Excess Black Smoke, EGR Blocked, MAF Cleaned

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G'day guys,

So I'm stumped. Replaced solenoid, replaced the 3 vacuum hoses that come from the solenoid, checked the actuator for movement when a vacuum was provided by myself.

Any other suggestions?

Cheers
 
Does the actuator arm move when the engine is idling? Could be a vac pump failure, although that's not common. Could be the brake booster losing the vac on you too, that's happened twice that I know of (and very likely more than that, of course).
 
Will give that a look. Took it to the dealership yesterday and can honestly say what a bunch of hopeless fools. $520 later and still no fault found though they do agree that there is something wrong!
 
Did some troubleshooting. Check the voltage running to the tc boost control solenoid. It was just getting a constant 14v no matter what revs. Is there a fuse or something I can check for the solenoid?
 
Did some troubleshooting. Check the voltage running to the tc boost control solenoid. It was just getting a constant 14v no matter what revs. Is there a fuse or something I can check for the solenoid?

It's my understanding the the 14V going to that solenoid is modulated so that it's on, off, and so on, just the of on to off ratio changes. Like a pulse of 14volts. Digital multimeter you may not notice the fluctuation of the reading as the 14V switches on and off rather quickly. It depends on how often it samples the voltage for a reading. With an analogue multimeter you may be able to see it switch on and off quickly. Better still would be an oscilloscope.
 
^ I think it's 100Hz, so there's no hope that a standard multimeter will spot it. Oscilloscope is the only way.

If it's reading 14V then it's probably getting the power it needs. Is the actuator arm moving at all when the engine is idling?
 
It doesn't move when actuating arm is connected to the solenoid vacuum line. Ive taken the source vacuum line and applied it directly to the turbo actuator (rather than going through the solenoid) and holy crap the power is awesome. So a vacuum is there which leads me to suspect it is a power supply issue.

Also, vacuum lines are all hooked up correctly again as I dont want to break something hana!
 
Or maybe its not getting the correct signal from the ECB. Going to hand it over to avionics at work for some advice and see how I go.
 
Lindsay has remarked that the solenoids do fail and are in fact a commonly stocked item at some dealerships. But before suggesting that you throw coin at something, I'll always suggest that you conduct sufficient tests to determine the specific failure. It saves money!

However, it does sound like that solenoid has seen its last. If it's getting 14V on its input and it's not doing anything with the vacuum (and there's good vacuum reaching it, and the hoses from the solenoid to the actuator are good) then the solenoid is the obvious culprit.

There's one more test you could do to be 100% convinced. Take the hoses off the solenoid and join them together. It should open the vanes completely (full boost). If so, get another solenoid. I suspect there's no "if not" here, because you've already replaced the hoses.
 
Well, the techs at the dealership have put two (brand new) solenoids on, plus the brand new one that I replaced, and they said that the results hadn't changed for them. So surely, three new solenoids in a row wouldn't fail haha? Or do I just have the worst luck!
 
Sounds like you don't have a problem we've seen much before!

If the solenoid's new and getting power, it must be the ECM (which is what provides the electrical control of the solenoid). Has yours been removed and had its connections inspected?
 
Ive personally removed the plugs and visually inspected the pins and cleaned with contact cleaner.
Power Output has not been inspected (That's one of the things I asked the service department to do and of course didn't do that, apparently following a book is a little tricky these days). Hopefully ill be getting hold of an oscilloscope next week at some point to test it. Thankfully the terminal number is easy to locate on the harness, top right hand corner!

If its getting an output of 6.3V on/off pulse signal, should be good. If not, well, maybe an ECM change. Easy to do, costly to do id Imagine!
 
ECM.. I got quoted $1700 and it needs to be programmed to your car *apparantly* for VATS purposes..

I hope it's not that, and you just have some funky Earth problem.. Try cleaning the earth terminals near the ECM and the one from your block to your battery..
 
Will try cleaning them and see what happens also. Ive seen alot of second hand ECM's on the likes of ebay and wreckers that match my part number. Just looking in the workshop manual I cant see anything about programming, but I will look further into it.
 

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