!@#$ horay ( tentatively)

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Bryan Adams knows what I am talkn about

Being the third day of ecstatic driving since the removalof the paint under the earth termination lugs AND taking into account the idea from the contributers above that the ' Learning' function is a reasonably subtle art I feel pretty confident in making the call that the earth was the issue and for my ute this issue has been put to bed.

Unfortunately I am unable to come close to conveying the quiet joy, deep satisfaction and great pleasure that comes with having a ute that drives like it's enjoying itself and practically begs to go harder. Just f****n beautiful.

And thanks to Aussie Frontier I now need not bang my head against the Nissan elbunkero in an amusing ( to some ) futile ( lets face it ) attempt at furthering the broader knowledge of its customers. Because as the middle ages churchmen were only too well aware knowledge is power and the likes of you and me should never be entrusted with the secrets of the universe as any meaning life may have had would almost certainly be gone in a puff of cosmic dust. Viva la ignorance, superstition and serfdom.
 
Good to hear it's working fine now.

Just on the O2 sensors in the diesel ... our diesels actually use coolant temperature to determine whether it's warm enough or not (for example, glow plug relays are shut off when coolant temp rises to 85C). The O2 sensors are used to judge when to squirt diesel into the exhaust stroke (4cyl) or fire the 7th injector (6cyl) for the DPF/CAT.

They're also used to monitor the fluctuations deliberately introduced by the ECU in the fuelling. The ECU actually does this to make sure the O2 sensor (in the manual it's referred to as a Heated Oxygen Sensor, HO2S) is working. A failure of the HO2S in a non-DPF car should bring on the CEL, but in a DPF-fitted diesel it should invoke limp mode because there may be a failure in the DPF.
 
Ok so the ecu deliberately introduces an anomaly to test that its sensors are operating correctly ? And it is the o2 sensors that determine fuel timing based on the operating temp? And just to clarify -I believe the manuals do not run a DPF ? If not why not. What is it about auto's that entail dirtier emissions ?
 
The ECU does introduce the anomaly to test its sensors. I suspect that it also ensures that all of the sensors are "working approximately as expected". If the MAFS is out, the fuel mix will be wrong and the HO2S will provide a different result to expected. Same for the boost sensor, fuel rail pressure sensor ... so it COULD be used to make sure that ALL of these are operating within a reasonable range.

The O2 sensor won't have a thing to do with fuel timing, that's the job of the Crank Angle Sensor (CAS). Fuel mixture might be modified based on the coolant temperature (ir a little extra fuel) just as the glow plugs are left on until the coolant reaches 85C.

Yes, the manuals never had a DPF. The DPF actually performs two roles - it's a diesel particulate filter, and it's a catalytic converter. The manuals only had the CAT. They might have done this because in the manual, the vehicle is more sensitive to low-rpm fluctuations, whereas the auto is much less sensitive due to the fluid drive (torque converter).

I've a feeling that the DPF was something of an experiment in the utility market. They reworked the tuning so they don't need it now, but I've seen 2012 D40s that puff smoke on takeoff - and despite mine approaching 100,000km it is still clean even under hard acceleration (so I'm told). At least the inside of my exhaust is still clean (except for some water staining, but then I've had some fun in rivers!).
 
that's extrordinary that you dont lay down a cloud of soot under load. I mean this is a vehicle that can pull mid to high 8's around town -but I cant bring myself to look in the mirror at night going uphill with a car following. If I were running petrol the cops would put if off the road.

But as for sensors they are clearly critical little pieces of bling. Is there any maintenace routine required of them. I;ve seen posts talking about cleaning MAFs I think
 
The MAFS is about the only thing that you might consider doing anything with. It's in the airstream just outside the air filter and is relatively easy to get to, plus it does fill up with muck that the air filter doesn't remove from the incoming air. It makes it a prime candidate for someone with a little DIY-ability to get in and fix it and it's actually quite an important sensor. The rest of them are pretty much untouchable (from an "easy to do" point of view).
 

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