake to attempt a system reset twice. No difference at all. Red immobiliser light on the dash.
Had a quick look around under the dash to try locate the bcm fuses as I'd read on another thread that there are 4 fuses for the bcm? Figured one of these may be blown. Couldn't locate them. Heard one of the control units trying to do something while I fumbled around. Essentially gave up. Too frustrated at this point.
I'm a bit stumped for what my next step is from here. I called a Nissan dealership today. They said I'd be better off speaking to an auto-sparky as it's not likely to be a key reprogramming issue, but from what I've read I'm thinking I need a new bcm, then to have the new bcm reprogrammed by Nissan??
Thoughts? Pleaseeeeee.
Sitting in the drivers seat of the car right now typing this. Heard a clicking noise from the dash. Looked up to see the immobiliser symbol flashing along with the clicking. Only for a second or two. Very strange.....
Disconnected the stereo completely, and restored the earth wire to original condition, ie single earth wire to airconditioning control (original).
Disconnected the battery and stomped on the brake to attempt a system reset twice. No difference at all. Red immobiliser light on the dash.
Had a quick look around under the dash to try locate the bcm fuses as I'd read on another thread that there are 4 fuses for the bcm? Figured one of these may be blown. Couldn't locate them. Heard one of the control units trying to do something while I fumbled around. Essentially gave up. Too frustrated at this point.
I'm a bit stumped for what my next step is from here. I called a Nissan dealership today. They said I'd be better off speaking to an auto-sparky as it's not likely to be a key reprogramming issue, but from what I've read I'm thinking I need a new bcm, then to have the new bcm reprogrammed by Nissan??
Thoughts? Pleaseeeeee.
Sitting in the drivers seat of the car right now typing this. Heard a clicking noise from the dash. Looked up to see the immobiliser symbol flashing along with the clicking. Only for a second or two. Very strange.....
The red flashing light is absolutely normal, it should do that - means the NATS is active. It should turn off when the ignition key is turned on.
There might be a few fuses for the BCM, and there are a few locations for fuses too!
There's the bank beside the glove box inside the cabin, and there are TWO in the engine bay.
First one is just behind the battery, and the other one is over near the ABS (and doesn't even look like a fuse box).
It would pay to check them, before forking out cash!
There might be a few fuses for the BCM, and there are a few locations for fuses too!
There's the bank beside the glove box inside the cabin, and there are TWO in the engine bay.
First one is just behind the battery, and the other one is over near the ABS (and doesn't even look like a fuse box).
It would pay to check them, before forking out cash!
Okay... So I've found a possible lead. One of the main fuses off the battery was blown - 140amp. Having this fuse blown, combined with the fact that the battery (which I've had no problems with prior) has been draining in no time at all while I've been testing, tells me that there is a short somewhere. May still be a bcm issue as well, but the plan is to at least try a replacement fuse with the stereo completely disconnected and see if I at least get some of the bcm functions back.
I've got a bit of a theory here, hear me out and let me know what you think....
The original stereo was earthed through the mounts to the chassis. The new unit, given that it has a separate earth wire, and given that it's an ebay job, would not be expecting to be earthed through the casing/mounts. My theory is that if there is some way that the power supplied to the unit could be earthing through the case/mounts, then that would explain why the stereo and car functioned perfectly when I first connected the earth, but all the faults began after I screwed the unit back into the mounts and out the dash surround back in place.
Plan of attack:
1. Replace blown 140A fuse with stereo completely disconnected. Pray for some function from the bcm.
2. Connect stereo and connect earth to chassis.
3. If the above works, perhaps try some form of insulation between the mounts and the head unit. Ie rubber washers
The original stereo was earthed through the mounts to the chassis. The new unit, given that it has a separate earth wire, and given that it's an ebay job, would not be expecting to be earthed through the casing/mounts. My theory is that if there is some way that the power supplied to the unit could be earthing through the case/mounts, then that would explain why the stereo and car functioned perfectly when I first connected the earth, but all the faults began after I screwed the unit back into the mounts and out the dash surround back in place.
Plan of attack:
1. Replace blown 140A fuse with stereo completely disconnected. Pray for some function from the bcm.
2. Connect stereo and connect earth to chassis.
3. If the above works, perhaps try some form of insulation between the mounts and the head unit. Ie rubber washers
camo.b
Member
After you replace the 140 amp fuse but Before you try anything else i would pull every fuse from the glove box before reconnecting the battery...if its discharging that is not a good thing...i would disconect your modified radio harness and pull all aplicable fuses from the box near the abs unit...at least if you do that i will in effect be disconnecting a lot of possible areas...i grab a clamp meter if you can (amp tester) or a voltmeter and check the current flow from the battery with the clamp meter...or test voltage of the battery before connecting...then test when connected but no key in ignition...work from there by refitting fuses...you sound like you have a short..and to blow a 140amp it could be big one...
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camo.b
Member
But to not blow any other fuses is a bit strange...
camo.b
Member
Ther is a little pull off door on the left..open the glovebox and you will see it...it has about 50 fuses in there and they are all small...sorry! Other one is left hand side towards the rear of the engine bay..its not labled but its black plastic lid will come off
A fast draining battery is a concern. Since the only work that was done was the harness modifications, that's the very first thing to check.
How did you modify the harness? There are several ways. You could get an adapter from the OEM connector to the aftermarket device and just plug it in. You could cut wires and then either a) solder them, b) crimp-connect them, c) crimp-join them or d) cut & twist.
In those latter cases, a) should be accompanied by heatshrink insulation. Crimping (for example, with one of these) is a bad habit because it can cut the wires (despite their sales pitch) and the cut & twist is not only mechanically unsound it's risking a short unless placed inside connectors like these.
Shame about that 140A fuse. Needs a fair whack to blow that thing, hopefully no damage was done.
How did you modify the harness? There are several ways. You could get an adapter from the OEM connector to the aftermarket device and just plug it in. You could cut wires and then either a) solder them, b) crimp-connect them, c) crimp-join them or d) cut & twist.
In those latter cases, a) should be accompanied by heatshrink insulation. Crimping (for example, with one of these) is a bad habit because it can cut the wires (despite their sales pitch) and the cut & twist is not only mechanically unsound it's risking a short unless placed inside connectors like these.
Shame about that 140A fuse. Needs a fair whack to blow that thing, hopefully no damage was done.
Just a quick update.
Replaced the 140A fuse today. $80 for a new unit. Spewing.
1. Completely removed the stereo and tested. All working fine. Car started, all functions restored.
2. Hooked up the stereo, outside of the mounts, and held the earth wire to the chassis. Stereo operated correctly. Car still able to start and all functions still working.
3. Removed small screw from stereo casing, mounted unit. All functions still working.
Such a relief to get the car happening again, without the need for an autosparky or new bcm.
Thank you so much to everyone on this forum for your input and assistance of the past week. You've all helped so much.
Cheers!!
Dwayne
Replaced the 140A fuse today. $80 for a new unit. Spewing.
1. Completely removed the stereo and tested. All working fine. Car started, all functions restored.
2. Hooked up the stereo, outside of the mounts, and held the earth wire to the chassis. Stereo operated correctly. Car still able to start and all functions still working.
3. Removed small screw from stereo casing, mounted unit. All functions still working.
Such a relief to get the car happening again, without the need for an autosparky or new bcm.
Thank you so much to everyone on this forum for your input and assistance of the past week. You've all helped so much.
Cheers!!
Dwayne
camo.b
Member
Love when things eventually go your way!! Good work mate!
Malicious
Member
Awesome news
I just read every post and being yhe auto soark you desperatly needed 3 months back i thought i would give you some advice, when doing a stereo instal i always put an eyelet terminal on the earth wire of the stereo and earth it with the brachet screws that hold the radio in place, never take earth or power from an aircon wiring etc, i would however take acc power from the 12v plug, but i dare say connecting your earth wire to the ac wiring would've popped the fuse in some way. But glad you got it all sorted. But as previously mentioned when things are operated or possibly operated by computers etc wored can appear to be an earth until such time as that function is used then there goes the eart and because the unit is earthing via the mounting screws it pops fuses, prime example is people using a wire that appears as earth from the factory wiring and then wondering why their tail lights aren't working, reason is because the wire they hooked into is a tail lights wire and earthed out through the unit popping the fusr.
