EGR pipe removal YD25

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dilmah

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So today I got bored and though stuff it, lets see how much of the EGR crap I can remove. Now one of the first mods I did was the EGR block, back when the ute only had 40000K on it. As most of you know the turbo spools slightly earlier, on my particular model from around the 1500 - 1600rpm mark as opposed to 1800rpm and goes a long way to improving fuel economy and a general clean engine.

There are a number of places where people have placed the blocking plate but the most common one would be before the EGR tube which is infront of the timing chain cover.

About 2 weeks ago I did what was called the "Gas Jet mod" which is really removing the EGR piping from the inlet phlemun. This mod alone reduces the restriction in the inlet and further alows the turbo to spool quicker.

Now to the removal of the EGR piping!
 
Firstly, remove the cranking battery, it makes working a hell of a lot easier.

Now start unbolting the EGR tube, it is the one infront of the timing chain and it will have 2 black hoses comming off it. These bolts will need a 14mm socket, there are 4 of them. There is a bolt holding the EGR tube to a bracket, remove it using a 12mm socket. I then unbolted the elbow which runs into the EGR solenoid, using a 12mm socket. Reusing an exhaust gasket and putting a blanking plate ove the solenoid bolt it back up using the bolt that you just removed. it should look something like this
 

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Since I alread had the turbo end of the tube blocked I just replaced the blanking plate and bolted it up using some spare 10mm bolts I had lying in the shed
 

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No you can remove more of the turbo side piping but the bolts are absolute shithouse to get to and are very tight. I couldnt be arsed as my main goal of this removal was free up some space to fit a larger battery and some more space infron of the engine.

Now you will need to run a length of hose to connect the two pieces you removed earlier. I havn't got a pic of this but will popst one at a later date.

EGR removed
 

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If you are going to do this mod, have the blanking plates ready and a length of 3/4" pipe otherwise you will loose coolant when you remove the black piping. Pretty easy mod, all up it took less than 2 hours although I wasnt rushing. Feel free to ask questions
 
Well done , i have the same vehicle and was thinking of doing this basically just for the sake of it, iv alreadydone the EGR mod, so the pipe is pretty much useless now.
 
The only thing to keep in mind is bending those plates and blowing exhaust out one side and boost out the other if they warp enough to not seal anymore.... The way to overcome this would be cut the cast ends off the standard egr pipe and use them over the plates as they would be a lot stronger than a thin piece of stainless... Alternatively, get some thicker stainless plate to put on there, otherwise, great write up...
 
I don't see the nav boosting hard enough to bend 4mm steel. ill see how it goes for the next few weeks
 
No worries, ill take some more photos and post them up tomorrow now that its a sticky
 
Is the pipe where the 2 black rubber go to filled with coolant or does the coolant flow around the pipe? Just wondering how the egr tube works.. Thanks
 
The coolant flows around the pipe, its sort of like a mini W2A intercooler. It is used to cool the exhaust gases down before they are reintroduced into the intake phelumn.
 
As promised a few pics of the bypass pipe for the coolant to flow to the heater core. I lost one of the clips for my airbox so I replaced it with a 2"g clamp from Bunnings, lucky it only cost me $8.

Pipe is 3/"or 19mm and uses the factory clamps. I might replace them with worm clamps as they are bastards to take off.
 

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How did you go with the loss of boost since removing the egr feed tube in the intake manifold? I did mine today, but haven't lost any boost, it does seem to spool quicker again though...
 
Before I removed the EGR pipe I changed my boost controller to a turbo smart one, was only getting 14 - 15 psi max with the old generic when I can run up to 22psi with my setup. Yes it did spool quicker but with the turbo smart wound all the way up I can make 14psi under full load in 4th up a hill. There must be another problem somewhere as to why I'm not making decent boost. its at the point where I'm considering taking it to a specialist.
 
Seems a bit weird... I haven't got a chip, but with the manual boost controller (cheap eBay job) on as low as it can go I'm getting nearly 20psi peak when I stand on it... Getting a constant 18psi at around 2500rpm just accelerating normally... How's your maf sensor look, fairly clean?
 
Havnt checked it. Will pull it out tomoz and clean it and the air filter. Another option is to run the boost T straight off the intercooler instead of the boost controller line, this may be why I'm getting low readings.
 

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