09 D22 dual battery setup

The best system i've found is using the RedArc BCDC1220 (soon to be supersceeded by the BCDC1240).

It's basically Old.Tony's system all rolled into one unit. It's has the automatic voltage sensitive battery isolating function of the RedArc SBI12, will accept varying voltage input (no need to worry about voltage drop too much), and has a 3-stage charger on the output providing 20A of charging current. It also has different charging profiles for different battery profiles.

not only will it ensure that your auxilliary battery reaches and stays 100% full, it will protect your main battery from draining, and comes in a weather proof casing.

sounds like exactly what i need in the tray.

$500 from RedArc (or ARB)
$358 from eBay.

3rd battery

heata said:

Ok so we are talking 2010 d22. I bought the redarc, bought some cable and set to work. At first glance it looks as if the +ve on the passenger side bat, is wired direct to the alternator. (my plan was to remove this and run fresh cables via the redarc between bats, as per diagrams posted)

Not so, it is wraped up with a bunch of cables that runs PAST the alternator, across the front of the engine, and down the driver side of the engine. It then is wraped up with a bunch of other cables and looks like it might head back up to the drivers side battery. But that is where I stopped unwrapping. Has any one unwrapped? and actually followed these cables?

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Im installing a 3rd deap cycle down the back under the tray back in a under body box with a redarc isolator , Im not keen on chopping wires on the 2 front starter batteries sometimes things should be left alone, {warrenty problems} down the line, nissan mite say you should not of done that If you know what I mean

hey fellas.

well ive gotten to the point of having my redarc sbi12 in the to do cupboard for atleast 9months now and i want to get it in. can anyone put up some pictures of there redarc installs in the 09-11 d22 which came standard with dual batteries. i also need to know where you put the isolator itself. i cannot find anywhere to put it.

cheers
Rusty

Rusty, inside the engine bay, drivers side quarter panel, about 2/3rds of the way back, you will find 2 predrilled holes with captive nuts that line up just right.

Unfortunately they have already been allocated to stuff. I was thinking somewhere on passenger side but there is nuttin unless I put it under the battery.

well still having dramas finding a nice spot for the battery isolator.

i had a good look and everywhere i thought i had room i had nuttin. between spotlight relay, couplertecc rust system, car alarm, and crap i have no room at all on either side section or on the firewall.

ive found one spot just under the passenger side battery, here is a pic,




any ideas on whether its a good spot. im wanting to get another job out of the to do cupboard

cheers
Rusty

Make up bracket that uses the battery mount as it's mounting point. I've done that in two cars now and it's fine.

KraftyPg said:

Make up bracket that uses the battery mount as it's mounting point. I've done that in two cars now and it's fine.

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may sound stupid but i honestly dont know what you mean. you talking the battery clamps?

anyone else got good ideas. i cant believe how there is verylil to no room under the bonnet of these :S

There is a bolt on the battery strap/mounting point, make a bracket up that holds the isolator and bolts to that bolt and leaves the isolator between the battery and the bodywork.

Just wanna say this forums great. Its helping me heaps.
So i have a redarc sd12 ready to wire up its mounted nice but im having doubts on its use. Im sure its good or they wouldnt sel em.
So if you drain the secondary battery overnite, start the truck in the morning. It will isolate the batteries and charge the primary first. Then conect the secondary in an attempt to charge it but this would cause a voltage drop in the primary battery then the redarc would isolate the secondry again. Er thats my thoughts it would never charge the secondry so i havent bothered buying a deepcycle battery
yet. Am a woried about nothing or should i get a better unit. Only paid 30 dollars for this one in a clossing down sale type thing.

Hobs said:

Just wanna say this forums great. Its helping me heaps.
So i have a redarc sd12 ready to wire up its mounted nice but im having doubts on its use. Im sure its good or they wouldnt sel em.
So if you drain the secondary battery overnite, start the truck in the morning. It will isolate the batteries and charge the primary first. Then conect the secondary in an attempt to charge it but this would cause a voltage drop in the primary battery then the redarc would isolate the secondry again. Er thats my thoughts it would never charge the secondry so i havent bothered buying a deepcycle battery
yet. Am a woried about nothing or should i get a better unit. Only paid 30 dollars for this one in a clossing down sale type thing.

Click to expand...

i have a redarc fitted and charging start batt plus 2 optima agm's, 1 under hood and one in tray

Hobs said:

Just wanna say this forums great. Its helping me heaps.
So i have a redarc sd12 ready to wire up its mounted nice but im having doubts on its use. Im sure its good or they wouldnt sel em.
So if you drain the secondary battery overnite, start the truck in the morning. It will isolate the batteries and charge the primary first. Then conect the secondary in an attempt to charge it but this would cause a voltage drop in the primary battery then the redarc would isolate the secondry again. Er thats my thoughts it would never charge the secondry so i havent bothered buying a deepcycle battery
yet. Am a woried about nothing or should i get a better unit. Only paid 30 dollars for this one in a clossing down sale type thing.

Click to expand...

The isolator is monitoring the input voltage yes, but so is your alternator. It should be maintaining sufficient charge to hold the voltage up enough even if the rear battery has been deeply discharged and draws lots of current.

Just be careful about your choice of aux battery. Gels are absolute crap and a complete waste of money.

Flooded (wet) cell batteries - like your starter battery but built differently so that you can discharge them more, but can't deliver (or take) lots of current - are cheaper and more reliable, they just need to be maintained regularly (mostly just topping up the water in 'em).

AGM batteries - especially spiral wound models like the Optima red/blue/yellow ones - are the best. Designed for military use - that's huge charge rates, start your car off it if you want, run them to 20% capacity without too much detrimental effect BUT at a higher cost.

well the redarc still hasnt made it into the engine bay and i am finally sourcing the fuses and wir eot do the setup im am doing. i am leaving the 2 front batteries running parallel and adding an agm into the tub in a custom box. now i need a few pointers. im gonna jam the redarc where ever it fits. i just want ot make sure i have the correct order for my wiring and fuse so i will write it up below:

postive wire:
START BATTERY -----> 100amp megafuse ----->redarc sbi12 isolator -----> wire to tub -----> another 100amp megafuse ------> to agm AUX BATTERY.

negative wire:
START BATTERY ------> AUX BATTERY (no fuses or anything needed)

after they are matched to AUX BATTERY ------> 6 fuse block -----> various switches+power sockets (merit, cig, anderson plug, fridge plug, etc)

all this using 13.5mm2 cable or as most of us call it 6B&S cable. cable is all twin sheathed for extra protection. please let me know anymore pointers?

Rusty

That sounds pretty good to me.

You don't need to run a negative wire from battery to battery, the SLI battery should already be earthed and you can just do the same to the new second battery.

Also, don't make the same mistake I did, buying those crappy 3AG fuse holders that screw together, they wear over time (and the ingress of mud/water doesn't help). A couple of weeks ago I changed them to the bolt together type and covered with heat shrink. Much better now.

Thanks fellas. I will be using the ANL style fuses. They bolt in type and 1 will be under bonnet other will be in tub. So both out of the way of water.

Rusty

Give 'em a coating of that blue shit they spray on battery terminals once they're done up just to be on the safe side.

I usually use Vaso on battery terminals but its too bloody hot up here, it just melts away, where do you get the blue stuff? Or that yellow paste that stops corrosion? I haven't seen any around.

Auto electricians have it, if you know one just pop in and hand him a coldie for giving it a quick spritz.

I might call a friend tomorrow and find out, although someone else here might know what the stuff is and where it can be got.

I'm going to give blackwoods a call near me at wacol. They do almost everything so I'm sure they would do some sort of electric grease stuff