Water to Air Intercooler setup

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going to keep a close eye on this from now on, definitely relevant to my interests.
Would love to see the comparison of the standard Vs W2A setups, with the comparison of inlet temps.

Why not tap the inlet manifold. That way it's in for both setups and the readings will be the same. You could tap the outlet from the turbo also.

Cheers.

I Agree, Taping the air intake would be best done somewhere it can remain the same, perhaps just before the runners split of into the 4 cylinders..

This is the best photo i have of it at the moment mate. I have wrapped the intake in heat shielding since this photo was taken. I've got a dodgy overflow can set up atm, but i have a catch can the same as the red one in the photo on its way to replace the red neck crc tin in the photo! :redcool:


Baitfish - Great setup, might do somethign similar to mine when i get the turbo sorted.
 
I will post a pick when I get home Monday of how I taped mine if you are interested.

Cheers.
 
Yer i mite do that. Would be less work aswell and i wouldbt have to move the sensors when i put the w2a cooler on. Guages are wired up. Took 3 hrs. They draw power from the cigarette lighter and use the ignition as a trigger which is run through a relay. Will post pics tomoz when im home.
 
This is for my boost gauge but I will be measuring inlet temps the same way. I will just tap another hole below it.

image-4238071254.jpg

Cheers.
 
Working on it as we speak, i should have the holes drilled and tapped tonight and Il run the sensor wires trough the firewall tomoz. Firewall space is at a premium atm, so many wires going through it I may struggle to get another 3 through
 
Displays mounted to dash using Velcro tape. Allows me to remove them if needed and it was the easiest way to fix them in place. Had to drill a hole in the dash to pass the wires through
 

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Bit of an update, the Water sensor is screwed into the bottom of the radiator and wired up to its display. Both air sensors have been drilled and tapped into their respective spots as well and wired up in the cab. Did the drilling and tapping Tuesday night and wired it up yesterday morning.

Pic 1: Turbo outlet, I unbolted it to stop the drilling and tapping filings from ending up in the intercooler

Pic 2: Turbo outlet all drilled and tapped with 1/8 NTP fitting screwed in ready to go

Pic 3: Air Temp sensor installed on turbo side

Pic 4: Air Temp Sensor installed inlet manifold side
 

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First runs yesterday yielded pretty average results, while cruising at 70 - 80km/hr the drop across the I/C was 5 - 10 degrees, temps were around 60 before and 50 after. At 90 - 100km/hr this rose to 10 - 15 degrees, temps were 80 before and 65 after.

Ambient air temp yesterday in Perth was 25 - 28 degrees given by my scangauge

Under hard acceleration, (putting foot down but not to the floor, changing gears at 3000rpm) Pre I/C temp would get to 120 degrees but the I/C would stabilise them to around 65 degrees. This is where I can see the biggest advantage of an I/C is the ability to stabilise intake temps under moderate to hard acceleration.
 
This is where the hard work begins, I need to manufacture the brackets to hold the cooler in place and fit the hosing in a tight space. Im actually considering buying a different cooler which has the outlet on a different orientation to make piping easier, otherwise I will need a U shaped pipe which I can see being the cause of pressure drop
 
First runs yesterday yielded pretty average results, while cruising at 70 - 80km/hr the drop across the I/C was 5 - 10 degrees, temps were around 60 before and 50 after. At 90 - 100km/hr this rose to 10 - 15 degrees, temps were 80 before and 65 after.

Ambient air temp yesterday in Perth was 25 - 28 degrees given by my scangauge

Under hard acceleration, (putting foot down but not to the floor, changing gears at 3000rpm) Pre I/C temp would get to 120 degrees but the I/C would stabilise them to around 65 degrees. This is where I can see the biggest advantage of an I/C is the ability to stabilise intake temps under moderate to hard acceleration.

did you manage to find a big hill to drive up under moderate boost / constant rpm? to see if the core got hot enough to heat-soak and lose efficiency?
 
^ yeah, was the coolant getting warm at all? If not, maybe a bigger pump and more coolant flow would help things out?
My thinking being that it sounds like it was more effective in short bursts, which if the radiator is still cool could mean your not getting enough coolant going through the ic core fast enough.
 
Guys these results are on the stock ic. Havnt put the water to air on it yet.
Highest i could get was 160 at 4000rpm in 3rd gear. That was with foot flat to the floor pulling up a hill
 
so with those results would you say the average temp drop would have been around 15 degrees give or take?

what about when it got up to 160 degrees? still around the 15 degree drop or did it go higher?
 
something like this one might be easier then having the u-turn plumbing? down side is you have to buy it i guess. what type do you have now? similar to the one i have?
 
For the ease of install im gonna buy a different core, looking at buying this one:http://www.frozenboost.com/product_...d=214&osCsid=e73ee4427e18fc1a484e82f104cb454f
For $150 and say $70 in exchange rate and shipping Id say it will be at my door for less than $250

I currently have this core http://www.frozenboost.com/product_...d=203&osCsid=e73ee4427e18fc1a484e82f104cb454f

For me to get this core to work I would need to buy a U shaped pipe and it will take up a lot of room in an already crammed engine bay
 
In regards to your earlier comment hitting anything above 120 degrees only really occurs when the nav is under hard acceleration. The inlet side will only rise slightly, say if I was pulling 300rpm in 4th gear under hard acceleration the turbo side would be around 120 - 140 and the inlet side would hover between 80 - 90 degrees. Once cruising speed is obtained they drop pretty rapidly and the inlet side is 10 - 15 cooler than the turbo side. I havnt tried crusing at 110 - 120 yet but I imagine the difference would be no greater than 25 - 30 degrees with turbo side being around 90 - 100 and inlet side being 75 - 85
 
Still getting shit results from the stock I/C, ordered a diferent core from frozen boost last night as it would have been too hard to plumb up the current one I have. Ill sell it for $50 if anyone wants it cheap?
 

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