D22 Bullbar, winch & recovery points

I need to sort out a winch and some decent recovery points.

I have heard of problems with some of the steel bars cracking along the mounts.
It also seems the bars bolt on through the crumple zone.

As for recovery points, I'm not a big fan of the outback ideas recovery points, hard to reach and not convinced they wont rip out of the chassis.
Would be good to have points mounted on a bullbar, but dont want to break the mounts or rip the bar off the crumple zone.

What are your thoughs on winch, bullbar and recovery point setups for the D22?
Are these bars capable of winching or are they going to break?
Has anyone come across a way of strengthening the mounts/mounting area?

I have an Xrox bar with a Tigrez II winch and I have 2 bush ranger hooks on the front of the bar, I am yet to use the hooks for anything serious, but I have winched several times and the front still looks pretty strait. I had the same concerns when fitting up the bar that it would twist or bent the rails but I was impressed that nothing moved when winching. I know you shouldn't, but I have winched pretty much completely sideways, the hole I was in was too deep to keep going through so I had to pull myself out at about an 80 degree angle, but no movement at all on the bar.

I will try to get a good pic of the bar and the hooks tomorrow, but you can get the idea from this one

The bullbars have been designed to take a 9500lb winch (arb)

I'd say the issue with cracking mounts would be to do with if the bar has been in a minor accident or animal strike or has been snatched from.

Here's pics of the mounts;



If you look closely in the second pick, See where the bullbar mounts to the chassis (square washer) There are 2 captive nuts (M12x1.25) above inn the chassis rail. Get some 8mm angle to replace the washer and connect to these 2 extra nuts. (3 Bolts should be enough) And attach a recovery hook 10000lb one each side.

You do not want to attach the winch cable to the bullbar as this will double the force on in when winching with a snatch block.

hmmm... good advice on recovery points, might do that next week

tommy222220_0 would you recommend doing the same for the alloy bullbar like with the angle and also do you kno what size angle iron to use and how long to make it?

and does anyone know whether snatch recoveries from the front could set off the airbags? (just something i seen asked on another thread but wasnt really answered)

any help would be great.

equipt said:

I have an Xrox bar with a Tigrez II winch and I have 2 bush ranger hooks on the front of the bar, I am yet to use the hooks for anything serious, but I have winched several times and the front still looks pretty strait. I had the same concerns when fitting up the bar that it would twist or bent the rails but I was impressed that nothing moved when winching. I know you shouldn't, but I have winched pretty much completely sideways, the hole I was in was too deep to keep going through so I had to pull myself out at about an 80 degree angle, but no movement at all on the bar.

I will try to get a good pic of the bar and the hooks tomorrow, but you can get the idea from this one

Click to expand...

The bar looks alright!
I would prefer them if they had protection for the headlights though.

Do they mount up to the same points as the nissan bars?

tommy222220_0 said:

The bullbars have been designed to take a 9500lb winch (arb)

I'd say the issue with cracking mounts would be to do with if the bar has been in a minor accident or animal strike or has been snatched from.

Here's pics of the mounts;

If you look closely in the second pick, See where the bullbar mounts to the chassis (square washer) There are 2 captive nuts (M12x1.25) above inn the chassis rail. Get some 8mm angle to replace the washer and connect to these 2 extra nuts. (3 Bolts should be enough) And attach a recovery hook 10000lb one each side.

You do not want to attach the winch cable to the bullbar as this will double the force on in when winching with a snatch block.

Click to expand...

That sounds like the best way I have heard so far for recovery points on the d22.

Are they captive nuts in the front of the chassis there where the bullbar bolts on?

I saw how you re-drilled the bullbar and mounting plates for the bodylift, that was too easy. I plan a BL in the near future.
Are the nissan bars the same (yours is arb right)?
I suspect there is at least a couple of variations of the nissan bar, I have seen one on ebay that has the eyelets either side unlike most I have seen. Also looking at the pics the mounting plates appear to be part of the bar and not bolt on's.

I'm actually thinking about keeping my alloy bar again and mounting a winch on a cradle to the mounting plates behind the bar. The mounting plates look to be atleast as strong if not stronger than the steel bars, will also keep the weight down.

ben85 said:

That sounds like the best way I have heard so far for recovery points on the d22.

Are they captive nuts in the front of the chassis there where the bullbar bolts on?

Click to expand...

Yes they are in the bottom of the chassis rail right near to lowest bullbar mount (square waasher again) 2X M12X1.25

ben85 said:

I saw how you re-drilled the bullbar and mounting plates for the bodylift, that was too easy. I plan a BL in the near future.
Are the nissan bars the same (yours is arb right)?
I suspect there is at least a couple of variations of the nissan bar, I have seen one on ebay that has the eyelets either side unlike most I have seen. Also looking at the pics the mounting plates appear to be part of the bar and not bolt on's.

Click to expand...

Unsure about nissan bars but heard they are made by tjm or arb.
Maybe ask sell for some pics of the mounts. From memory a mates d22 bullbar may have been one peice (no mounting brakets). You will have to check.

ben85 said:

I'm actually thinking about keeping my alloy bar again and mounting a winch on a cradle to the mounting plates behind the bar. The mounting plates look to be atleast as strong if not stronger than the steel bars, will also keep the weight down.

Click to expand...

I thought about doing that, but they are not designed for it. For the cost of making all the necessary cradles etc, it was just easier to get a steel bar.
Plus they are much stronger and look tougher.

Got mine second hand $450 posted to my door off gumtree, just keep your eye out!

BP90 said:

tommy222220_0 would you recommend doing the same for the alloy bullbar like with the angle and also do you kno what size angle iron to use and how long to make it?

and does anyone know whether snatch recoveries from the front could set off the airbags? (just something i seen asked on another thread but wasnt really answered)

any help would be great.

Click to expand...

Yeah it would work just as good for an alloy or no bulllbar. From memory 40x40x8 angle, cant remember the length (and its raining outside, so bad luck Just wait 'til monday and i'll get a length for ya)

Airbags only deploy when vehichle is travelling over a certain speed. Cant remember the extact figure but was round 30km/h, Can someone please confirm this.

tommy222220_0 said:

Yeah it would work just as good for an alloy or no bulllbar. From memory 40x40x8 angle, cant remember the length (and its raining outside, so bad luck Just wait 'til monday and i'll get a length for ya).

Click to expand...

ok cheers mate that would be great. could you use larger size angle eg 65x65x10mm? also i had a look (and correct me if im wrong) you use the 2 nuts that are inside the bottom face of the chassis and then also use the bottom bolt where the square washer is that the bulbar uses to connect to the chassis? so you have 2 bolts going through the top of the angle iron into the chassis rail, the one bolt hole holding it to the bullbar mount??

tommy222220_0 said:

Airbags only deploy when vehichle is travelling over a certain speed. Cant remember the extact figure but was round 30km/h, Can someone please confirm this.

Click to expand...

oh ok cheers

ben85 said:

The bar looks alright!
I would prefer them if they had protection for the headlights though.

Do they mount up to the same points as the nissan bars?

Click to expand...

Similar spots to the factory alloy bar, just had to drill a couple of extra holes through the ends of the chassis rails. It came with all the brackets and bolts and bits needed to fit it up, only took about an hour or so to do it.

BP90 Thats them. Cant see why bigger angle couldn't work. Let us know how you go.

Ive been working with a 4wd shop designing new recovery points for the D22..

They are designed to use the two nuts in the chassis and the bullbar bolt like you guys are talking about. The design will have them come forward a little further then the outback points also, so easier to reach.

Haven't heard back from them for a while but last we spoke they were going to get some prototypes made up. This was last months i think.

Pete

tommy222220_0 said:

BP90 Thats them. Cant see why bigger angle couldn't work. Let us know how you go.

Click to expand...

ok too easy, yeah ive got sum 65x65x10mm angle that im going to use, just havta work out dimensions now like length, hole placement etc. but yeah will upload some pics of them when im done.

what size bolts will i need for the captive nuts in the chassis? and silly question but you have to use high tensile bolts aswell? is there any special grade high tensil bolt to use??

BP90 said:

ok too easy, yeah ive got sum 65x65x10mm angle that im going to use, just havta work out dimensions now like length, hole placement etc. but yeah will upload some pics of them when im done.

what size bolts will i need for the captive nuts in the chassis? and silly question but you have to use high tensile bolts aswell? is there any special grade high tensil bolt to use??

Click to expand...

Just putting mine back on after the bullbar swap but alas its started to rain (hence why i'm on here).

Mine are 75x75x8 angle, 150mm long.

Bolt holes are 52 and 122 from front of angle, 30mm (external mesurement) from edge.

Bolts to chassis captive nuts are M12x1.25, 30mm long with washers (HT)

Hooks are from BCF, those std 4500kg smooth rounded ones.

Stopped raining, just got some snaps for ya.
(eagle-eyes will see i haven't install from bolt on hook yet)





Looking at the pics, will paint 'em when I paint my sliders.

tommy222220_0 said:

Just putting mine back on after the bullbar swap but alas its started to rain (hence why i'm on here).

Mine are 75x75x8 angle, 150mm long.

Bolt holes are 52 and 122 from front of angle, 30mm (external mesurement) from edge.

Bolts to chassis captive nuts are M12x1.25, 30mm long with washers (HT)

Hooks are from BCF, those std 4500kg smooth rounded ones.

Click to expand...

oh yep i know what hooks your talking about, thanks for the dimensions, will make a start on the brackets tommorow,

Just a thought tommy have you tested out your recovery points yet?

BP90 said:

Just a thought tommy have you tested out your recovery points yet?

Click to expand...

Yeah, got a new winch as well, soo had to test 'em out. Ran the winch out and used a snatch block back to the hooks. All went well.

Heres 2 pics of my finished recovery points, havent had a chance to bolt them up yet as i am waiting for the paint to fully dry and i have to go get some shorter bolts for the hooks and some spring washers for the captive nut bolts. Let me know what yas think.

They look real neat mate
I wish i had some brackets like that