good write up bosshog, with the O2 sensor,if there is a slight build up of soot or anyhting on them soak the end in vinegar overnight to clean it and use the spacer, have seen one improve with it. lucky mine doesnt have it.
DPF and Cat Deletion in a D40 Series 2 and 3 Diesel Auto – No White Smoke
- Thread starter Bosshog
- Start date
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I just had an evil idea.
The sensor is looking for the presence of oxygen, right? If it detects any, it makes the ECM squirt some more diesel in.
Why not paint the end of the sensor in heat-proof paint? Oxygen won't be detected but the heat will.
The sensor is looking for the presence of oxygen, right? If it detects any, it makes the ECM squirt some more diesel in.
Why not paint the end of the sensor in heat-proof paint? Oxygen won't be detected but the heat will.
I have got my 3" system back in 3" dump with cat and DPF delete as soon as I got it all back in I took the car for a drive with the O2 sensor disconnected started to blow white smoke within 1km pulled over and reconnected the O2 sensor and did a ECU reset and disconnected the 3 pin connector under the bonnet no white smoke since done about 300km, waiting to get a cheat bung off Chip it to see if I can get rid of the light on the dash! Heaps more power with the 3" system tho love it!
Hey Guys
I have been reading as much as I can about this DPF and the things you can do to fix the problem on this site from as many people as I can and I'm getting quite confused about most of the stuff you guys are going on about and trying to keep up with all the changes you have done.
I have a simple question have any of you guys forked out and paid for the Chipit RACE PIPE, EGR Blanking plate and the Chip they provide? This is about as far I want to go with my car but I'm yet to find or have a simple conversation with anybody that has done just that and what result they got on fuel economy? I have a D40 Auto Dual cab with 40'000klm and have experianced once at approx 25'000klm the DPF light come on my dash. I drove as per manual 8OKLM an hour and light went out. I know for approx 22 days I drove approx 4 klm down the road and back again and this is what caused the light to come on becauce the car was just not getting hot enough. I would like to buy what ChipIt offers but would like to talk or email direct with someone that has done just that from ChipIt. The only other question I have is the warranty from Nissan if I fit the Race Pipe, EGR Blanking plate and chip.
Please help me decide to spend some money.
Bosshog and Westy350 why are you guys mucking around with this spacing of the sensor and all the stuff you are going on about when you can get what I would consider the right thing from ChipIt. I'm sorry I just don't understand why you are going to all this trouble.
Thanks in advance 71DJP
I have been reading as much as I can about this DPF and the things you can do to fix the problem on this site from as many people as I can and I'm getting quite confused about most of the stuff you guys are going on about and trying to keep up with all the changes you have done.
I have a simple question have any of you guys forked out and paid for the Chipit RACE PIPE, EGR Blanking plate and the Chip they provide? This is about as far I want to go with my car but I'm yet to find or have a simple conversation with anybody that has done just that and what result they got on fuel economy? I have a D40 Auto Dual cab with 40'000klm and have experianced once at approx 25'000klm the DPF light come on my dash. I drove as per manual 8OKLM an hour and light went out. I know for approx 22 days I drove approx 4 klm down the road and back again and this is what caused the light to come on becauce the car was just not getting hot enough. I would like to buy what ChipIt offers but would like to talk or email direct with someone that has done just that from ChipIt. The only other question I have is the warranty from Nissan if I fit the Race Pipe, EGR Blanking plate and chip.
Please help me decide to spend some money.
Bosshog and Westy350 why are you guys mucking around with this spacing of the sensor and all the stuff you are going on about when you can get what I would consider the right thing from ChipIt. I'm sorry I just don't understand why you are going to all this trouble.
Thanks in advance 71DJP
That bung should fix it (I hope)
Mate if you get the EGR blanking plate and the DPF delete from chip it witch I have you will have no problems if thats all you change, the reson i'm trying to put the after market dump and cat in is to get a bit more power but you have the problem with the white smoke! So if all you want to do it DPF delete and blanking plate I would say go for it! as for fuel economy you will save at least 1lphk more depending on how you drive, as for warrenty I would say don't stress about it you can put it back to stock if something goes really bad anyways up to you tho! goodluck!
DJP, I completely agree with what Westy said. Make sure you keep the DPF and dump pipe (if you also remove that)!!!
I have a delete pipe that I got made up because Chip It were not doing them then - so I can recommend installing one of their delete pipes. They work trouble free.
EGR blank - buy their blanking plate by all means but I made my own in 10 mins and it took another 10 minutes to install it.
I also installed a Chip It chip about a month ago. I had been using a Tunit chip since the vehicle was new. Chip Its chip differs from all others as it is fully customisable and tunes can be uploaded in real time. You can get and load tunes that enhance fuel economy or turn your D40 into an animal (which is what I have done).
I am more than happy to talk to you about what I have done to my D40 regarding the DPF delete, chips, exhaust etc etc. Just PM me your mobile number.
Gus
I have a delete pipe that I got made up because Chip It were not doing them then - so I can recommend installing one of their delete pipes. They work trouble free.
EGR blank - buy their blanking plate by all means but I made my own in 10 mins and it took another 10 minutes to install it.
I also installed a Chip It chip about a month ago. I had been using a Tunit chip since the vehicle was new. Chip Its chip differs from all others as it is fully customisable and tunes can be uploaded in real time. You can get and load tunes that enhance fuel economy or turn your D40 into an animal (which is what I have done).
I am more than happy to talk to you about what I have done to my D40 regarding the DPF delete, chips, exhaust etc etc. Just PM me your mobile number.
Gus
Thanyou very much guys you have been very helpfull. I now understand whay you have both done what you have done or are still playing around with. Gus/Bosshog I will take you up on the phone call and will PM you soon maybe next week. Just a quick one have you guys had a look at Taipan Exhaust Taipan XP 4WD Diesel Performance Exhaust Upgrades - Australian Owned - Performance that Bites I think they do the dump pipe? my Father has a manual D40 with one of Taipans full systems from Turbo back (very expensive though) and my Dad also runs a DP Chip? Personally I don't like the DP Chip (or the price of them).
Just on another note I have my car booked in for 40K service and hopfully some warranty work. My timing chain I have noticed is a little nosiy and Nissan have said they will replace it, I also have a vibration through the whole car at approx 1700 to 1800 revs in 5th gear (auto) under load at 80klm an hour. The car is also shuddering at idle in drive or reverse when I take my foot of the brake and let the car move forward under idle. The foreman who took it for a run seems to think it is the Fual pump or injectors. Again he said they may change all under warranty after they hook up the computer and run the car and look for any errors.
Anyway once again thanks to both Bosshog and Westy350
Just on another note I have my car booked in for 40K service and hopfully some warranty work. My timing chain I have noticed is a little nosiy and Nissan have said they will replace it, I also have a vibration through the whole car at approx 1700 to 1800 revs in 5th gear (auto) under load at 80klm an hour. The car is also shuddering at idle in drive or reverse when I take my foot of the brake and let the car move forward under idle. The foreman who took it for a run seems to think it is the Fual pump or injectors. Again he said they may change all under warranty after they hook up the computer and run the car and look for any errors.
Anyway once again thanks to both Bosshog and Westy350
Have them check the torque converter.
At 75-80km/h, the gearbox is trying to activate the torque converter clutch so that it can lock the drive train together (improves economy, this is a good thing). However, the clutch isn't always perfect and can do this - creates a vibration. Do the same speed with overdrive turned OFF and the vibration should be gone - if that's the case, your torque converter is definitely in need of replacement. Nissan know about this, and it is a warranty thing.
Jason you're not wrong both weigh a virtual tonne!!
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I am runing a 3"exhaust system with the DPF removed and the oxygen sensor spaced out. Ran fine for a couple of weeks then the DPF light came on and won't reset. I have disconnected the pressure switch to stop the DPF burn. The motor is running fine no white smoke with the pressure SW disconnected but the CEL light and DPF lights are on. Has anyone got any suggestions?
Liza
I suggest plugging back in the pressure switch which will extinguish the CEL and allow the ECU to once again control the DPF regen cycle. Then take it for a good hard run so that the ECU can complete a regen.
If that doesn't work your D40 will eventually go into limp mode and Nissan will need to reset your ECU unfortunately.
The spacing out of the O2 sensor is not a perfect science. The ECU varies the amount of diesel its squirts into the exhaust and then looks for the required reading from the O2 sensor. In my case, I have to clean out the carbon build up around the hole I drilled in the spacer every few weeks to ensure the O2 sensor gets the required air flow.
Many would argue its simply easier to leave the factory cat and dump pipe in place as this results in no problems with the DPF delete. But for me I like the challenge.
Good luck.
BH
I suggest plugging back in the pressure switch which will extinguish the CEL and allow the ECU to once again control the DPF regen cycle. Then take it for a good hard run so that the ECU can complete a regen.
If that doesn't work your D40 will eventually go into limp mode and Nissan will need to reset your ECU unfortunately.
The spacing out of the O2 sensor is not a perfect science. The ECU varies the amount of diesel its squirts into the exhaust and then looks for the required reading from the O2 sensor. In my case, I have to clean out the carbon build up around the hole I drilled in the spacer every few weeks to ensure the O2 sensor gets the required air flow.
Many would argue its simply easier to leave the factory cat and dump pipe in place as this results in no problems with the DPF delete. But for me I like the challenge.
Good luck.
BH
OK I have made more DPF delete improvements for those following along at home.
If I was doing it again from scratch, I'd completely remove the two pressure sensors probes and associated piping from the delete pipe. They are not needed and just get in the damn way! Keep them of course so when you sell the ute you can put it all back.
All you need to do attached the rubber tubing to each end of the piping that feeds back to the sensor under the bonnet. You can see what I have done below. Because the piping is not attached to the side of DPF they hang in the breeze and rattle at idle and hence the corregated split tubing. I am thinking next I'll just unscrew the piping completely and fill the two holes in the delete pipe with weld.
Another thing to be careful with is the wiring for the front temp sensor probe. With the DPF removed it too hangs in the breeze under the front drive shaft and is pelted by stones thrown up from the passenger front wheel. I learnt the hard way and had to replace it as the stones stripped the wiring completely off. The new one is wrapped in insulation tape and covered with corregated split tubing.
BH
If I was doing it again from scratch, I'd completely remove the two pressure sensors probes and associated piping from the delete pipe. They are not needed and just get in the damn way! Keep them of course so when you sell the ute you can put it all back.
All you need to do attached the rubber tubing to each end of the piping that feeds back to the sensor under the bonnet. You can see what I have done below. Because the piping is not attached to the side of DPF they hang in the breeze and rattle at idle and hence the corregated split tubing. I am thinking next I'll just unscrew the piping completely and fill the two holes in the delete pipe with weld.
Another thing to be careful with is the wiring for the front temp sensor probe. With the DPF removed it too hangs in the breeze under the front drive shaft and is pelted by stones thrown up from the passenger front wheel. I learnt the hard way and had to replace it as the stones stripped the wiring completely off. The new one is wrapped in insulation tape and covered with corregated split tubing.
BH
Mal
I have been lucky I guess - no issues BUT others not so. My MAF sensor was playing up before it blew up and that caused some issues which tricked me to thinking the problem was the cat/DPF delete.
It is a rough science. PM me your mobile number if you want to talk it over.
Gus
I have been lucky I guess - no issues BUT others not so. My MAF sensor was playing up before it blew up and that caused some issues which tricked me to thinking the problem was the cat/DPF delete.
It is a rough science. PM me your mobile number if you want to talk it over.
Gus
Hey Gus
What made you think that? How did you know your MAF sensor was playing up? I have spoken to a friend about what you have done and he said it should work. We are essentially just trying to trick the ECU into reading the pressure between the new single hose?
Mal
What made you think that? How did you know your MAF sensor was playing up? I have spoken to a friend about what you have done and he said it should work. We are essentially just trying to trick the ECU into reading the pressure between the new single hose?
Mal
Mal
read this post re my MAF sensor.
Local Nissan dealer told me to join the ends of the tubing to ensure the same pressure.
read this post re my MAF sensor.
Local Nissan dealer told me to join the ends of the tubing to ensure the same pressure.
