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eLocker or air locker?
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Old 25-09-2019, 11:56 AM
nofx nofx is offline
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Default eLocker or air locker?

Hi all

Long post warning. I'm kinda wordy. The title of this post has no doubt been done to death, but I've got my own thoughts on it and another question as well...

So I have a 2012 D22, 32" tyres, chipped, canopy and drawers in the back, always serviced on time with 120k on the clock. The rear diff has also just shat it. My mechanic reckons the people he spoke to say that those diffs are rubbish and prone to failure and that they can't keep reco stock on the shelf. Any thoughts on that? I've been going to this mechanic for years and what's done is done now, but I have been wondering if he has been more "near enough is good enough" lately. I did mention to him that it starting to sound noisy at the two prior services.

I've always favoured the elocker over the ARB locker (with no experience of either) due to lack of airlines and need for compressor to be mounted somewhere, but was never going to get either, I've got a lokka in the front. Now that my diff is cactus though I might as well fit a locker. I know that any item can break, but the first link I read about elockers this week was a two year old forum thread how a number of elockers had failed in a similar manner; a pin had dislodged and become meshed in the gears. Coincidentally, ARB also have a deal at the moment where you buy the locker and they throw in a compressor and tyre pump kit. Price works out to about $2K fitted. eLocker costs about 1500, and I assume might cost up to 500 to fit? I haven't made the call yet to confirm.

So given the similarity is price, which way would you go? What's your real world experience with elockers and your knowledge of the claimed common fault?

Thanks

Last edited by nofx; 25-09-2019 at 11:58 AM. Reason: Added text
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  #2  
Old 25-09-2019, 09:15 PM
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tony d22 tony d22 is offline
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I don't have any lockers in my 2011 but what your mechanic has told you is rubbish.
Both my diffs are as quiet and as good as new with 260k on the clock.

Myself personally, the way they came from the factory is the best way to go. After all, they were engineered that way.
Bigger tyres don't help with diffs and bearings much either.

If you still insist on a locked diff for the rear, think about tightening up your limited slip plates first. The LSD in the rear diff is very good and coupled with the front locked diff, will help you get through a lot.
As to the price, most people choose the cheapest option but at the end of the day, it all comes down to you.
Air lockers are noisy with the compressor but you will also be able to pump up your tyres. (Need to find somewhere to mount everything too).
E lockers can get chatty but just need the flick of a switch to operate.

Have you searched the forum yet for threads on this?

Good luck.
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Old 26-09-2019, 09:51 AM
Horatius Horatius is offline
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No idea on the e-locker or air locker debate. I would go neither though, if you have an auto locker in the front. I agree with Tony, an awful lot of people still running around on original diff, some with high mileage that have done a lot of work (on and off road). If it was a common fault it would have been noticed.
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Old 27-09-2019, 03:17 AM
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Front auto lokka, 33s and original rear lsd, 2002 model zd30 260k. Done a fair bit off road, no dramas with the rear diff.
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Old 27-09-2019, 11:38 AM
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I think you'll find he was getting confused with the d40 rear diff. Apparently they aren't great, but I've never heard of any common problems with the d22 rears... Do you know it is broken, or are you being told by the mechanic that it is broken?

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Old 27-09-2019, 02:51 PM
Horatius Horatius is offline
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You might find this vid helpful nofx. This fella replaced his e-lockers with TJM air lockers, explains how e-locker, ARB and TJM air lockers work, and why he chose TJM ones.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1nYZo--7Xh4
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Old 27-09-2019, 09:02 PM
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That's a great video, I learnt a bit more about how it all works.
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Old 27-09-2019, 10:40 PM
nofx nofx is offline
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Thanks for your replies. I confess that I had not read of the diff being a problem either. Regarding whether or not if I know it's broken? All I know is that the mechanic said it was stuffed and it sounds like I've got a lion in the back it roars that much. I wouldn't have considered putting a locker in the rear except that this has occurred and I figured if I've got the guts out of this one I might as well add the extra functionality. That, coupled with the advice from the mechanic; I don't want to reco the OEM diff and then potentially have it occur again.

So in relation to the current diff, it sounds like I'm just unlucky? I was aware that bigger tyres and chip would place extra strain on the drive train, but with so many people having done similar I thought that was fine. Mostly I do about 30 km of highway driving a day with 3 or 4 trips to Moreton a year and one big trip every couple of years (just got back from Uluru, the Gulf, Elim Beach, taking the most remote roads we could find).

I'll keep researching, but it sounds like I could save my cash and just reco the original...
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Old 27-09-2019, 11:43 PM
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Id go reco or 2nd hand, which ever is cheaper, lots of d22 parts around.
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Old 28-09-2019, 02:24 AM
Horatius Horatius is offline
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Sounds like you're just unlucky nofx. As ben mentioned, 2nd/h or a rebuild (with quality replacement parts) should be alright as the standard diffs are not generally known to be a problem.

Out of curiosity, have you got raised breathers? I know in some of the earlier (Japanese made) 22's, some have a raised rear breather from factory while I have seen others with just an ordinary valve type breather.
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