Go Back   The Navara Forum > D22 > D22 Engine

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes

ZD30 New Inj Pump:code 0707
  #1  
Old 27-08-2017, 11:39 AM
Mikevp44 Mikevp44 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Kununurra WA
Posts: 27
Default ZD30 New Inj Pump:code 0707

Hi this is my first post and I hope some genius on the forum can make a suggestion that might resolve my injector pump issues which I have been working on for a couple of months.
I initially had a fault code 0707 (injector pump timing) on my injector pump and checked everything I could think off and bit the bullet and installed a refurbished pump 4 weeks ago. After two weeks of smooth running apart from a squeal a couple of times from the injector pump area but could have been the fan belt or exhaust escaping from the egr gasket, on comes the MIL again with the 0707 code.

When the light isn't on the vehicle runs really well. It has good acceleration and torque through all the gears and idles smoothly. When the engine malfunction light does come on resulting in a mini limp mode of about 95km top. I can get normal acceleration back by depressing the clutch and revving the engine to around 4500rpm or putting it in neutral and revving the engine to 4500rpm however the MIL stays on. When I start the engine again which is never a problem the light isn't on but does come on from anywhere between 2 and 30 minutes. I have taken the following steps to resolve the problem:


1) I have replaced the diesel filter (for the umpteenth time) which resulted in no change. The lift pump was changed recently as it had a ruptured diaphragm.

2) I checked for air bubbles in both the intake and outlet points of the lift pump - no bubbles. Checked through clear plastic tube which is now permanently install.

3) Throttle position sensor was changed about 2 years ago, however I connected the appropriate terminal on the TPS and ran the vehicle in real time and garage tested the voltage values which are as smooth throughout the range with both the engine light on and off. No codes for a faulty TPS are registered.

4)Neutral Position Sensor was replaced to rule out it out last week. No change.

5) Timing chain is good.

6) I have removed the harness between the pump and the wiring loom. Although clean and dry all connections on the harness were cleaned with approved electrical cleaner as was the pump connection poles. A voltage reading was taken at terminal 7 which results in battery voltage - good. Grounding is sound. Good connectivity through all wires.

7) No trouble codes are coming up for the cam shaft sensor and crankcase sensor, however the connections were cleaned with an approved electronic cleaner. No change

8)Manifold charge sensor tests are within recommended values, sensor cleaned and the connector as well.

9) Air temperature sensor tested okay.

10) Turbo charger actuator functions as expected.

11) Swirl valve and actuator function as expected.

12) EGR is producing no trouble codes. The engine has a EGR blank inserted along with the appropriate rerouting of the vacuum lines to the actuator and shut down solenoid from the EGR solenoid. EGR solenoid is still connected only for the ECU monitoring.

13)ECM relay has been cleaned and wiring checked no issues.

14) The wiring loom has been checked from the pump to the ECM and no open or shorts found. All connectors have been inspected and cleaned.

15) The 3 wiring loom earths to the inlet manifold have been cleaned and checked. So has the engine earth.

16) Continuity between the injector pump and ECM terminals 33, 40, 52 and 53 are good.

17) I have noticed that the p77 code seems less frequent with a full tank of fuel and more often with 1/4 of a tank. I checked it with a full tank of fuel and took fuel cap off no change but less likely to come on. I removed 40 litres of fuel and ran the engine with a 1/4 of a tank both with and without the fuel cap on and no change. Light comes on and engine goes into limp mode.

18) I then connected the intake of the fuel filter to a small fuel container (5litres) and the fuel return line from the injector pump to the fuel container. I then drove the vehicle at speed and throughout a range of driving conditions without the MIL coming on, however I pulled up and continued to let it idle for a few minute more and the MIL came on. Total elapse time was about 40mins.

19) Swapped ECU no change in code readings.

20) Driving the car on rough, corrugated Kimberley roads and the highway make no difference. So I have ruled out the a hidden break or loose connection.

21) I have heard that not having a working break light can result in the MIL coming on. I can't see how but the both are working.

Sorry about the long first post but it is the most baffling problem I have had and would prefer not to have to remove the pump again. I have also tried contacting the supplier of the pump but emails and calls are not being returned. So I just hope somebody can assist.

Cheers and thanks for reading the post its very much appreciated.

Mike

Last edited by Mikevp44; 27-08-2017 at 11:22 PM. Reason: Title error
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links

  #2  
Old 27-08-2017, 11:32 PM
Mikevp44 Mikevp44 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Kununurra WA
Posts: 27
Default

I should have said that I suspect I have an electronic problem within the pump and want to rule out all other possibilities.

Cheers
Reply With Quote

  #3  
Old 28-08-2017, 05:24 AM
tweak'e's Avatar
tweak'e tweak'e is offline
Advanced Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 4,329
Garage
Default

it could be pump ecu or the injection pump mechanics.

the most common cause of 0707 code is due to not enough fuel pressure inside the pump. that can be caused by fuel restriction or air being sucked in, or internal pump problem.
i found on mine that restriction tends to make it fault at idle more as you do not have the engine rpm for the pump to suck fuel very well. at higher rpm the increased pumping overcomes the restriction.

what fuel filters are you using?
i had a case of wix filters had listed the incorrect filter.
also with some brands of filter they clog up real fast. a bit of dirty fuel really clogs them.

you could try running two filters in parallel to reduce restriction.
and/or fit a electric lift pump. lift pump helps a lot as it increases fuel pressure in the low rpm where the stock pump tends to be weak.

you could also fit a vac gauge on the fuel inlet. a few guys on patrol forum have measurements off theirs to compare to.
__________________
D22 ZD30 egr+butterfly mod, 2" lift extra leaf springs, enk-tek dump pipe, 2.5" exhaust.
D23 no mods.......yet.
single cab workhorse, to muddy to clean
Reply With Quote

  #4  
Old 28-08-2017, 11:05 AM
Mikevp44 Mikevp44 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Kununurra WA
Posts: 27
Default

Thanks Tweak'e I appreciate the comments and your time in reading the post and replying. This morning the supplier contacted me and said he thought it was the electronics in the pump. It is a newly (4 weeks) refurbished pump so it shouldn't be the internals but there was screeching sound coming from that area after I installed it but nothing since.
I tried running the car with a hose running directly from the pump inlet side of the filter to a fuel container to rule out the lift pump and filter however the light came on within 5 minutes. To confuse matters after connecting the pipes up again and driving around today no MIL! Ran it at idle tonight for an hour and then drove it for 1/2 hour without stopping the engine and still no MIL.
I will check it again tomorrow with the electric pump as you have suggested and see what the outcome is. I will also try running a hose from the pump itself so I can rule out the connection hose between the filter and pump.
It's interesting that MIL doesn't seem to ever come on when the tank is full. I am starting wonder if the vent valve is some connected to the ecm via the emission control system but I will have the check factory manual to work that one out unless you already know.
Cheers and thanks again for you time and thoughts

Mike
Reply With Quote

  #5  
Old 28-08-2017, 11:55 AM
tweak'e's Avatar
tweak'e tweak'e is offline
Advanced Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 4,329
Garage
Default

the other rare possibility is failing or inference on the crank sensor.
need an oscilloscope to check wave form on the crank sensor.
the way the system works is to compare pump internal timing with the crank sensor timing.

you may have got error code when changing fuel hoses around due to air getting in and it has to push that through.

errors when tank is low could be tank vent but also it can be pressure. full tank is easier to suck fuel out of than an low fuel tank.
this is why putting a vac gauge on the pump inlet pipe might show some useful info.
__________________
D22 ZD30 egr+butterfly mod, 2" lift extra leaf springs, enk-tek dump pipe, 2.5" exhaust.
D23 no mods.......yet.
single cab workhorse, to muddy to clean
Reply With Quote

  #6  
Old 28-08-2017, 11:39 PM
Mikevp44 Mikevp44 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Kununurra WA
Posts: 27
Default

Thanks again Tweak'e I will look into the crankcase sensor. I may just have to buy a sensor as I don't have an oscillator. I have just ordered an ecutalk it may help add valuable diagnostic information.
Cheers
Mike
Reply With Quote

  #7  
Old 29-08-2017, 06:52 AM
tweak'e's Avatar
tweak'e tweak'e is offline
Advanced Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 4,329
Garage
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikevp44 View Post
Thanks again Tweak'e I will look into the crankcase sensor. I may just have to buy a sensor as I don't have an oscillator. I have just ordered an ecutalk it may help add valuable diagnostic information.
Cheers
Mike
if its interference changing the sensor won't fix it.
any decent workshop will have a oscilloscope, you get them built into diagnostic gear and hand held meters these days.

ecu talk might help. it will show ICV% if there is a change in ICV% when you do something it will help track the issue down.
ICV is related to timing. much more accurate than relying error codes as error codes are only produced if timing fails totally rather than just very bad.
__________________
D22 ZD30 egr+butterfly mod, 2" lift extra leaf springs, enk-tek dump pipe, 2.5" exhaust.
D23 no mods.......yet.
single cab workhorse, to muddy to clean
Reply With Quote

  #8  
Old 30-08-2017, 11:57 AM
Mikevp44 Mikevp44 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Kununurra WA
Posts: 27
Default

Thanks for the info Tweak'e. I haven't been able to get the MIL to come on for 3 days. Tried running it for 3 hours at idle the a run on the highway at 110kms. And nothing. I went for a drive today and hit some rough road - rocks, corrugated road etc and on it came. Even kept coming on smooth roads and the highway then off and stayed off. I have just finished pulling the fuel tank out and checked. Remarkably clean.

I am going to vacuum test the lines after the filter and directly to a tank and double check the vacuum readings. After that all I can come to is the electronics in the pump. I have a new pump coming on Monday so unless something else happens I will replace it.

Cheers

Mike
Reply With Quote

  #9  
Old 30-08-2017, 12:01 PM
Mikevp44 Mikevp44 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Kununurra WA
Posts: 27
Default

Ah! Point taken about the ecu talk providing a more accurate reading than a code which it is not throwing up. Might wait until get the ecutalk before I can the pump. Thanks for the clear thinking

Cheers
Reply With Quote

  #10  
Old 30-08-2017, 12:46 PM
tweak'e's Avatar
tweak'e tweak'e is offline
Advanced Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 4,329
Garage
Default

quick late night thought.....

did you check for bubbles in the fuel AFTER the injection pump?

if not i would check there. it could be front pump seal leaking but also these engines are known to have issues with the seals on the injector return line (spill line) which connects to the pump inlet (you can't check it on the pump inlet hoses as it connects at the pump banjo). the is also a spill line mod which reroutes the spill line from the pump inlet to the pump outlet side with some improvements. it has to be done if you fit an electric lift pump.
__________________
D22 ZD30 egr+butterfly mod, 2" lift extra leaf springs, enk-tek dump pipe, 2.5" exhaust.
D23 no mods.......yet.
single cab workhorse, to muddy to clean
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump



All times are GMT +1. The time now is 01:03 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
| Home | Register | FAQ | Members List | Calendar | Today's Posts | Search | New Posts |