Hi.
My boost reading through the app is generally 5-10 psi.
Under acceleration and 3k+ revs it reaches 20 psi and then I have the sudden vacuum on the meter.
No black smoke (at least nothing so bad I could see any dark clouds through my back mirror).
I would expect the pressure to build to 20...
Hi all.
Would I need to measure them first, or is there a definite way to say what size is OK by the model year?
2.5 Diesel YD25 E3
How about the back? D40 with discs in the back is the same as R51 pathfinders?
How about pads? Blindly going for it or are there also options with spring both...
Hi. There is so many topisc / answers "maybe boost is low" or "check the solenoid"... Would that mean there is no boost sensor that we could check using ODBII scanner?
I am suprised with the "regular cleanup" requirement. YD25 ECU apparently does not throw error and does not need the hole. 3.0 may be different. I had it blocked with a plate with a hole in it for the sensor in 2.0 Ford mondeo and for 3 years there was no engine code, so only experience I have...
The engines came as Euro 3, 4, 5 (5 is I guess the 140kW).
Some major changes were about 2010 too. I would say it wouldn't as e.g. injectors are different. Older ECU could accept them or not. As a minimum you would probably need the older engine with ECU but the wiring can be different too.
E3...
It sounded like a bad metallic rattle. I was sure it is the timing chain rubbing against the casing and it was indeed very loose. I got the timing kit, bit of drama removing the harmonic balancer (850Nm electric impact wrench did the job, 200 Nm did not, 400Nm no idea - it did not fit).
After...
Good pick.
Re timing chains - absolutely - I have all the parts waiting to put them in.
I just saw the damage on the balance shafts on the job of replacing the timing. The whole timing sequence will be replaced.
The main question because of new circumstances is: can I get away by doing only the...
Yes - it has all fallen apart. I found one broken tooth just resting on a tensioner so it was flying all over the place. I removed the C clip hoping i could just get rid of that toothless gear, but no luck - it is secured by the bolt which looks impossible to remove until the whole unit comes off.
Thanks. That's the idea :)
So I was thinking about removing the cog wheel that drives it.
This will get out of time, but hence I would probably need to a) get rid of it totally b) replace - it will probably be out of time anyways and there must be a way to time it. There was something posted...
Hi,
Looks like you know stuff about balance shaft removal.
My front scissor gear on the balance gear lost half of it's teeth and springs and pins are probably gone.
I can spin it freely, no spring tensoin. No locking at 2-3 teeth turn distance travel.
My car is stuck on the parking lot and my...
Looks like it is scisor gear, part of idler gear. I found the video below.
There is no results when looking for parts. Is there any other name for it? Looks like it comes only as used whole units. Looks like a big job.
Would I need to undo the subframe? What if I just removed the big gear that...
Thanks. Based on your information, I decided to look at the bottom chain too. Tensioner is out by around 10mm so quite stretched too.
That means I got the balancer out! :)
My 1/2 inch bar with a pipe on it was bending by about 15 degrees. It would snap before it goes. Btw the only way to lock...