D22 Bullbar, winch & recovery points

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Im gessing you would have to if you done it the other way???? or do you just use the bolts that come with the recovery hook when u buy it????
 
I didn't get to do it today as the boss was all over the place and my secret pencil mark to give me the location of the bb bolt rubbed off between crawling out from under and getting around to the drill <mutter> tomorrow then.

I am expecting to replace the bb bolt as the large square washer is on the other (bb) side of the chassis and have purchased a longer version.

The two bolts that come with the hook are used to attach the hook to the angle iron, unless you are talking about the shortened version.
 
Im gessing you would have to if you done it the other way???? or do you just use the bolts that come with the recovery hook when u buy it????

I didn't get to do it today as the boss was all over the place and my secret pencil mark to give me the location of the bb bolt rubbed off between crawling out from under and getting around to the drill <mutter> tomorrow then.

I am expecting to replace the bb bolt as the large square washer is on the other (bb) side of the chassis and have purchased a longer version.

The two bolts that come with the hook are used to attach the hook to the angle iron, unless you are talking about the shortened version.

Yeah jamie like Terryc said in my version (which is the red) the 2 bolts tht come with the hook bolt the hook only to the angle iron. And the then angle is bolted up using the one bolt for the bullbar, and two bolts going up into the captive nuts in the chassis. But if you were using the shorter version (in grey) then ues you would need longer bolts if the hook bolts werent long enough.

Im not sure what you mean terryc because on mine the square washer was on the inside, and i just took it out and replaced it with the angle iron like what the other bloke on this thread did who made the shortened version.
 
Im not sure what you mean terryc because on mine the square washer was on the inside, and i just took it out and replaced it with the angle iron like what the other bloke on this thread did who made the shortened version.

From the outside, on mine there is square washer(edit I need to wear glasses every time I crawl under the Nav, it was just a 37mm circular washer)., bull bar support, chassis(tie down point), circular washer, spring washer and nut.

I'm not too worried as I sent The Boss over to the good bolt shop(bolt.com.au) for some 40mm length bolts and she came back with 50mm.
 
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OK, so for the short version, you take the bull bar bolt out and put the hook bolt (if long enough) Through were the bull bar bolt was, angel and the first hole on the hook??? Is that right???

Then you drill a hole through the bit of steel that is hanging down, for the back bolt???
 
where abouts did you guys get you angle from?
i can only find it in 7m lengths, where can i get some off cuts?
 
where abouts did you guys get you angle from?
i can only find it in 7m lengths, where can i get some off cuts?

Hey ben, i got the angle from my work, you definately dont need a 7m length, like said above try a local fabrication shop and see if they use that size angle iron and if they do if they have any offcuts or if they could sell you some angle.
 
where abouts did you guys get you angle from?
i can only find it in 7m lengths, where can i get some off cuts?

My local steel supply place will sell you whatever length you want and they even cut the 1m length into four pieces. The hard part was actually finding angle of an acceptable combination of size and thickness. I ended up making mine out of 75x50x8mm as that was all I could lay my hand on in the week prior to trip departure.
 
Got my hands on some 75x50x8mm angle from a local supplier in Melbs Sth East the other week.

Made up the brackets, and painted them up. Got them all bolted up this arvo.

Come up pretty well I reckon, I think the mounting to the vehicle is very solid, cant see them being ripped from the chassis in a hurry.

Heres a couple of pics.
 

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The bullbars have been designed to take a 9500lb winch (arb)

I'd say the issue with cracking mounts would be to do with if the bar has been in a minor accident or animal strike or has been snatched from.

Here's pics of the mounts;
IMAG0025.jpg

IMAG0026.jpg


If you look closely in the second pick, See where the bullbar mounts to the chassis (square washer) There are 2 captive nuts (M12x1.25) above inn the chassis rail. Get some 8mm angle to replace the washer and connect to these 2 extra nuts. (3 Bolts should be enough) And attach a recovery hook 10000lb one each side.

You do not want to attach the winch cable to the bullbar as this will double the force on in when winching with a snatch block.

I was just going to say here in reference to the last line, I believe that you halve the load on the winch not double the force on the vehicle in saying that you can theoreticly pull twice as much wieght but if you maxxing out you 9500 or 12000 pound winch doubled up 18000 or 24000 pound (8164 or 10886 KG's) your car must be seriously stuck, like roof line deep in mud or something.

enough of a rant i would like to say top job on coming up with bracing and recovery point ideas. I have been trying to come up with some sought of thing myself to strengthen and create proper recovery points from( I have recovered off my bullbar eyelets before when i was chassis rails deep in sand at an angle of about 130 degrees from the front of the vehicle and am happy to say only put tiny marks in the eyelets which was from the play in the D-shackles in saying that i dont want to do that regularly as im sure they would eventually stretch and distort and then finally break) my idea for them was to have two pieces laser cut and have them mount to the captive chassis rail nuts and then the other piece to the bullbar mount and to either have a hook like the others or a reinforced eyelet approx 20mm thick. i was going to then join the to pices buy having tongues come off them and have a coresponding hole on the other piece with the tongues being 7mm or 8mm long and the plat being 10mm thick then just welding the end of the tongues in place and welding the entire length of the inside of the join. Can anyone comment on this idea constructively im sure this would be more then strong enough they probably wouldnt cost to much but would involve some time designing a couple of pieces and then testing the strength of the welds before they crack appart( I have a 75 ton press at work which im sure one way or the other would stress test these and show week points being the 10mm steel plate and not the welds) but after saying all that i do like the idea of the angle iron and its so simple im sure i could even make up two jigs and make a bunch if they work well.

thanks,

Josh
 
only problem with a jig for these is that the welded captive nuts aren't perfectly positioned and need to be individually measured and drilled to fit.
unless you just make all the holes 15mm or so but i would prefer to have them drilled custom to the vehicle to avoid the possibility of 1 bolt taking a greater portion of the load and causing a possible failure.

maybe not really necessary but i know mine are spot on and i'm confident in them.
 
Josh, the chassis is probably the weakest part, so what we're really trying to do its strengthen the chassis.

You want to try and spread the load over a large surface area and a number of bolts.

I cracked the chassis at the front bullbar mounting bolt due to corrigations and weight on the bar. I put it down to holes being to large for the bolts allowing lots of slop. Ideally you want a pretty close fit to the captive nuts, not a 15mm hole for 10mm bolt.
 
thanks for the quick replies guys. after finding that out i will have to give that a miss then i guess and after trying to work something out for a little while the other day i might do the same as you guys have done and use some scrap angle to strengthen the lower bull bar mount and add recovery points, as it will be much quicker and at a lower cost to myself.

thanks,

Josh
 

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