possible crank angle sensor?

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you don't need a boost gauge after you block the egr. the patrols did as they have a different type of turbo on them, but the navara's are fine.

catch cans are easy to fit, just try to avoid the cheap chinese ones from ebay as the fittings are too small compared to the size of the pvc hose on the navara. i have a forefront one on mine, if you do a quick search you will find heaps of info on them
 
Forefront Industries sell a catch can worth putting on. You can use others, consider putting some stainless steel wool inside to promote oil condensation (which catches oil - that's the whole point).

The can goes anywhere you can fit it. There's a hose that comes from the top of the engine at the rear and runs to the air intake just in front of the turbocharger. The catch can basically slots into that hose - extend either or both ends of the hose as needed to reach your catch can. And don't forget to empty it now and again!
 
small thread highjack (sorry) do you recon you could fit the forefront can on the dipstick side of the motor and rig it to circulate the caught oil back into the motor by plumbing it into the side of the dipstick or would the oil be contaminated??
 
The crankcase is pressurised (by virtue of the blow-by). If you plug both ends into the motor, you won't get any flow through the device, it'll just pressurise itself a whole lot more.

With a one-way valve, you might manage to have the system drain itself back into the engine once the pressure's gone. I haven't thought much on how to do that, but I think a plumber might be called for there!

The oil is just as contaminated as the rest of the sump oil - returning it to the sump shouldn't be detrimental to the engine. It does present a nice automated way to remove the oil from the blowby without ever having to worry about the can.
 
yeah I was thinking of just plumbing the inlet from the motor and outlet to the intake as per normal so there shouldn't be a pressure build up above normal and just brazing a pipe onto the side of the dipstick for the oil return line kind of a fit and forget. I recon that way I could just clean the gauze filter in the catch can every service
 
Sorry to hijack this post but I am also having starter problems with my 03 STR zd30. I am getting the starter motor screatching / stalling mainly when cold starting but if the engine has any wormth it seems to start fine. Also after I do get it to cold start it gets a real rattle up for 2 or 3 seconds which is like what happened before I got the glow plugs replaced two months ago.

I am a bit baffled as it only does it when cold. I can start the car 40 times when warm and it doesnt do it? No engine light at all. I would appreciate any help.

Cheers Jado
 
yeah I was thinking of just plumbing the inlet from the motor and outlet to the intake as per normal so there shouldn't be a pressure build up above normal and just brazing a pipe onto the side of the dipstick for the oil return line kind of a fit and forget. I recon that way I could just clean the gauze filter in the catch can every service

yes that works ok. i don't always like it as the catch can can catch water as well. however any water will eventually be drawn into the engine.
you will also need to fit a one way valve to the oil return and keep the catch can up reasonably high.
 
Sorry to hijack this post but I am also having starter problems with my 03 STR zd30. I am getting the starter motor screatching / stalling mainly when cold starting but if the engine has any wormth it seems to start fine. Also after I do get it to cold start it gets a real rattle up for 2 or 3 seconds which is like what happened before I got the glow plugs replaced two months ago.

I am a bit baffled as it only does it when cold. I can start the car 40 times when warm and it doesnt do it? No engine light at all. I would appreciate any help.

Cheers Jado

check the intake pipes for engine oil. could be getting oil pooling in the engine and its igniting on start up causing kickback.

otherwise test the glows in case you got cheap nasty ones that have failed already.

the other thing is to check the battery and connections. charge it up overnight and clean the terminals.
 
check the intake pipes for engine oil. could be getting oil pooling in the engine and its igniting on start up causing kickback.

otherwise test the glows in case you got cheap nasty ones that have failed already.

the other thing is to check the battery and connections. charge it up overnight and clean the terminals.

Thanks tweak'e, it get onto that now.
Cheers, Jade
 
I have been getting the 47 crank angle fault of late. It has not been a problem on first start but only after driving and car has warmed up. It cranks for a bit (nice and fast with no straining) and then fires up and runs fine though CEL stays on holding the 47 ckp fault. I want to make sure that my starter isnt the problem as the first poster found, which sounds likely given it does start and runs fine when it does. How can I test this? I have found this referenced in a couple of threads but I dont recall there being a test procedure mentioned. I believe there was something about a dodgy starter relay causing noise in one.
Thanks in advance for anyone that can give me some direction here, in the meantime I will do the standard "check all earths" solution.
Cheers, Matt
 
I have been getting the 47 crank angle fault of late. It has not been a problem on first start but only after driving and car has warmed up. It cranks for a bit (nice and fast with no straining) and then fires up and runs fine though CEL stays on holding the 47 ckp fault. I want to make sure that my starter isnt the problem as the first poster found, which sounds likely given it does start and runs fine when it does. How can I test this? I have found this referenced in a couple of threads but I dont recall there being a test procedure mentioned. I believe there was something about a dodgy starter relay causing noise in one.
Thanks in advance for anyone that can give me some direction here, in the meantime I will do the standard "check all earths" solution.
Cheers, Matt

It's a royal pain eh i have just done "all" the earths on mine "that i coulld find" ! New 810cca battery and new terninals..

I was planning on dropping the starter in mine and geting it serviced next ! Maybe the alternator also.. if that doesn't fix my issue it's looking like the I.pump..
Good luck with yours man... keep us posted eh
 
I have been getting the 47 crank angle fault of late. It has not been a problem on first start but only after driving and car has warmed up. It cranks for a bit (nice and fast with no straining) and then fires up and runs fine though CEL stays on holding the 47 ckp fault. I want to make sure that my starter isnt the problem as the first poster found, which sounds likely given it does start and runs fine when it does. How can I test this? I have found this referenced in a couple of threads but I dont recall there being a test procedure mentioned. I believe there was something about a dodgy starter relay causing noise in one.
Thanks in advance for anyone that can give me some direction here, in the meantime I will do the standard "check all earths" solution.
Cheers, Matt

Hey boots, been looking for posts on codes 0301 and 0701 and can't find all that much when i do a search in the forum....
Do a search on starter motors and it comes back with PLENTYYYY!


It looks tight to get out too, I'll tell ya how i go getting it out ....
 
Well I changed out my starter with a repco unit(20% off with Rac card this month). Fixed the problem straight up. It seems that with a good starter the tachometer doesn't move on starting, something that I never really paid attention to. When I cranked it before, getting the 0407 codes, it would jump around like a frog on a hotplate. Once or twice it got stuck over 6000 rpm and wouldn't drop back until I cranked it again. Now it doesn't show any rpm until it runs, which is instantly now.
By the way following someone that posted on another thread, front wheel off, rubber flap removed and out from under the guard is definitely the way to go!
 
Well I changed out my starter with a repco unit(20% off with Rac card this month). Fixed the problem straight up. It seems that with a good starter the tachometer doesn't move on starting, something that I never really paid attention to. When I cranked it before, getting the 0407 codes, it would jump around like a frog on a hotplate. Once or twice it got stuck over 6000 rpm and wouldn't drop back until I cranked it again. Now it doesn't show any rpm until it runs, which is instantly now.
By the way following someone that posted on another thread, front wheel off, rubber flap removed and out from under the guard is definitely the way to go!

Good stuff , have you got a body lift?
 
That's where i got mine through...
 

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