d40 ecu re-set learning mode

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pan-1

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hi im new to this forum =)
i would like to know how to put my d40 into learn mode i have taken the neg batt terminal of to reset no joy in curing teh problem! i did the learn mode before turn the key for 3 seconds pump the throttle etc i have fogoten how the prcedure !!!! it stopped it going into limp mode when i stop at junctions stopped the engine from sounding so rattly etc but i then put a tuning box on which has made it go into limp mode all the time again !

any help much appreciated peter
 
Welcome to the forum, Peter!

When you take the battery lead off, you should press the brakes to consume the remaining power in the system - the ECU will retain a small charge for up to half an hour otherwise. Pressing the brakes forces that charge to dissipate through the brake lights.

If that doesn't work then the ECU is writing the information to non-volatile memory and we've all got it wrong. I suppose it's possible that Nissan also made some changes so that we HAVE to use the reset procedure - which is here:

Original post: Exhaust mod with DPF page 2 post 27081

Modifications to refine procedure are in bold.

D40 ECU RESET PROCEDURE
To carry out the reset do the following:

Warm up the vehicle to normal operating temperature then turn the vehicle off.

Turn ignition on so all dash lights come on.

Wait 3 seconds.

PUMP accelerator pedal 5 times within 5 seconds....

With foot now OFF accelerator wait 7 seconds...

After 7 seconds press and hold down accelerator pedal for 10 seconds...

After 10 seconds the Engine Management Light will start to flash, at this point remove foot from accelerator.

The Nav is now in diagnostics mode, so let the EML flash for a bit. Then press and hold the accelerator pedal down for more than 10 seconds - this will then reset ECU and fuel pump etc and put them into learning mode.

Holding the accelerator for that long ends the procedure.

From D40 Fuel Economy page 26 post 36741:
DO NOT TURN THE IGNITION OFF. Take the vehicle for a nice gentle drive, go through all the gears and then shut the vehicle down to finish the learning process.

NOTE: When the EML light is flashing, this is listing possible fault codes... so if you know how to read the fault codes or know the sequences then you can figure out any possible faults with your Nav with out getting the dealer to do it!! :D

From D40 Fuel Economy page 26 post 36627:
Seeing 1 set of 10 slow flashes followed by 3 sets of 10 flashes fast means there are no faults found or stored.
 
Be careful with learning mode, the ECU uses fuzzy logic to attempt to predict driving habits. If you tow anything while it is in learning mode you will give your unit false paramaters and will cause limp mode to occur. I had this issue as my ECU was basically assuming i needed a belly full of juice everytime i was going to accelerate as i towed whilest in learning mode. Removing the negative lead is the way to go as it will default all settings back to factory settings.
 
I should have added that advice, thanks for that reminder. I'll go do that now - no towing while the ECU is learning, and better yet, unload the tub too - and NO SUMO WRASSLERS IN THE CABIN. The lighter the vehicle, the less fuel you'll need, and she'll learn that. When the learnin's finished you can pick up the pace, throw on the weight, hook up the van, whatever.

When is the learning done? When you shut it down after driving it nice and gentle. Turning the vehicle OFF saves the process in the ECU.
 
Actually the ECU is always learning and it actually starts to average out your habits.
By taking the 12v supply off the ECU it basically looses everything in "Volatile" memory.When you first return power it relies on the firmware of the ECU to reload the basic parameters. From that point on it starts to "Learn" results.
 
Yeah, but if the first thing it learns is that diesel is plentiful and must be guzzled like a cold beer in the Simpson Desert, then you're starting behind the 8-ball. Things might improve, but starting from a more economical position is probably better on the pocket.

I don't know how that affects performance. If two identical vehicles with identical loads reset their ECUs, drive at the same rate and measure economy and find it the same, then they reset again and one goes hard and the other not, which one is going to have more POWER (not considering economy at the moment)?

Do you think an ECU reset can affect the actual power output of the vehicle?
 
Totally agree so doing it warm in the case of the diesel is a damm good idea.
The ECU has a preloaded set of parameters that will have the engine run at baseline specs. Making it relearn your driving style is a good idea and I know I do mine every few months and the difference is noticeable as far as economy goes. Especially going from summer to winter.
The power from the engine is directly from the ECU so if the ECU is using bad data then your fuel could be up and your power down. There is a fine line between lean and powerful and lean and dangerous. The ECU will try to bring the fuel levels back just enough so you in theory get best power for fuel used without going anywhere near detonating the engine.Yes a remapping will give you better figures but manufacturers generally run a very safe mapping so its good for wherever you are.
If you have ever watched a Top Fuel team they mix their fuel for that time. Atmospheric pressures Temps , Air Density etc all play a part in the perfect tune.A car tuned in Sydney will run rough in Canberra.
Now the ECU tries to use the information it receives from sensors to make the most of the data it has to deliver the best it can as far as power and economy.
Given time the ECU will relearn your new location but a reboot is the fastest and best way as far as the pocket goes.
 
the ECU learning on the diesel is a bit different from the petrol.

they use an atmo pressure sensor anyway and doesn't need to learn it.
main thing it learns is injection pump pressure curve (and i think throttle position (idle) as well).
 
thanks fro the replys guys not been on here for a few days with xmas will have ago at sorting it out tomorow the info given is just what i was looking for :rock:
 
Guys,

I been having issue with my ECU too. If the ecu was set to "re-learn" when the engine is cold what would some of the issues be?

And why would it limp mode all the time if I did? Would the ecu eventually sort things out or could it lead to ongoing issues?

Trouble shooting is a biatch!!
 
Luke I think the ECU will monitor the engine temperature (coolant) and should accommodate for that. In our diesels, it holds the glow plugs on until a certain temperature is reached, as well as handling the cooling fan differently.

I do think though that you should do the reset when the engine is warm, so that it's ready to go for that first gentle drive afterwards.

If you're constantly in limp mode the best thing to do is find out what DTC the ECU is presenting - to go into limp mode, the ECU must have found something wrong. nissan can read this, and so can anyone with a ScanGauge or a BlueTooth OBD port tool like Torque.
 
Luke I think the ECU will monitor the engine temperature (coolant) and should accommodate for that. In our diesels, it holds the glow plugs on until a certain temperature is reached, as well as handling the cooling fan differently.

I do think though that you should do the reset when the engine is warm, so that it's ready to go for that first gentle drive afterwards.

If you're constantly in limp mode the best thing to do is find out what DTC the ECU is presenting - to go into limp mode, the ECU must have found something wrong. nissan can read this, and so can anyone with a ScanGauge or a BlueTooth OBD port tool like Torque.

Which is the best Bluetooth OBD suitable for an iphone please
 
As far as I'm aware, Iphones are pretty picky on what bluetooth obd devices they will connect to. I have seen mentioned previously (can't recall if it was this forum or sonewhere else) that a Iphone users were having to use a wifi obd adaptor...
 
I bought a cheapy and it wouldn't work, so I went to Jay Car and bought a "good quality" one and still no luck. I'll go and talk talk to J car and see what I,ve done wrong.
 
I'm not sure how iPhones connect (sorry guys, just don't like Apple so I don't have one). However, surely they'd at least SEE the adapter?

Try this: turn on car (ignition on, engine running). Turn on iPhone, go to Settings, tap Bluetooth. The iPhone should at least SEE the adapter transmitting (it will have "OBD" in the name, I've tried 3 different adapters and they all have that). If you see it, you could try pairing with it (try '0000' if it asks for a PIN) - only after pairing will it work with any software, but I am not sure the iPhone will pair with the adapter.

It certainly works with Android and Windows, so if you can't pair with your iPhone and have a Windows laptop around, try pairing with that?
 
iPhones won't work with Bluetooth ODB2 connectors. The way Apple controls the Bluetooth communications stack blocks the comms.

Get one that is WiFi - and it'll work..

Also, TORQUE is not available on the iOS platform. I use ODB Fusion. It's quick, works great on any Apple product and gives you most of what you are wanting to see.
 

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