I need to drain my coolant

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Dermie

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Does anyone know where the, or how to drain the coolant from the engine block. I can drain the radiator easy but would like to drain the whole system so that the new stuff I put in is not contaminated.
Cheers Dermot
 
Is this the yd25 engine?
In my 07 d40 STX the coolant drain bolt in the engine is in the left hand side of the block
If you look into the engine bay at 90 degrees directly above the front left tyre it's a smallish, i think 14mm bolt with green paint on it
Mine was a complete prick, took a 600mm 1/2 inch extender bar to get onto it, was super duper tight so even with gently applied force from an electronic impact driver it rounded the head of the bolt. Tried a bolt extractor and destroyed it even more
Took it to the mechanic and he said leave it in
Too much plastic and rubber around to apply much heat, and the block can crack if you try to brute force it out
I just have to drain as much out as i can now every 10 thou and top it up with best coolant i can get
Proceed with caution...
 
what i do is drain the radiato rand engine coolant from the bottom hose then re fit the hose and fill with water then let the engine idle for 5 minutes and remove the bottom hose again. do this 4 times then do the correct re fill with the new coolant , thats it all cleaned out.
 
I've heard of people using compresed air to push the dregs out. Not something to recomend as the pressure could damage anything but this is the lengths some go to.
 
I've heard the best way to do it is similar to as jonney mentioned, except using demineralised or distilled water instead of water from the hose. Flush until clean water comes out, then work out your coolant concentration level and top up with straight coolant until you get that level. Make sure you turn the heater on full to flush the core too.
 
So does this mean you guys have never taken out the engine block drain bolt either?
Is it not then common knowledge that to get all 10 odd litres of coolant out and flush the cooling system properly you need to remove that bolt in the side of the block?
 
If you can get it out, good luck. I tried to get mine out too and found the same thing as you, so gave up. I don't understand how it is a "drain plug" but it is that tight, you end up destroying it while trying to remove it....
 
Mmm its pretty frustrating
My brother has a 2011 mitsu triton with the 2.5 diesel
We managed to get the engine block drain plug out of that motor and it drained all 10 odd litres out much to our satisfaction
 
OK thanks folks.
I think I will have to go the gradual drain the radiator fill with clean water a few times and then when clean start working on the 50/50 ratio with coolant. My guess is the drain bolt gets corroded in place eventually, which maybe why they are so hard to get out. My D22 is the YD2.5 engine only 50,000kms old. Some one told me that some garages have a machine that sucks all the old coolant out and replaces it with new. It may be because of environmental laws governing the liquid disposal and corroded drain bolts.
 
I think if you pull the thermostat out you can get a little more coolant out of the block, but i know on the d40 it was a bastard to remove the thermostat housing
 
yes doing the same this weekend, had a look (ZD30) can get to the left hand side easy enough but the right side you would have to remove the starter motor, Bugger that
so yes I will just be draining/water/run 3 times the re-fill with Nissan coolant
shame though
 
Ive Tried draining coolant out of My 2011 YD25 Engine block for the life of me I cant locate the drain bolt.
Would you guys mind posting a photo of the bolt and location please?
 
Left side of the block, pretty much right below the alternator mounting bracket. The Hulk must have done mine up, it is in a pain of a spot and I had no hope of moving it so never bothered taking it out...
 
I think if you pull the thermostat out you can get a little more coolant out of the block, but i know on the d40 it was a bastard to remove the thermostat housing

Yep it's still a bastard this way but it's way I do it- Sort of. Take the thermostat out, refit the the housing but leave the top radiator hose off the tail on the radiator and duct the water away from the engine with large hose or bit of poly pipe over the hose, cap the top radiator hose tail, anything will do. Run the engine with a hose running away in the filler cap of the radiator, fast enough to keep it full but not so fast you have water going everywhere. Make sure you have the heater full open. In other words let the water pump flush it out completely.

There will be a complete exchange with no old coolant left in it. Put your thermostat back in, reconnect the top hose and drain what you can with bottom hose off, reconnect. Then fill with coolant concentrate. You'll end up with about the right ratio with the water left in the system. Start the engine and with the radiator cap off and let it get up to temp. Ensure the radiator is filled to brim. You don't want any air at all in there.

Take it for a run let it cool and re-check the level. It's a drawn out process but it works and saves getting that dreaded drain plug out. I tried getting it out. Didn't round it off but but I was leaning on huge breaker bar so hard I'm sure I was about to snap it. Gave up and did the way above. Use good quality tap water tho. I used the Penrite 7 year coolant, don't plan on doing it again.
 

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