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  #11  
Old 22-08-2014, 10:43 PM
nathand22 nathand22 is offline
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This thread could end up being a valuable tool for stacks of YD25 owners.

A good write up so admin can "STICKY" it is really needed for this job.

I can imagine a more then a few want to try it but it would seem a very daunting task.
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  #12  
Old 23-08-2014, 01:30 AM
myoldhk myoldhk is online now
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Its not hard, its time consuming and tools are required.
2008 ST-X D40
Ok to start off with I bought the Engines Australia kit duel row.
I researched kits and prices
Nissan – Not going to bother
Engines Australia - single row = $650 (no vacuum pump sprocket and if its stuffed, its a pump) - Double row $1200 (with vacuum pump sprocket and new shaft)
YD25.com – Double row only $1600 (vacuum pump sprocket to suit old shaft)
Kit was good price but the guides are shit and sloppy when in place (2-3mm too much play IMO). My guides were in fairly good condition so I kept some and replaced the tension guides.
It was the vacuum pump sprocket a little worn and the chain had stretched but no other real wear in my engine
I used two main parts of information
Service manual
http://www.navara.asia/showthread.php?t=3935
Duplex chain guide - Written by Richard Stock, with the help of Darren Ball
http://www.nissan-navara.net/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=46729
Note: Nissan-navara.net is a good source of info, some don’t like other people’s opinion and can be very rude!
Tools
The main tools required were,
socket kit metric 10 -12 -14 mm mainly, but full kit required to 24mm (3/4 impact for crank bolt)
Spanner kit metric
Torx and E-torx kits
Prybar kit
Gear remover and/or crank puller (I used a large 3 leg puller for all)
Breaker Bar it says large in guide, add 2-3m of pipe for crank (ITS TIGHT)
And a made a crank tool to stop it from spinning. Steel bar and 2 H/D BOLTS
Torque wrench to tighten everything to spec. (YES THE BOLTS WILL SNAP IF NOT DONE)
6mm drill bit or I used 6mm phillips head bit for my drill
Wire coat hanger (most are about 3-4mm)

Last edited by myoldhk; 31-08-2014 at 02:06 AM.
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  #13  
Old 23-08-2014, 01:39 AM
myoldhk myoldhk is online now
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My foot is size 13
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  #14  
Old 23-08-2014, 01:54 AM
myoldhk myoldhk is online now
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I followed most of the guide I downloaded, Used the manual to understand were things are and all torque settings.
1. strip engine cover, drain coolant and oil
2. remove radiator shroud and fans then radiator (can do without but room is easier) and hoses (I wired up AC radiator and cover if want to)
3. remove belts and pully’s etc
4. undo throttle body keep gasket safe
5. undo EGR Drivers side and all brackets, leave bolted to exhaust and just bend out of way.
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  #15  
Old 23-08-2014, 01:56 AM
myoldhk myoldhk is online now
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This will take a while, im uploading picks from phone and typing on computer
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  #16  
Old 23-08-2014, 02:01 AM
myoldhk myoldhk is online now
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6. Remove secondary timing cover/ inspection cover
7. loosen crank bolt the move to top dead center. Picture in guide will show markings
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  #17  
Old 23-08-2014, 02:02 AM
myoldhk myoldhk is online now
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Its very tight, breaker bar tool and 3/4 impact socket
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Last edited by myoldhk; 31-08-2014 at 02:06 AM.
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  #18  
Old 23-08-2014, 02:11 AM
myoldhk myoldhk is online now
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8. Take off crank pully,
9. Undo primary timing case as per guide and donít forget there are 3 bolts from sump before prying 14 bolts all up. (case will crack if not taken out)
10. Spray everything clean with brake cleaner and dry
11. Insert 6mm bit into main gear and Mark the gear below crank longways too. (I didn't)
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  #19  
Old 23-08-2014, 02:15 AM
myoldhk myoldhk is online now
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The coat hanger is to put inbetween the lowest gear so when reinstall of ballencer gear it doesnt go out of wack.
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  #20  
Old 23-08-2014, 02:17 AM
myoldhk myoldhk is online now
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this is when you take many pictures of where all the chain and sprocket marking are at top dead center. mine was as the guide shows and everything was in line. but mark any way.
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