D22 Zd30 accelerator

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Mattheeley

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Hi. Today I test drove an 06 dx zd30 which my brother purchased today. The difference in acceleration was very noticeable compared to my 06 STR zd30. His pedal was way softer under foot and was alot more responsive than mine. I have a dp chip and 3inch exhaust, this dx is stock and feels so much smoother accelerating and seems to get up to speed quicker than mine. Has anyone experienced a crappy accelerator with poor response? I've had a look under there and doesn't seem dirty or rusty.
 
i doubt its the accelerator.
more than likely something like injectors or injection pump.
 
Thanks mate. Would it be pricey to get the injectors looked at? My zd30 has 110k on the clock so I'm hoping the pump hasn't failed yet.
 
I don't think the issue is either the pump or injectors not likely at 110kms. It is worth checking the air filter if you haven't checked it fir a while as I have seen gradually block up and restrict the air flow resulting in pretty ordinary performance.

Cheers and good luck
 
I don't think the issue is either the pump or injectors not likely at 110kms. It is worth checking the air filter if you haven't checked it fir a while as I have seen gradually block up and restrict the air flow resulting in pretty ordinary performance.

Cheers and good luck

Cheers for the reply, air filter gets changed regularly along with fuel filter. I've checked all hoses for leaks and all seem normal. I have noticed the exhaust makes a funny sound when holding revs and has started to rattle on start up knocking on the leaf spring suggesting maybe exhaust has come a bit loose somewhere? Could this effect performance?
 
I would think a loose exhaust (on the "far" side of the turbo) won't have that great an effect on performance. If it's between the turbo and exhaust ports (so head->exhaust manifold or manifold->turbo) then absolutely it will affect performance because you're losing pressure that would normally drive the turbine and thus you're losing boost. Having a boost gauge would help here.

As Mike says though, it's less likely to be pump or injectors - unless you've had some dirty fuel. Poor fuel quality can easily cause troubles with injectors. In our D40s the SCV (part of our fuel pump) is a prime candidate for failure from poor fuel.

So what I'd do first, before even thinking about pulling injectors or fuel pumps or anything else, is head down to your local auto parts place and grab a bottle of Liqui Moly Fuel System Treatment. Works in diesel and petrol engines. I've used it in my D40 (2.5L 4cyl turbo diesel) and my Honda Goldwing (1500cc 6cyl petrol). The stuff is almost like a mechanic in a bottle.

After you've run one of those bottles through the tank, see how the performance is.

Other things to look at: is there more smoke than before? Do you have a catch can? If your EGR is still functioning your intake manifold might be filled with black gunk from the combination of diesel soot (from EGR) and condensing oil vapour (from PCV).
 
I would think a loose exhaust (on the "far" side of the turbo) won't have that great an effect on performance. If it's between the turbo and exhaust ports (so head->exhaust manifold or manifold->turbo) then absolutely it will affect performance because you're losing pressure that would normally drive the turbine and thus you're losing boost. Having a boost gauge would help here.

As Mike says though, it's less likely to be pump or injectors - unless you've had some dirty fuel. Poor fuel quality can easily cause troubles with injectors. In our D40s the SCV (part of our fuel pump) is a prime candidate for failure from poor fuel.

So what I'd do first, before even thinking about pulling injectors or fuel pumps or anything else, is head down to your local auto parts place and grab a bottle of Liqui Moly Fuel System Treatment. Works in diesel and petrol engines. I've used it in my D40 (2.5L 4cyl turbo diesel) and my Honda Goldwing (1500cc 6cyl petrol). The stuff is almost like a mechanic in a bottle.

After you've run one of those bottles through the tank, see how the performance is.

Other things to look at: is there more smoke than before? Do you have a catch can? If your EGR is still functioning your intake manifold might be filled with black gunk from the combination of diesel soot (from EGR) and condensing oil vapour (from PCV).

Cheers for the info mate. I've looked around where the turbo and exhaust manifold are and see no evidence of any leaks although when under load I have noticed a hissing sound coming from the left hand side of engine bay. My boost sits at about 17 psi at full throttle. I'll give one of those bottles a go, is it just the one you add to your tank? No catch can installed, egr was blocked about 30000ks ago. I have noticed more smoke on start up with a puff of black smoke and also noticed I can smell the emissions alot more now.
 
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It is also worth checking the exhaust flow at the tail end to check that their aren't any obstructions ie bent dented exhaust pipe, broken baffle blocking exiting gases or the catalytic converter being blocked as well.
Cheers and good
 
As an after thought the smell of emission gas and a puff of smoke indicates incomplete burning of fuel. Hate to say it and given the recent change of the injectors they are most probably fully atomising the fuel but if droplets were forming in one or more of the injectors that would account for the puff of smoke and loss of power. I would also check the egr/shut down actuator that is is fully opening after shut down to confirm the expected amount of air is getting into the cylinders. Pushing the actuator to the left hand side is fully open and that is were it should be and fully towards the right hand side is for shut down just in case if your nit quite sure.

Cheers

Mike
 
As an after thought the smell of emission gas and a puff of smoke indicates incomplete burning of fuel. Hate to say it and given the recent change of the injectors they are most probably fully atomising the fuel but if droplets were forming in one or more of the injectors that would account for the puff of smoke and loss of power. I would also check the egr/shut down actuator that is is fully opening after shut down to confirm the expected amount of air is getting into the cylinders. Pushing the actuator to the left hand side is fully open and that is were it should be and fully towards the right hand side is for shut down just in case if your nit quite sure.

Cheers

Mike

Thanks mike, sounds like I might need the injectors looked at. Where on the engine would I find the shut down actuator? Sorry mate, I haven't got the greatest knowledge when it comes to this sort of stuff.
 
I have heard these can rob power and throttle response on ZD30's. That's why I went 2.5" and chip on my Patrol and it made quite a difference from stock.

I've heard that too mate but it was running well and then one day all of a sudden I noticed that the performance had dropped off.
 
That's not a problem forums are about sharing knowledge and learning. The erg/shut down actuator is a combined unit (dual function) and is located in the centre on the intake throttle body about centre line over the tapped cover and on the radiator side. It is about 5cm in diameter and has a 3mm vacuum pipe on each end. The left hand side of the actuator has a vacuum pipe running to the middle of the 3 solenoids which controls the shut down sequence. The solenoid closest to the drivers side is the egr solenoid and would normally connect to the right hand side of the erg/shut down solenoid. I think you mentioned you have done an erg blank and that pipe should go into a tee section into the line that is used for the shut down.
Out of interest the solenoid closest to the radiator is the swirl control and another vacuum pipe will run from there to the swirl actuator on the other side of the throttle body.
I hope the most isn't to long or unclear.
Oh as an idea you could also just goggle picture of Nissan erg/shut down actuator which would help also

Good luck

Mike
 

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