Excess Black Smoke, EGR Blocked, MAF Cleaned

Nissan Navara Forum

Help Support Nissan Navara Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Blackhander92

Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2014
Messages
40
Reaction score
0
Location
Tindal, NT
G'day guys,

I've been trawling these forums for a while as a guest for an answer to my Black smoke issue and I've tried A lot of the fixes that you gents have suggested but to no avail.

So I thought id register today to ask for some help as I am stumped.

MAF has been cleaned, as far as I can tell it is not damaged.
EGR Blocked
Checked turbo core for and damaged blades/movement. Nil damage found.
Hoses and clamps going to turbo checked for security/damage, Nil damage found.

One thing I have found however, is an excess amount of oil here:

ECS Pipe.jpg

Is this normal?

Cheers in Advance, and I look forward to meeting you all!

Ashley "Blackhander 92"
 
Also forgot to mention, fuel economy is not the greatest. Getting around 500km per 80l Tank. Truck is a 2008 2.5 L AUTO STX
 
I've got some other details that I forgot to mention also, the black smoke only seems to kick in at around 2000rpm. When I put my foot down there just seems to be a lack of power, I cant really hear a turbo whistle but I've been told the whistle is fairly quiet haha.

The car struggles a lot overtaking due to slow acceleration with my foot to the ground and going up minor hills it fails to maintain over 100kmh.

I think that's everything haha. I have an OBD2 Bluetooth Transmitter coming in the mail to get some data, so when I get some figures ill post them here to help with the troubleshooting.

I've got my copy of the workshop manual and am fairly handy on the tools so if you guys have any references in the book for me to look at I should be able to give it a crack.

Cheers
 
Check how much boost it is running.

its not the actuator that fails, its the solenoid under the airbox that controls the actuator.
 
Just checked the actuator, (left it idling, no revs applied) and noticed no movement what so ever. I saw in an earlier thread that there should be between 3-5mm.

Taken from this thread: http://www.navara.asia/showthread.php?t=26315&highlight=Turbo+Actuator

"Here's the test: start the car and let it idle. Pop the bonnet, walk around to the left hand side of the engine and look under the round gold-coloured widget that sits on top of the turbo. There is an arm underneath, around 8mm thick or so. It should be moving up and down about 3-5mm almost randomly."


So, my question now is, is this component replaceable, or is it a turbo replacement?
 
Welcome to the forum.

At 2,000rpm you should be seeing a fair amount of boost, and it's usually the vacuum hoses that let go. Cracks, or a hardening of the inner face of the hose can cause leaks. The first is obviously visible, the second is easy to spot by twisting the hose on the connector (just don't let the outer loose sheath fool you). 4mm inner diameter rubber hose will do the job if you need to replace it.

Oil in that baffle (that's what that widget is, it removes turbo noise) is expected - comes from blow-by. Your intercooler will have some in it too. You can bypass the baffle, fit a catch can and clean the intercooler with petrol - let it dry for an hour or so and reinstall.

If it's not the vacuum hoses, it could be the solenoid - I'm in the middle of answering a post about a possible failed solenoid, trying to find voltage info in the manual. It's not likely to be the solenoid - I've heard of more actuator diaphragm failures than solenoids.

I'd also suggest that since your car is only marginally affected, it's more that likely to be a slight leak in a vac hose. Let us know how you go!
 
Tony - just put 12v across the solenoid and feel for the click like a relay would make.

They are the most replaced part on d40's when it comes to engine control. Our local Nissan dealer keeps no less than 10 in stock. I couldnt even begin to count how many i have replaced over the years.

Generally if it has failed completely you will get almost no boost and fairly massive amounts of smoke. However, in probably 30-40% of cases they fail open and cause the boost to go through the roof. Most people will never know it has happened. There is generally only a small gain in power and it goes undetected until the turbo blows up months/years down the track.
 
Tony - just put 12v across the solenoid and feel for the click like a relay would make.

They are the most replaced part on d40's when it comes to engine control. Our local Nissan dealer keeps no less than 10 in stock. I couldnt even begin to count how many i have replaced over the years.

Generally if it has failed completely you will get almost no boost and fairly massive amounts of smoke. However, in probably 30-40% of cases they fail open and cause the boost to go through the roof. Most people will never know it has happened. There is generally only a small gain in power and it goes undetected until the turbo blows up months/years down the track.

The good book reckons it should take about 6V at idle and towards 9V at 2000rpm (6.3V and 8.6V exactly, DC pulses at around 500Hz). Not sure I'd want to whack it with 12V but Bolla in South Africa says his is being smacked with 14V (which would be alternator output). Not sure how long the thing will last with that being thrown at it, but then again a solenoid is little more than a resistor creating an electromagnetic field, it's not like it's full of transistors!

In spite of its failure frequency, it's obviously not a commonly reported thing, this incident and Bolla's being the first I've read about (although I do miss stuff).
 
Vacuum hoses checked, all gooooood on that front. Just had a look at the actuator arm and there was nil movement at Idle. Did the test in accordance with what you said in this thread:

http://www.navara.asia/showthread.php?t=26315&highlight=Turbo+Actuator

"Here's the test: start the car and let it idle. Pop the bonnet, walk around to the left hand side of the engine and look under the round gold-coloured widget that sits on top of the turbo. There is an arm underneath, around 8mm thick or so. It should be moving up and down about 3-5mm almost randomly."

Tomorrow ill get someone at work to give it a few revs while I monitor just to make sure.

I'd take a poke at that solenoid.

The only other thing (if the solenoid is behaving itself) is the vanes themselves. It's worth removing the vac hose from the actuator and introducing a little vacuum yourself while you watch the actuator, it should be fairly easy to get it to move.

As for how to make a vacuum, you put your lips on the end of the hose and suc... actually, Elton John would know about that more than I do. Ask him.
 
G'day lads, sorry if this pops up a few times on this thread, tried to post a few messages before but it said that post had to be approved by a moderator.

Vacuum hoses checked out all good, no cracks, and they are all secure

Ive carried out a quick inspection on the actuator arm in accordance with what Tony had posted in a previous thread, as quoted below:

"Here's the test: start the car and let it idle. Pop the bonnet, walk around to the left hand side of the engine and look under the round gold-coloured widget that sits on top of the turbo. There is an arm underneath, around 8mm thick or so. It should be moving up and down about 3-5mm almost randomly."

Idling, I cannot see any movement whatsoever at all. Ill put some revs on it tomorrow and check for any movement but im not hopeful haha
 
Haha, copy that.

Ill try out what you suggested about creating the vacuum and get back to you. Now I just have to find Elton John's number for tips...

Cheers
 
Trust me mate, you wont hurt it giving it a flick of power.

Thats all the ecu is doing in turn, turning the earth on and off x amount of times per second.
The voltage reading your getting is a measurement of how fast it is being turned on and off.
Obviously if its not being turned on at all the reading is zero.
If the solenoid is operating at 100% the reading will be 12-14v.

The guy you speak about overseas, his has failed in the way I said happens 30-40% of the time.
 
G'day guys,

Just thought id give you all an update, check the solenoid and yep she's kaput. Also got my boost figures as the OBDII Transmitter came today (Finally!) At foot to the floor the most I could get was 3.8psi of boost....

Ill replace the solenoid and inform you on how I go. Now, does anyone know where I can find one. I dont really want to drive all the way up to Darwin just for 1 solenoid haha.

Cheers,
 
I always get them off Nissan but ive never had a look elsewhere.

Ive done 2 this week, When i called to order the second one the parts man at Nissan had no stock thats 10 gone between Monday and Wednesday. He said there must be alot of trucks coming up to the 100K mark, thats where they normally fail.
 
G'day guys,

Just thought id give you all an update, check the solenoid and yep she's kaput. Also got my boost figures as the OBDII Transmitter came today (Finally!) At foot to the floor the most I could get was 3.8psi of boost....

Ill replace the solenoid and inform you on how I go. Now, does anyone know where I can find one. I dont really want to drive all the way up to Darwin just for 1 solenoid haha.

Cheers,

Try nizzbits, http://www.nizzbits.com.au/ , the local dealer doesn't have a good reputation.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top