D40 Navara fuel injection pump issues

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4BYFOR

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Has anyone ever had issues with their injection pumps? What symptoms did you have? Currently I have rough idle and low idle revs also going into limp mode very often usually when stopped at the lights it will go into limp. Don't have an issue when it's going or put the pedal down to the floor just when idling.. I also have white smoke that comes out before the black smoke after take off if I have been idling too long. Injectors, scv, fuel filter and rail have been changed with no difference
 
White smoke usually means massive overfuelling, so much that it can't combust and more often than not it's caused by a failing/faulty injector. Obviously not the case here since you've changed your injectors.

Overfuelling also means "more fuel than there is air to allow complete combustion". I wonder if your turbocharger is spooling properly, or if there's a restriction, say in the intercooler (have you cleaned it?) or maybe the turbo vanes aren't responding properly?

I'd mention faulty EGR valves if yours wasn't blanked off already.

How's your MAFS? Can you borrow one from someone else and see if that fixes things? K&N filters - even oiled sparingly - may eject droplets and you might have just been unlucky.

If you're getting so much fuel that there's white smoke and the car drives normally once it's going, I'd suggest the pump itself is doing fine, it's more likely something controlling the pump (since you've replaced the rail then the pressure sensor is likely to be good).
 
Has anyone ever had issues with their injection pumps? What symptoms did you have? Currently I have rough idle and low idle revs also going into limp mode very often usually when stopped at the lights it will go into limp. Don't have an issue when it's going or put the pedal down to the floor just when idling.. I also have white smoke that comes out before the black smoke after take off if I have been idling too long. Injectors, scv, fuel filter and rail have been changed with no difference
What code are you getting...i was getting P0089 for a while there on idle only.it can refer to a few diffrent things tho....
 
Have you also shimmed the fuel rail pressure relief valve or is it standard still...only time ive had white smoke (and a lot of it... think blown engine in a nascar) was when the FR pressure relief was blocked/jammed open a bit.im assuming this made the injectors just dribble and most just went thru the exhaust...not even sure thats relevant but its my only white smoke story.
 
White smoke usually means massive overfuelling, so much that it can't combust and more often than not it's caused by a failing/faulty injector. Obviously not the case here since you've changed your injectors.

Overfuelling also means "more fuel than there is air to allow complete combustion". I wonder if your turbocharger is spooling properly, or if there's a restriction, say in the intercooler (have you cleaned it?) or maybe the turbo vanes aren't responding properly?

I'd mention faulty EGR valves if yours wasn't blanked off already.

How's your MAFS? Can you borrow one from someone else and see if that fixes things? K&N filters - even oiled sparingly - may eject droplets and you might have just been unlucky.

If you're getting so much fuel that there's white smoke and the car drives normally once it's going, I'd suggest the pump itself is doing fine, it's more likely something controlling the pump (since you've replaced the rail then the pressure sensor is likely to be good).

Turbo is quite new only a year old, oil level is the same all the time no contamination. The maf has been changed over with no difference. Egr is blocked. Wondering if the rail pressure sensor is faulty? Has a brand new scv and filter.. Injectors were second hand but didn't make a difference to the old ones.. Fuel usage is about the same I wounder what low compression is like?
 
I was thinking with low compression, at idle the fuel wouldn't ignite properly hence the white smoke you said your getting, then when boost comes on you would get proper ignition of the fuel and normal performance. Are you getting any codes?
 
Wait, it is an auto - one of the garage pics shows an auto shifter. Has the DPF been removed? I know the ECU isn't supposed to let the injectors open in the exhaust stroke when the engine is idling, but what if it's trying to do a regen?

I'd be interested in the CEL code too.
 
slightly off topic but when fitting a second hand fuel pump, does it need to be coded to the engine like the injectors require

regards
Rod
 
is it possible to hook up a pressure gauge to the fuel system, and if so what type of pressures would the gauge have to be able to read. have heard they run at around 20000 psi. is that correct
 
Runs higher than that. The stock YD25 is capable of 1700BAR (25000psi) and the V9X can do 1800BAR (26500psi). They're supposed to be able to reach 30,000psi (2000BAR). At that pressure your standard tyre gauge will be in orbit before Richard Branson can fart.

In my opinion they're stupidly high pressures to begin with. I did some work for a industrial cutting company - these guys used machinery to cut through concrete slabs under water, through the chains that held oil rigs in place and through the sonar domes on submarines and they used water jets at 20,000psi to do it. Phenomenally destructive, a quick blast on a steel bar (used to level concrete floors - the guy said "just give it a quick spray to clean it for me she'll be right!) saw the bar turned into a buckled piece of scrap.

And we drive around with that all day. I wouldn't be tapping in to the fuel rail to add anything, not at those pressures!
 
would need a good quality gauge and some super high pressure hose. not going to do it, but was wondering if u could check fuel pressure that way. can u get pressures on the obd things or whatever theyre called
 
so many to choose from. what u using. my phones an android, or doesnt really matter. they all much of a muchness
 
Android is better than iphone..use the app torque (which isnt on iphone anyway)
Just grab a bluetooth obd2 adapter..either get a cheap one..ie under $10 fron asia(mabee 2 just incase) or grab a $30ish dollar one from australia..same same really.ive had my ebay special for as long as ive had the nav.starting to give a few errors now.ordered another 2 today for $6each shipped.
 
Android is better than iphone..use the app torque (which isnt on iphone anyway)
Just grab a bluetooth obd2 adapter..either get a cheap one..ie under $10 fron asia(mabee 2 just incase) or grab a $30ish dollar one from australia..same same really.ive had my ebay special for as long as ive had the nav.starting to give a few errors now.ordered another 2 today for $6each shipped.

cool. thanks man
 

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