Repeating bearing failure SOS

[Linzky]

I could use some help. I again need new wheel bearings for my Nissan Navara King Cab D22, 09/1999, 2,5 turbodiesel TD25Ti, 4WD, King Cab, LH drive, Europe (Norway).

I repacked them and reinstalled them twice this year, last a month ago, preloaded with a fish scales and handmade tool. Last time I used NLGI 2 Lithium. Before that Calcium. Doesn't matter. It been used calcium grease(pink) before that. But thought to mention it.

The wheel bearing has broken down five times, last four years, this will make it 7! In various ways, once over a pothole, another after a forest trip, another on a road, and sometimes it seems I've been just driving an old train gone off rail.

It has not been the same side, sometimes both sides, different sides. It has also happened before my time, I can tell out of old papers, receipts, mot controls.

I wonder if someone have had this wheel bearing failure due to a a missing/bad needle bearing in the knuckle or any other missing parts? Bumper

The hub was changed from automatic to manual a long time ago, because of "problems" with the automatic. I didn't own it then. It confuses the part catalogue/search. Could be a part of the problem.

The ones I keep on buying, keeps on breaking. It's FAG 713 6138 60, it's "the only one" marked with "For manual free locking hub", also with/for ABS. It cost 160EUR/1900nok and more than the double of that in a store. Premium shit that doesn't last a year! The OEM number wheel bearing for my car is supposedly:

402152S600 front - the one that falls off when taking of the hub
402102S600 bearing assy back

There's two parts, outer and inner bearing, and I believe the FAG are the same outer/inner sizes, or at least the races are, while other/a bunch of different and alot cheaper wheel bearing sets/kits with the same OEM have a larger and a smaller outer/inner bearing, none however marked with "For ABS" or "For manual". WHYYY?!?

I can't understand why the wheel bearings need to be any different having a manual hub? The parts catalogue and workshop manual (I have then all, including Europe version and supplements), there is no difference (doen't mean there isn't one but). The manual hub simply twist and engages on/off the driveshaft and the toothed drive clutch part?

I don't know why my wheen bearings keeps on "breaking". Now, as it happened again, after everything else was fixed two months ago:

• the alignment was "perfect", camber, caster, toe-in, height, straight frame, turning angle
• new torsion rods
• new upper and lower link ball
• new tie-rods ends ball joints
• new all bushings stabilizer bar
• new all bushings spring leaf
• demantled and "took care" of spring leaves
• new shock absorbers front and back
• all oils changed except servo
• engine changed 1 year ago

Checked and all within limits

• axial wheel bearing end play
• axial end play of drive shaft
• wheel runout lateral and radial
• tires, tire pressure, patterns
• belts, pulleys and tension

Checked and lubricated

• propeller shafts
• drivetrains linkage
• driveshafts assembly

ALSO: The left spindle/knuckle was changed 10 months ago, as we thought that was the cause of it. But nopey. Don't think so.

And now I start to wonder, searching for wheel bearings and parts, is there some parts missing on my car? That has been missing since they changed it to manual free hub?

Suspicion A) Is both sides missing a needle bearing in the knuckle? I played with the knuckles this summer when I changed the ball joints, can't remember if there was a toothed ball joint in the hole, was more concered about the ABS cable and rust. Anyone that know's about this? Is there any way of definite checking without taking off the knuckle?

Suspicion B) Wrong wheel bearing has been installed every %**#+ time? Or the wrong way? The same shop has provided the part, I belive all these years... (my local uncle owned it before me) anyone know the excact product number/brand, mm measurement og their wheel bearing?

I hope someone can help me I've talked to anyone I know, but now I've come to a halt . Any suspicions are welcome, shoot out!

 

[tweak'e]

afaik the front wheel bearings have not changed. quick search shows only one listed.

have you got any pics of the failed bearings?

if the needle bearing is missing the drive shaft will be loose. i can't recall an easy way to check as its been many many years since i had that apart.
if the bearings are out, check how much the drive shaft is moving. ie can you move the whole shaft up/down.
however i would change the rear seal (common cause of bearing failures) and that requires pulling the drive shaft out. then you can check the spacer and needle bearing is there (and regrease it)

the hubs only changes whats on the end and nothing to do with the bearings.

 

[Linzky]

afaik the front wheel bearings have not changed. quick search shows only one listed.

have you got any pics of the failed bearings?

if the needle bearing is missing the drive shaft will be loose. i can't recall an easy way to check as its been many many years since i had that apart.
if the bearings are out, check how much the drive shaft is moving. ie can you move the whole shaft up/down.
however i would change the rear seal (common cause of bearing failures) and that requires pulling the drive shaft out. then you can check the spacer and needle bearing is there (and regrease it)

the hubs only changes whats on the end and nothing to do with the bearings.

Nice answer, I will check it out next opportunity. Tried yesterday but haven't ordered new ones yet, and need to get closer to a garage. I haven't really done up and down. But I did in/out.

No I don't have any picture of the knuckle, spindle or the wheel bearing. That's what so stupid, I had then in my hands but not the phone. I regreased the bearing and hub a month ago. Took pics of everything else . See what I added .

 

[Linzky]

Here's FAG bearings product For manual hub and For automatic hub (diffetent size on one bearing)

 

[tweak'e]

how much difference in bearing size?
i wonder if they meant 2wd which has smaller bearing.

 

[Linzky]

how much difference in bearing size?
i wonder if they meant 2wd which has smaller bearing.

No, can't figure out. All but FAG products show their mm in all webshops. Search fag too.

The shops keep displaying FAGx60(for manual hub) and all other bearings as the right one.

All others are the same as FAGx50(who says for automatic hub): Inner 45/78+Outer 41/68

For 2WD, different oems and size: Inner 35/65+Outer 21/50

The part drawings in the manual shows there's difference in both 2WD and 4WD.

I also remember one side of the vehicle has a sloppy brown NTN/SNR outer wheel bearing cone which is confusing, because I thought both sides were changed with those FAG x60 bearings, I didn't personally order all times nor did I see the change, but if that side hasn't been changed
- the one with the sloppy cone can't be the side that's broken down so many times
+ the sloppy cone is a smaller outer bearing
= smaller outer bearing+larger inner bearing can't be wrong?
= maybe the x60 bearing is wrong? It's only FAG that sells them with the notion "For manual free wheeling hub". IT'S WEIRD! I know there's something wrong.

• wrong wheel bearings parts or part
• worn or lack of needle bearing, spacer or grease seal behind the knuckle

Maybe I'll just buy a pair of both types

 

[tweak'e]

the two thin o rings are for utes with no hubs. eg UK ones and later ones downunder didn't have lockable hubs.

maybe go to a different brand?
i have used some FAG bearings before but they are a bit of an unknown to me.

 

[Linzky]

the two thin o rings are for utes with no hubs. eg UK ones and later ones downunder didn't have lockable hubs.

maybe go to a different brand?
i have used some FAG bearings before but they are a bit of an unknown to me.

Yeah ok, I thought so last night. Which means those bearings with two rings are the wrong ones all this time. Sent an email to FAG Schaeffer or something.

I'm gonna order some cheap.

 

[eli martin]

what rim offset are u runing and what size wheels

 

[Linzky]

what rim offset are u runing and what size wheels

40mm impress. (In?)
255/70R15

 

[Horatius]

I could use some help. I again need new wheel bearings for my Nissan Navara King Cab D22, 09/1999, 2,5 turbodiesel TD25Ti, 4WD, King Cab, LH drive, Europe (Norway).

I repacked them and reinstalled them twice this year, last a month ago, preloaded with a fish scales and handmade tool. Last time I used NLGI 2 Lithium. Before that Calcium. Doesn't matter. It been used calcium grease(pink) before that. But thought to mention it.

The wheel bearing has broken down five times, last four years, this will make it 7! In various ways, once over a pothole, another after a forest trip, another on a road, and sometimes it seems I've been just driving an old train gone off rail.

It has not been the same side, sometimes both sides, different sides. It has also happened before my time, I can tell out of old papers, receipts, mot controls.

I wonder if someone have had this wheel bearing failure due to a a missing/bad needle bearing in the knuckle or any other missing parts? Bumper

The hub was changed from automatic to manual a long time ago, because of "problems" with the automatic. I didn't own it then. It confuses the part catalogue/search. Could be a part of the problem.

The ones I keep on buying, keeps on breaking. It's FAG 713 6138 60, it's "the only one" marked with "For manual free locking hub", also with/for ABS. It cost 160EUR/1900nok and more than the double of that in a store. Premium shit that doesn't last a year! The OEM number wheel bearing for my car is supposedly:

402152S600 front - the one that falls off when taking of the hub
402102S600 bearing assy back

There's two parts, outer and inner bearing, and I believe the FAG are the same outer/inner sizes, or at least the races are, while other/a bunch of different and alot cheaper wheel bearing sets/kits with the same OEM have a larger and a smaller outer/inner bearing, none however marked with "For ABS" or "For manual". WHYYY?!?

I can't understand why the wheel bearings need to be any different having a manual hub? The parts catalogue and workshop manual (I have then all, including Europe version and supplements), there is no difference (doen't mean there isn't one but). The manual hub simply twist and engages on/off the driveshaft and the toothed drive clutch part?

I don't know why my wheen bearings keeps on "breaking". Now, as it happened again, after everything else was fixed two months ago:

• the alignment was "perfect", camber, caster, toe-in, height, straight frame, turning angle
• new torsion rods
• new upper and lower link ball
• new tie-rods ends ball joints
• new all bushings stabilizer bar
• new all bushings spring leaf
• demantled and "took care" of spring leaves
• new shock absorbers front and back
• all oils changed except servo
• engine changed 1 year ago

Checked and all within limits

• axial wheel bearing end play
• axial end play of drive shaft
• wheel runout lateral and radial
• tires, tire pressure, patterns
• belts, pulleys and tension

Checked and lubricated

• propeller shafts
• drivetrains linkage
• driveshafts assembly

ALSO: The left spindle/knuckle was changed 10 months ago, as we thought that was the cause of it. But nopey. Don't think so.

And now I start to wonder, searching for wheel bearings and parts, is there some parts missing on my car? That has been missing since they changed it to manual free hub?

Suspicion A) Is both sides missing a needle bearing in the knuckle? I played with the knuckles this summer when I changed the ball joints, can't remember if there was a toothed ball joint in the hole, was more concered about the ABS cable and rust. Anyone that know's about this? Is there any way of definite checking without taking off the knuckle?

Suspicion B) Wrong wheel bearing has been installed every %**#+ time? Or the wrong way? The same shop has provided the part, I belive all these years... (my local uncle owned it before me) anyone know the excact product number/brand, mm measurement og their wheel bearing?

I hope someone can help me I've talked to anyone I know, but now I've come to a halt . Any suspicions are welcome, shoot out!

That really is strange. Maybe they really are the wrong ones, but if they fit...? A lot of parts places round this way go off VIN number which makes getting correct parts far more reliable.

I was always fussy with mine and repacked them every 40k kms, or before a major trip. I did have one collapse though, shortly after a high country trip. That was extreme conditions though with a lot of deepwater crossings. It was full of a reddish dirt sludge, so obviously the seal had failed.

I'm guessing your model is different though as the seals were easy to change on mine.

Is the hub ok? the bearing sit on it snuggly?

The only grease I ever used was whatever was advertised as "high speed wheel bearing grease" and had no problems.

Please don't take this the wrong way as I'm not doubting you, but as I don't know, have to ask? How are you packing these bearings? Below is a good demonstration of how not to pack wheel bearings. This fella is throwing grease just about everywhere but where he really needs it (should be forced/worked into the bearing itself). Those bearings are unlikely to last very long but it's strangely not uncommon.