Drivers Door master actuator

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Oldie

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Fremantle WA
Been having trouble with the keyless locking. Will lock but not unlock.
The old actuator has 3 wires but the new one I've just bought has 5 wires.
Is the 3 wire a Nissan part or just an old after market job.
My old gal is a 2003 D22 and I'm not sure if the system was factory or after market.
I can't find anything in the mongrel workshop manual that will help so, does it mean working out which 3 wires of the new actuator are the only ones used.
Cheers
 
I can't recall whether the D22 ever came with factory remote locking, I don't think it did. The old one is probably an aftermarket slave one, I know the one Nissan fitted to mine is because from the factory driver's side door is the only one that operates the central locking.

All they did was fit a slave actuator that locks and unlocks the driver's door, which then locks and unlocks the other 3.

I would say the 3 wire one has an earth, an unlock signal wire and a lock signal wire. They should be different colours with any luck. The 5 wire one you have now is obviously a master because it should have an output wire to send signal to the slave actuators to lock when you press the button, if it was retro fitted to a vehicle that did not have central locking already. Hopefully 3 of the 5 wires are the same colour and it should work correctly...

You can probably google for a basic wiring diagram and hopefully that will show the way they work, bit without knowing brands or where you got it from that's about all I can say... Good luck.
 
Hi Bods
The new actuator is a Mabuchi Master actuator.
I do have a spare Mabuchi slave but it's only 2 wires.
I got them from Jcar.
I'll have to unwrap the insulation to see what colours the original 3 wires are.
Oh what fun hahaha at least I can still use the key to lock/unlock LOL
Cheers
 
Ah fun and games. Might just be a bad connection with the one that's in there at the moment. Let us know how you go anyway...
 
As the old saying goes, measure twice and cut once.
So before I messed around with the actuator, I had a good look at what movement there was. I'll look better next time.
The actuator rod was moving inside the little clamp gizmo even with the grub screw in as tight as it would go.
So I've used the rod clamp from the new actuator kit and it is working fine for now. it's got me stumped but it appears the hole in the clamp has rounded out with constant movement, the bit that clamps onto the door rod is ok.
So if anyone knows where I can buy the metal clamps, I might need a few as spares. Saves me buying a whole new actuator kit hahaha
Cheers
 

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