Turbo Solenoid Valve / Connection of vanes

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Shakour

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HI ALL...
So I pulled out the Turbo Solenoid (D40 2007 Auto) this past long weekend, gave it a good spray with Contact Cleaner Inside and out... gave it a blowjob... (with the air compressor) put everything back together as it was... so I thought... ! Took it for a drive, no Boost or Turbo kicking in. Went back home switched the vanes around, now im geeting Boost but if push a bit harder it goes into Vaccum... I know!!
Connected the Vanes (x 3)incorrectly.
Hence the reason why Im here.
Can someone please explain which Vane coming from Where? Is supposed to go into the Solenoid... I have a new one to install next week and wanna get it right and not possibly damage it by connecting it wrong.
cheers in advance..
 
This is how mine looks on 2013 ST

solenoid2_zpsm3ohowll.jpg


Left pipe intake, middle pipe goes to turbo (has a little green filter ?? in the pipe), right hand pipe goes to the engine / vacuum source.

Is this what you were after ?
 
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Thankx kernels..
I'll try that as soon as I get home this pm...
will get back to posting... If same as 2013(mine is 2007) I'm sure it will help others knowing its the same set up.!
Cheers
 
So... I've connected as 'kernels suggestion and which is the way I had connect, BUT.. jist to really make sure? I would like to hear from people with a 2007 D40 as in the pictures supplied.by.'kernels' from what I can see, it looks different mounting angle.
thankx.once again kermel and rest of people ...
 
Yep, that drawing appears to agree with what I've got. Although the picture is the other way round, connector is on the left when standing in front of the car and looking down at the solenoid.
 
If the turbocharger isn't spinning at all (vanes closed) it actually presents a significant obstacle in the intake path and if the engine is revving, it will try to suck air through the turbo causing a vacuum in the air path.

Things to test:

1) Remove the hose from the top of the actuator and put a new piece on. Suck on the other end - does the actuator move? If it does, you might have a vac leak.

2) How are your brakes? If they're not performing as well as they could (this is rare) the vac leak could be inside the brake booster. Not good news.

3) Check all of the vac hoses. They should be very tight fits over the barbs/connectors. The hose shouldn't readily turn on the barb - if it can turn easily, it means the rubber has hardened and is probably leaking vacuum.

If the turbocharger is actually getting vacuum normally, it's possible that it's just not spinning very well. Same thing happened to me - the most mine would boost to was about 5-6psi if I pushed hard, but if I allowed the turbo to build up to it, it could boost normally. This was the bearings in the turbo failing - I've replaced my turbocharger with a Forefront Industries billet-cut unit and am now enjoying quicker spooling = less lag. It isn't much - and it doesn't develop any more boost than the stock unit - but it's nice that it comes on a little earlier.
 
Ok... so I connected vanes according to "lookskyward1" and believe it or not is how I had them connected at first... problem being is that, when I take off at lights, acceleration is normalbut if want get infront or past another car and I squeese the pedal a bit more, it doesnt seem to respond unless I completely release the pedal and give it a fresh squeeze. Hence the reason I am changing solenoid this week. Ive replaced new SCV, new tubing (vanes).checked for leaks..all good. I have also pulled the accelerator pedal apart and given tha a good clean.. Purged 3 times.(liquid molly). Currently new Fuel Filter (nissan)...
if anyone has any further suggestions.
 
I've got a similar problem. I think it's boost spiking in mine and killing the boost, pedal off and on again see's boost return to normal.

Slowly put your foot on the pedal from take off, and feed in the power - and it's ok.

I've tried so many things (new solenoid, new SCV, new earth wiring, pump resets, clean intake, clean fuel system, new fuel filter, clean Intercooler, new boost lines, etc) i've given up and just accepted it as a quirk....

Only other thing to replace is the Pressure Sensor on the Outlet side Intercooler.. But at $300 i'm not keen.

Im actually thinking of putting a manual DAWES VALVE system in for more linear boost. If you've even put a scan guage on and watched it, it's all over the place!
 
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We are on the same page BlackOutlaw..
ive done all those things as well and it is exactly what you explain ... gently put your foot down and progressively and no prbs, BUT if you need that sudden acceleration or tale off... you are NOT guaranteed to get it...
my next to do is gonna be the Pressure Sensor on the intercooler as you said..
$300 or so. DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO TEST PREASSURE SENSOR TO SEE IFIT WORKS PROPERLY ????
cheers
 
FYI... Ebay Item No. 171272556172
I was just looking around in Ebay.. and have seen this previously and as apposed to $280+ for others... it may b worth looking into....
UK stuff is usually a bit cheaper ...
 
Im seeing good boost through my ODB2 app. I get about 22PSI.. But my boost is all over the place on any given day.. I am not 100% certain it is the Pressure Sensor. It could be Turbo Actuator not opening the blades correctly. Vacuum not being correct or even the Pump not supplying enough. So many variables! Hence why I am at teethers end and just accept it.

I helped fix a navara (2007 ST-X) yesterday that had mud and christ knows what else in the airfilter box. We fixed his issue (new filter, boost lines, hot pipe(hole in it) ) and it went like a friggin jet. Mine gets the royal treatment and it's a slug!!

Q... Is yours AUTO TOO?

Sometimes I struggle to get up a hill and need more pedal - other days my car grows 100hp and toodles up it..

This is what I am thinking of putting on http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dawes-Va...218942?hash=item35fd9d6b3e:g:t0sAAOSwpDdVUE~6
 
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Yep... Auto 2007 Spanish...
same here, same days, in the morning as I go to work, it feels like there is an army of dwarfs inside the engine working their butts off, and its flawless. Others days even same day pm ill have the little bastards taki g the arvo off... and I'll be driving a slug nack home...
...this needs further investigation. ..
Come on ALL you NAVARIANS... chip in your thoughts !!!
by the way... ill have a lok at that Dawes valve..
and keep my eyes peeled for further opinions on this..
 
If I come across anything, I'll let you know.

Im guessing some days your car takes off like a rocket from a stop.. And other days it appears to "moan" from the engine bay for a little and then pick-up? It appears to me like in a Petrol engine with Torque Management turned on, it's retarding the timing so you don't blaze the tyres (not that a navara could!). A battery reset will almost certainly cure it, short term. But then it's back again.

I've even thought it could be the amount of times the engine turns over before it fires. On days where mine fires on first turn, I seem to have power. When it takes a few cranks - there is no power (by comparison).

I have also thought it was battery / earth strap based. Again, all proven wrong.

I've been at it for near on 2 years..... So if you stumble in it i'd love to know!
 
I posted a few months back that my own turbocharger was only giving me around 6psi of boost if I pressed the throttle too quickly, but if I eased it up I'd get full boost.

I replaced my turbocharger with a ForeFront Industries unit and my boost behaves normally again.

It's a complete unit - includes actuator - just drop it in and away it goes. The only caveat is that you need to do oil changes every 5,000km to maintain your warranty. I'm halfway to my second oil change since I bought it (about 7500km ago) and it's going very well.

Jamie will look after you - if your turbo is stalling and not bringing up full boost, it may well be worn bearings. My thoughts on this were that I'd replace the turbo before it forced the issue and detonated on me!
 
I posted a few months back that my own turbocharger was only giving me around 6psi of boost if I pressed the throttle too quickly, but if I eased it up I'd get full boost.

I replaced my turbocharger with a ForeFront Industries unit and my boost behaves normally again.

It's a complete unit - includes actuator - just drop it in and away it goes. The only caveat is that you need to do oil changes every 5,000km to maintain your warranty. I'm halfway to my second oil change since I bought it (about 7500km ago) and it's going very well.

Jamie will look after you - if your turbo is stalling and not bringing up full boost, it may well be worn bearings. My thoughts on this were that I'd replace the turbo before it forced the issue and detonated on me!
why 5,000 kms for warranty, good fully synthetic oils will give you at least perfect lubrication for 10,000 kms. nissan schedule is even more extended with oil changes at 15,000 kms (or 1 year ofc). blanked egr adds up on oil lifetime as well.
 
Oldtony... in the case of the Turbos bearings going bad, wouldn't it make some sort of weird noises eg: bearing crackling.. grinding...
ive ran Torque App Pro and I get about 20 / 21 psi which I think its pretty good. Problem is. .. is not every time you need it.
Is it possible for the Turbo to Boost sometimes and others not due to bearing malfunction?
I have a snorkle and I can hear the Turbo spool and whistle everytime I give it pedal... I mostly listen to it to verify its kicking in all right. ..
your thoughts. ..
 
By the way... Oldtony how much did the turbo set you back from Forefront Industries?and was there anything else that needs to be purchased to do the complete replacement? does it need calibration or special attention or tools to install?
cheers
 
The requirement for 5K oil changes is Forefront Industries, you'd have to ask them why. My EGR is blocked but although I drive at sedate speeds, towing 2.5T around the place is anything but gentle!

The bearings are journal bearings - brass sleeves. You'll see the effect of worn bearings if you lift the front of your lawn mower and spin the wheel (by hand or with the garden hose). The wheel gets to a certain RPM and as the shaft starts to wobble, it stalls. If it can get past that, it will spin nicely (and better if there's oil involved to help cushion the movement).

Forefront charged me around the $800 mark (and he's pretty fair on shipping costs). I had my mechanic install it for me, but I would assume new gaskets, O-rings for the oil and water lines and a good set of tools to remove the bolts from the exhaust manifold side.
 
I kinda do t have $800 laying around so... is it possible to put a bearing and seal kit of some sort through the turbo as a cheaper alternative. Rebuild it?
if is... does anyone have any suggestions as to where, write ups and how much?
Cheers. ..
 

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