New to diesels...need help!!

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Dazzza

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Hey All,

Have checked some other posts. I’m hoping you guys could help me. I also read about cleaning the connections etc so will do that also.

My 2009 D40 is going into limp mode occasionally under hard acceleration. Will drive fine if not accelerating hard. Taken to a workshop and the following this has been replaced within 2 days:

- Pressure Relief Valve
- Fuel Relief Valve
- Suction Control Valve
- Fuel filter (genuine)
- Reset procedure done.

Car goes into United Fuel Injection next week to have diagnostics done.

Help!!!

Cheers
Daz
 
does the car exhaust blow alot of black smoke when you hit the throttle hard ?



Not that I’ve personally noticed. However mechanic that installed all of the above reckons so.

I’ve been meticulous with servicing. Every 5k also.

Code coming up after PRV was fuel leak code.

You thinking injectors?


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normally the navaras blow a big puff of smoke when you hit the throttle if you don,t get this theres a chance your engine could be starving of fuel when the throttle is hit hard., this would cause your symtoms. maybe its not the cause but it could be.
 
Have you looked at anything to do with the air side? Checked boost control solenoid for correct operation and checked all hoses for cracks or splits? Excessive smoke points to overfilling (could also be too little intake air for the throttle position). How long since the air filter was replaced?

If you can get one of those odb2 scantools, which one depends on what type of phone you have or can get access to, and install torque, you can check fuel rail pressure, boost pressure, maf rate amongst others. These will give you live data to see what it going on when limp mode occurs. If you have a rail pressure spike or the maf reading is a bit all over the place the ecu will go into limp mode.

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Have you looked at anything to do with the air side? Checked boost control solenoid for correct operation and checked all hoses for cracks or splits? Excessive smoke points to overfilling (could also be too little intake air for the throttle position). How long since the air filter was replaced?

If you can get one of those odb2 scantools, which one depends on what type of phone you have or can get access to, and install torque, you can check fuel rail pressure, boost pressure, maf rate amongst others. These will give you live data to see what it going on when limp mode occurs. If you have a rail pressure spike or the maf reading is a bit all over the place the ecu will go into limp mode.

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Thanks for your reply.
Air filter replaced as per log book. Car is serviced every 5k. Boost solenoid/controller will be my next avenue. I’ll mention it to the guys doing the diagnostics and see what they say.

Appreciate the feed back.


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Sounds to me like air as well. Here's something to try. It's also free (apart from fuel costs).

Take the car for a gentle drive without too many hills in such a way that you recognise the lack of performance without using too much throttle or engine load. It's vital that you don't stress the car right now and still be able to tell if the problem exists.

Return to the starting point and remove the top plastic cover of the engine. You'll find a vac hose that runs across from the vacuum pump on the vehicle's right hand side, this runs over and connects to the boost control solenoid. Remove it from the BCS. Attach it to the top of the actuator.

Now take the car for another drive and drive it along the same route with the same minimalist power. Now is when it's important to NOT back off suddenly. The turbocharger - if it's working properly - is making full boost at all times. A sudden drop in RPM will cause an overboost and this may result in a hose popping off the intercooler or intake manifold (I know, I've popped mine from the intake manifold when trying this).

Put the hoses back to the way they were (vac hose from over engine to BCS, reinstall other hose to actuator).

Was there a difference? Was it remarkable? If so, your BCS is shot. They don't simply fail all the time. They become erratic, they become annoying when they won't misbehave while the mechanic is looking and as soon as he's looking at something else it plays up again. The BCS is like a evil garden gnome.

If the BCS has failed, you have 4 options.

1) Replace it with a genuine item. Yes, absolutely, it WILL fail again because this component was manufactured for Nissan by Evil Gnome Manufacturing Co. However, your car will produce exactly the right amount of boost that it was designed to do, it won't overboost or underboost and your fuel economy will be as it was.

2) Directly connect the vac hose from the pump to the turbo. Dangerous, cheap and potentially catastrophic results. It's include here because it's a possible option.

3) Replace the BCS with a Tillix valve (tillix.com.au). This is what I've done. It's easy to install, but you have to be careful when setting it up - don't let it overboost. Your average boost should be around 16psi (which is lower than the BCS allows for, so the engine is a little down on power) and it will peak at around 21psi. I had mine set to 18.5psi average and it peaked at 24psi and popped the hose off my intake manifold. The fact that I was towing our caravan (who can say "Bathurst 1000"??) along the Putty Rd at the time didn't make it very comfortable, especially seeing the masses of black smoke covering the caravan. Yuck. Reconnect, back the valve off a smidge and it has been fine ever since (yes, we've been back to Bathurst again since then for Challenge Bathurst).

4) There's an alternative to the Tillix valve and I can't remember what it is. I hope someone who does know and remember will come along and let us know what it is.

As above, a bluetooth OBD adapter and an Android phone with the Torque app is very valuable, but since you have an iPhone you may need a different app (and as Boogie points out, the WiFi OBD adapter).
 
4) There's an alternative to the Tillix valve and I can't remember what it is. I hope someone who does know and remember will come along and let us know what it is.

As above, a bluetooth OBD adapter and an Android phone with the Torque app is very valuable, but since you have an iPhone you may need a different app (and as Boogie points out, the WiFi OBD adapter).[/QUOTE]


this was from an earlier post from me!

_http://www.navara.asia/showthread.php?t=34609&page=3
 
4) There's an alternative to the Tillix valve and I can't remember what it is. I hope someone who does know and remember will come along and let us know what it is.

As above, a bluetooth OBD adapter and an Android phone with the Torque app is very valuable, but since you have an iPhone you may need a different app (and as Boogie points out, the WiFi OBD adapter).

Fixed the link from that post

http://www.navara.asia/showthread.php?t=34609&page=3
 
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Ahh I remember that post! Isn't age a wonderful thing. Where is my mouse ... and dammit I've lost the 'any' key, if someone finds it can you mail it back to me?

Seriously, the alternative is a bit more work (the positive pressure actuator) but it should be quite responsive and better still, quite simple and effective. My turbocharger is sitting below a bit of a spaghetti field of 3mm vac hose, with bits going everywhere. I've trimmed the hoses down to a short workable length and it's working well but there's a fair bit of hosework to manage the valve, needle valve and the connection to the charge air hose. It's still a great bit of kit!
 
Ahh I remember that post! Isn't age a wonderful thing. Where is my mouse ... and dammit I've lost the 'any' key, if someone finds it can you mail it back to me?

Seriously, the alternative is a bit more work (the positive pressure actuator) but it should be quite responsive and better still, quite simple and effective. My turbocharger is sitting below a bit of a spaghetti field of 3mm vac hose, with bits going everywhere. I've trimmed the hoses down to a short workable length and it's working well but there's a fair bit of hosework to manage the valve, needle valve and the connection to the charge air hose. It's still a great bit of kit!

Tony, i have a fairly new BCV, just curious if it's still worth replacing it for a Tillix valve. I also tow a van, though nothing as big as yours, and a 5m boat, so i am curious if the Tillix valve gives a better power curve?
 
My van is only 19' and 2.5T. The 5m boat probably gets up towards 2.5T with the trailer.

I don't think you should replace the BCS just yet unless your intention is to move to the Tillix valve and put the BCS away until the Tillix valve fails. Since the Tillix valve is little more than a spring holding a valve closed, it's not going to break in a hurry. Personally I'd give the BCS another chance to fail and then be rid of the thing altogether.

I have two of these things now, you'd think I'd take the time to tear one apart and see what it is that breaks. Oh for some time!
 
So.... car went in for diagnostics at United Fuel Injection. They acknowledged car went into limp mode at high RPM. Could they diagnose why....nope. Apparently BCS is fine and creating the right boost. However this could be periodic correct?

So car is now at a different diesel specialist who has listed a number of issues that could arise without codes being thrown.



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I would expect an overboost condition to cause limp mode, especially under hard acceleration. It makes you wonder what the boost sensor is reading when you put your foot into it. Hopefully the next workshop can figure it out...

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Overboost can cause limp mode and if it's periodic it points straight to a failing BCS.

The problem at high RPM is that every sensor is getting near its maximum input. That means it doesn't take much to trip it up - I don't like using high RPM anyway, and high RPM diagnostics are a bit of a guessing game unless you can get good feedback from the sensors and match them up against each other.

What would be really helpful is to create a graph of the sensor output and see if any of them are going out of spec at some point. Torque can do this, slide the view to a new screen, add a display and choose 'graph'. You can also ask the Torque app to create a CSV file of the output. You can then open it in Excel and create a graph based on multiple inputs and more easily see what things are doing.

Without that information, a lot of what we're doing here is guesswork (admittedly, based on considerable experience with these vehicles across a range of members who do things differently). I'm not a high RPM driver, so I can only surmise at what it might be based on what I know about the car's operation at lower RPM.
 
So A1 Diesel Injection were awesome!! Did a full diagnostic including battery voltage when car running, fuel map and cam sensor/crank sensor overlay graph!! My timing chain is sloppy and the graph shows the mis-alignment.
Tested BCS and no issue. So chain throwing car into limp mode.

So car has gone to Hi-Tech Cylinder Heads who rebuild Nissan engines for DVG 🤣

Full timing chain kit. New gears, double row chains top and bottom, new water pump whilst the work is being done etc...


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Well there you go. Not necessarily a good result, but at least it will be fixed properly...

At least they got it before the chain let go
 
Well there you go. Not necessarily a good result, but at least it will be fixed properly...

At least they got it before the chain let go



I’m definitely thankful that it didn’t snap!!

So strange that United Fuel Injection couldn’t diagnose the problem.


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Last edited:
So new BCS fitted also and ute is running again without hitting limp mode (touch wood).



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