throttle problems

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tweak'e

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interested is anyone else with a 120kw vers of the D23 np300 has been having throttle issues.
things like change gear and rpm goes up or holds.
had it twice today. both times was 1st gear changing to 2nd gear. hear the rpm go up, look down and its sitting at 3k with foot off the throttle and clutch in.

talking to someone the other day who has a double cab rx and his one does the same. tho he said he had saw it go up 500 rpm.
 
I don't have one, so haven't experienced the problem, but would put money on the fault being caused by an electrical gremlin. The weird ones almost always are!

The D23 does appear to be a reasonably reliable unit. Even the occasional minor glitch doesn't kill its reputation - unlike the Ranga's oil change fiasco, or the older D40 timing chain fears.

Here's an interesting question: what happens if you slip it into neutral and release the clutch? Does it change the revs when it's revving high? Does depressing the clutch again cause a change? Could it be related to the clutch electronics? Worse still, could it be related to the cruise control?

I know my own cruise control (in the car, my bike's cruise control is the older mechanical type) is greatly affected by brake switch sensitivity and in the manual D40, the clutch switch. However, I have to manually turn my D40's cruise on all the time (I leave my 'wing's cruise on but inactive at all times). Does the D23 have to be activated manually too?
 
not sure if it electrical gremlin or a nissan "feature".

hard to test. it doesn't do it all the time and generally only low gears. it doesn't hold the rpm for long. it behaves like a sticky throttle.

the other issue is the lag. at time it has a big lag, especially if you suddenly boot it. it feels like you loose power, almost like traction control comes on, but then the power slams you.
possibly a throttle control issue ?

is it related to the sticky throttle ?
 
I haven't had the issues you describe, but I have noticed if I'm sitting at the lights and put the clutch in but then let it out again in neutral, the revs momentarily go up by about 500rpm or so.

also completely unrelated, I've noticed sometimes as the engine warms up from dead cold in the morning, the temp gauge gets almost up to operating temperature then rapidly drops down to absolutely cold again before slowly climbing up to operating temperature ( then stays the same all day long)
I wondered if it was the thermostat opening, but it only does it sometimes.

Perhaps the revs increase you describe is to do with the DPF burn?
I drive an Isuzu concrete truck which does a similar thing.
 
I haven't had the issues you describe, but I have noticed if I'm sitting at the lights and put the clutch in but then let it out again in neutral, the revs momentarily go up by about 500rpm or so.
yes they do have that. not sure why. some sort of take off assist? emissions?

also completely unrelated, I've noticed sometimes as the engine warms up from dead cold in the morning, the temp gauge gets almost up to operating temperature then rapidly drops down to absolutely cold again before slowly climbing up to operating temperature ( then stays the same all day long)
I wondered if it was the thermostat opening, but it only does it sometimes.
yes its to do with thermostat opening but it should not be that bad.
how cold is it that morning when it does it?
i'm a little surprised the temp gauge even shows it.

the temp bounce is caused by the thermostat opening and all the cold water sitting in the radiator comes in cooling the engine.
these should have a bottom mounted thermostat to reduce that as its bad the head gaskets.
make sure water pump is working well. if water is circulating the engine to slowly the heat might build up to quickly and cause the thermostat to open to much to soon.
Perhaps the revs increase you describe is to do with the DPF burn?
I drive an Isuzu concrete truck which does a similar thing.
not sure on that.
these have passive dpf so no regen, but it might be trying to keep the dpf hot.
 
Sorry for hijacking your thread.
The temperature in the mornings here (Perth) is usually about 12- 15 degrees, so not real cold.
You've got me thinking about the head gaskets/warpage thing now.
I haven't noticed it happen for a while but i'll keep a closer eye on it now.
I wonder if an air pocket might cause it too, if it wasn't bled properly at the factory?
Mind you, I would have thought that any air trapped would have worked its way out by now (40,000 kms)
 
pop the radiator cap and make sure its full.
most vehicles have idiot gauges which hide the normal temp bounce.
either you have a very good gauge or an abnormal temp bounce.

to give you some idea my toyo hits about 92c then drops into low 70's before settling at 88c.
thats with a top mount thermostat which is worse for it.
stock gauge shows none of that.
 
interested is anyone else with a 120kw vers of the D23 np300 has been having throttle issues.
things like change gear and rpm goes up or holds.
had it twice today. both times was 1st gear changing to 2nd gear. hear the rpm go up, look down and its sitting at 3k with foot off the throttle and clutch in.

talking to someone the other day who has a double cab rx and his one does the same. tho he said he had saw it go up 500 rpm.

mine does the same, so i short shift 1st as it's quite low anyway. this sort of relieves it a bit. it had it's 80k service yesterday with the free computer "upgrade" so I'll see if it has any impact on that 1st to 2nd over rev issue.
 
yes they do have that. not sure why. some sort of take off assist? emissions?


yes its to do with thermostat opening but it should not be that bad.
how cold is it that morning when it does it?
i'm a little surprised the temp gauge even shows it.

the temp bounce is caused by the thermostat opening and all the cold water sitting in the radiator comes in cooling the engine.
these should have a bottom mounted thermostat to reduce that as its bad the head gaskets.
make sure water pump is working well. if water is circulating the engine to slowly the heat might build up to quickly and cause the thermostat to open to much to soon.

not sure on that.
these have passive dpf so no regen, but it might be trying to keep the dpf hot.

Are all of them supposed to be passive regen? I have the 140KW engine and have smelled a regen going on a couple of times. Pretty obvious when you stop soemwhere and it smells like an angle grinder.

Regards the temp rise, I wonder about a software issue. Mine has done it a couple of times but not in a couple of months. On normal cold starts the heater starts to work before the gauge lifts more than about a needle width from the stop. When it misbehaves, like the others who have reported it the gauge will rise quite quickly to the normal range (And the heater fan comes up etc but is blowing out dead cold air) then the gauge drops off the face of the earth again and slowly rises again like normal.

Hopefully if it does it again I will be in a position to stop and check the hoses to see how warm the engine actually is. Given everything is done via software nowadays it could easily be a software artifact rather than a real heat issue. The only other reason I could see would have been an air lock but you would expect it to "Use" coolant as it bled the air out to the reservoir.
 
mine does the same, so i short shift 1st as it's quite low anyway. this sort of relieves it a bit. it had it's 80k service yesterday with the free computer "upgrade" so I'll see if it has any impact on that 1st to 2nd over rev issue.
let me know how it goes.

i find it tends to be worse if its sitting idling for a while.
after a google apparently its common on all sorts of makes. otherwise known as rev hang. something to do with the emissions control.

i also noticed the other day it has a 3k rpm rev limit when in gear and clutch in.
possibly trying to save the clutch.
could well be some of the hang is an attempt to make the gear changes smoother.

its still annoying. it nearly bunny hops in the supermarket when your trying to crawl.
 
lit had it's 80k service yesterday with the free computer "upgrade" so I'll see if it has any impact on that 1st to 2nd over rev issue.


What's this upgrade? My NP300 has almost 30k on the clock, should I take into nissan for a flash?



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